Blade Designs That Do Well With The SPYDEREDGE

[JD Spydo]

Wiley does the SE conversions; good price and quality.

Have you or anyone here that is well known here on BF ever had any blades done by them? Because like I said earlier I want to talk to someone that has dealt with them first hand before I go putting one in the mail to them or recommending them to anyone I know. IF they are an honest, reputable company that does high quality work I might just give them a try. I would love to have one of those older G-10 handled, C-60 Spyderco Ayoob models done in SE.

I also remember some of the Forum guys at one time talking about a guy named VEFF I think it was. But I think that guy may have just sold serrated sharpening tools if my memory is right. But I also heard good things about the guy named VEFF too.

 

[dtoad]

Because serrated (Spyderedged) Hawkbills have 20 times the cutting capability of the plain edged Hawkbill blade. That is an undisputable fact and no one will argue with you either. I've really gone nuts trying to figure out why Spyderco doesn't exploit this advantage that they have by literally being king of the serrated blade. Because they are a long way from taking full advantage of it IMO.

AGREED.

I favor the 440V SE Military for EDC, but belt a Aqua SE and/or Autonomy at anytime I'm out on the water. Still dream about a 4.5+ SE Fixed Syderhawk pull cutter on my belt some day

 

[JD Spydo]

Search for Jay Fisher Knifemaker,,, one of his serration style is very close to Spyderco factory.

Tom Veff Sharpening Service, web site has a different style however, he specializes in conversions to existing knives. Also, YouTube Veff Serrations Cut Better and How to Sharpen Veff Serrations.

Regards,
FK

Yeah I thought that VEFF was the name I remembered. And I did hear good, positive stuff about his work and his sharpening tools as well. I am going to look into his sharpening tools for sure because I'm always trying to improve on methods of sharpening serrated edges of all types. And I've been coming across some really unusual serration patterns here lately. A good lady friend of mine has been taking me to a lot of thrift stores here in the Kansas City area in the past month or so and I've just been mind blown with all really nice J.A. Henckel, Wustof and other premium kitchen knives in almost mint condition that I've been finding at super low prices. I got about a dozen really good German made knives last week and I didn't pay over $4 for any of them and I got most of them for under $1. And some of those German made culinary knives have some really strange and unusual serration patterns like I've never even seen before so I really want to learn how to sharpen a wide range of serration patterns.

Hey thanks for the information FK>> I'm definitely going to check out VEFF and his tools especially.

 

[FK]

I like the DMT tapered rods for restoring older serrated edges, they are available in 45, 25 and 9 micron grades. After that I use wooden dowels in various diameters with a progression starting at 6 micron diamond spray or paste, then take it as far as you wish.
A hard leather piece held on its side and shaped to the serration profile also works well with diamond abrasive applied. The shoe leather sold at repair shops is very hard and excellent for this application.

My preference is to shape the serrated surfaces with the original angle and not follow the Spyderco Sharpmaker 40/30 degree angle. The Sharpmaker can be used for quick touch up if desired however, I normally lower the angle to about 5-8 degrees and deburr on the back side at 2-3 degrees.

Regards,
FK

 

[JD Spydo]

I like the DMT tapered rods for restoring older serrated edges, they are available in 45, 25 and 9 micron grades. After that I use wooden dowels in various diameters with a progression starting at 6 micron diamond spray or paste, then take it as far as you wish.
A hard leather piece held on its side and shaped to the serration profile also works well with diamond abrasive applied. The shoe leather sold at repair shops is very hard and excellent for this application.

My preference is to shape the serrated surfaces with the original angle and not follow the Spyderco Sharpmaker 40/30 degree angle. The Sharpmaker can be used for quick touch up if desired however, I normally lower the angle to about 5-8 degrees and deburr on the back side at 2-3 degrees.

Regards,
FK

I couldn't agree with you more about the use of the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker on serrated blades in general and especially using it on Spyderedges. I've found that Spyderco's older, discontinued sharpening tool kit called the 701 Profile set made by Spyderco for many years and I've pretty much exclusively used it because I can restore a Spyderedge to almost the exact same edge that comes from the factory. I've seen the Sharpmaker actually deform most serration patterns over time and it especially does that to Spyderedges.

And I'm a huge fan of the 204 Sharpmaker for almost every style of plain edged blade. I've owned two Sharpmakers for years and bought all the extra stones too. Now in a pinch or if time is of the essence then sure go ahead and use the Sharpmaker because it will indeed improved dull Spyderedges but over time your serrations will end up looking different. I've seen it first hand on dozens of SE blades.

 

[FK]

I also have two sets of the 701 profile in brown and white ceramic stones. A real treasure for Spyderedge maintenance.

Agree the 204 Sharpmaker will deform the original Spyderco serrated edge,,,, even more examples of rounded tips on blades. Almost everyone just drags the knife tip across the stones and wipes out the sharp tip profile. Just stop the blade before it leaves the stone surface and use the flats to finish the tip section,, without dragging it off the stone corners.

Regards,
FK

 

[JD Spydo]

I also have two sets of the 701 profile in brown and white ceramic stones. A real treasure for Spyderedge maintenance.

Agree the 204 Sharpmaker will deform the original Spyderco serrated edge,,,, even more examples of rounded tips on blades. Almost everyone just drags the knife tip across the stones and wipes out the sharp tip profile. Just stop the blade before it leaves the stone surface and use the flats to finish the tip section,, without dragging it off the stone corners.

Regards,
FK

Well "FK" you don't even know how many friends and people I know in the knife world that I have tried to point that out to and it all seems to fall on deaf ears But you obviously have seen how really precise of a sharpening job that you can do on Spyderedges with the Spyderco 701 Profile kit. Hey I will admit that on rare occasions I'll use the 204 Sharpmaker to do a quick touch up on serrated edges when time is short. But for the long term I've had such great results using those 701 Profiles not only on Spyderedges but I've also used them on plain edged Hawkbills and plain edged recurves too.

It hasn't been all that long ago that Sal said he would look into at least doing a Sprint Run of them until he found out that the manufacturer had either lost of misplaced the tooling for them unfortunately. Also I would love to see the 701 Profiles return in more grit selections too.

 

[PeterS84]

I have a number of Spydercos in SE. Favorites would be the Harpy (VG-10) and the PM2 (S30V). You might not think it, but the S30V in SE is fantastic and extremely aggressive. It's my go-to gardening knife right now.

 

[JD Spydo]

I have a number of Spydercos in SE. Favorites would be the Harpy (VG-10) and the PM2 (S30V). You might not think it, but the S30V in SE is fantastic and extremely aggressive. It's my go-to gardening knife right now.

Oh I don't disagree because I have a couple of serrated Spyders in S30V and I like the blade steel better for serrated edges than I do for plain edges. But the predecessor of S30V was a blade steel we know as 440V ( S60V) and I find it to even be much better yet. The 440V blade steel along with ATS-55 are two of my very favorite blade steels for Spyderedges and believe me I've tried all of them at one point in SE.