Not to start a pissing match, but, when you sharpen how is the galvanizing going to be on the edge. When sharpened to a keen edge nothing will remain on the cutting edge, except the exposed steel of your original material. This applies to any finish. If galvanizing is used extensively in or near salt water, the zinc will succumb to galvanic action. That is why they use it for a sacrificial metal on boats. I work with piping and I can show you lots of rusty pipe (inside and out) that was heavily galvanized and plenty of stainless that is still clean. Also, mechanically inferior is a rather broad statement and only applies in certain properties when you compare one steel to another. Steels have many mechanical properties and no one steel is king of them all. Each has its superior properties and selection should be based on function of the finished product and the users desires. I use 5160, 52100, 1095, 15N20 and D2. I would use a high grade stainless like cpm 154 without hesitation if I thought it was the best steel for a knife and its owner. The last knife I received in the Christmas gift exchange was made with cpm 154 and has proven to be an outstanding blade. There are some excellent stainless steels and some makers make knives that prove it. Some guys drive 1 ton diesel pickups and some BMWs. Depends on their uses and desires. I think it is wonderful that we have such a wide variety of excellent steels to chose from and that everyone doesn't use or want the same one. I love D2, but I know it will break before 5160 and not get as sharp as 1084, but, it will hold its edge against the best of them for most cutting jobs and keep a decent finish well. I can clean my elk and my buddies elk, skin them and then shave the hair off my arm with one of my D2 hunters, then put it away and be ready for next year. My choice for a small hunter. Not everyones.