Blade glued not straight

The colours are really cool, would be nice if they would stay, the PTX has 3 tempering lines, every one is colored different, will take a pic soon, I am also curious what kind of steel the Lauri PTX has (Uddenholm?)Maybe someone can answer this.

TY
 
Wow... I'm kind of blown away by the recommendations in this thread :eek:

Just sending a knife to a customer in a different climate can cause HUGE issues with natural handle materials. ESPECIALLY buffalo horn... so the idea of heating it up IMHO is a very bad idea.

And "just bend it"...... ??? Really???

Sometimes you just have to accept that you screwed something up and then follow the steps needed to actually fix it the right way.
 
DSTiamat said:
Hello again,

I treid the method with heating the blade but i think i ruined it. It has now a wonderfull violet blue and yellow colour, :confused:, think its not good and the handle is still in its place.
DST
Click to expand...

I think you have probably affected the temper. Most Epoxy glues break down about 72 - 80 deg C. So boiling in water would have been far better than heating the blade with a blowtorch or heat gun. Sorry I didn't post earlier, but I only just saw this thread. If you boil it and catch it while the glue is just softening, you could even correct the bend without having to remake/reglue. You may get lucky on the temper, check with a file. Yellow is OK but blue/violet knocks you down the rockwell scale pretty quickly. The only saving grace is that Lauri PT edge hardness starts at 63 Rockwell, so the violet blue areas have probably dropped about 4 or 5 points, which would still be useable as a blade (just not so great for woodwork). If it's only yellow at the edge, you won't have made a difference at all to the blades performance. One of the main points of the Lauri PT and PTX ranges is that the blade is differentially tempered (like a hamon). You will have also affected the cosmetics and distinctiveness of the hamon line.

PS: I'm pretty sure it's the same steel used for their plain carbon blades, just differentially Ht'd. analysis Carbon steel: C-0,81 Mn-0,56 S-0,004 P-0,01 Si 0,35 V-0,161 Cr-0,54
 
Nice, then I will try to boil the knife, use the handle with a NEW Lauri PTX and make a display knife with the blade because its really blue and violet and the hardness should be gone, but the colours are beatiful , like a rainbow:))

How long should I boil it? Will it not affect the horn?One more thing the "glue" is epoxy, right?
 
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DSTiamat - I think you are not hearing what we are saying. I also think there is a lot of poor advise in this thread. Here is the info you need in short bites:

If you boil the horn it will be ruined.
If you allow the horn to get too hot it will be ruined.
If you heat the blade too hot it will be ruined.
The colors on the blade are merely a surface effect, and will rub off.
The colors don't necessarily mean the blade is ruined.
Heat the blade only, not the handle, to break down the epoxy.
Let the heat seep up the tang and wiggle the handle constantly.
A heat gun or high power hair dryer is a good heat source.
Use a torch with care, as it can overhear the blade.
If the handle gets too hot to hold, you are heating things too much.
Keep the heat low and don't let the blade get above 350F/175C.
The simplest way to repair a bad handle job is break off the handle and replace it.
Buffalo horn is fairly cheap.
Make sure the blade and handle are straight before the epoxy cures next time.
 
I second everything that Bladsmth said, but I would boil the blade (not the handle) rather than risk overheating with a flame source. Boil it until the glue goes soft. If it's not soft by 30mins, there's something wrong. When using a bolster, drill the slot in the buffalo horn using drill bits the same thickness as the tang. do the corner ones first, but the middle hole use a bigger bit. This will allow extra glue for void filling and also some relief from "hydrostatic pressure" generated when inserting the tang (helps reduce excess glue spurting out the hole). the better fit you get with the tang, the more chance of gluing up straight.
 
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