Blade Oxidation

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Jan 14, 2014
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I found some weird blade oxidation on one of my unused BFs. I'll take pictures later to try and get it on film (I feel kinda sad that statement is no longer accurate...). It kinda looks like stretch marks drawn w pencil. On my brand new Nessie I noticed a few dark "scratch" marks, but when I run my nail across it, there's nothing. I'm assuming that's oxidation too.

Question, how can I get rid of these marks? I treat all my blades w mineral oil to prevent, but I have no clue how to get this off when it occurs.

Help me Will Towns you're my only hope...
 
Try buffing with some diluted Bar Keepers Friend. You can find the powder anywhere that sells Ajax. The oxallic acid will eat that right up. So long as you are even remotely careful, you shouldn't have any problem.

Side note- the same stuff is perfect for cleaning sharpening stones because the acid eats the swarf and leaves behind a perfectly clean surface. Mix to a paste for that application, apply, leave for a minute, then rinse. Thank me later. ;)
 
If you use scotchbrite, or barkeepers friend, or toothpaste, or anything else abrasive, be sure to put the scratches in the same direction they're in now. Its tool steel. Cut things with it!
 
If you use scotchbrite, or barkeepers friend, or toothpaste, or anything else abrasive, be sure to put the scratches in the same direction they're in now. Its tool steel. Cut things with it!

This..

Ok well, I promised a tutorial, this is not it but for you Dave, here's my .02. Please note that this method works for me and not for everyone... so if anyone uses this and either obtains sub optimal results or damages their knife, please note that I in no way take responsibility for you damaging your knife.

Oxidation, heavy patina, blood, guts, no problem! Follow steps in this order:

1) Clean the patinated area with >70% USP rubbing alcohol; this strips away oils and any residue on the blade
2) Apply a thin layer of flitz / simichrome / mothers with your finger. It should be so thin that the application already starts to turn gray/black
3) Use #0000 steel wool, and as Andy describes, rub with the grind lines, perpendicular to the spine. Apply moderate pressure.
4) Remove old polishing paste with a micro fiber towel, and reapply per step 3 and continue to repeat
5) At some point, you will have removed +70% of your patina, but some of the more stubborn & faint marks will be present
6) Paper towels are in all actuality VERY abrasive! ;)... from here on out use paper towels only (folded in 1/8 or more to increase media stiffness)
7) Reapply more polish in thin layers and rub with the grind lines, perpindicular to the spine. Apply HEAVY pressure.
8) You will see a ton of black oxidation coming off on the paper towels
9) Continue to repeat 4-8 with paper towels until all of the patina is removed
10) Clean the entire knife in the sink with warm water & dawn (polishes are NOT food safe); Dawn is oleophobic and will remove a lot of not readily visible funk left behind from the cleaning process.
11) Dry entire knife thoroughly
12) Reapply rubbing alcohol to the blade and immediately wipe away (blade is now "stripped")
13) Apply mineral oil to the entire knife & wipe away
14) Stand back and marvel at your really clean fiddleback
15) Drink a beer and determine how you will get it dirty next! :D

A few more thoughts:
- Bar keepers friend (if not diluted) will actually patina a blade... much similar to doing an apple cider vinegar patina. If you screw up with bar keepers friend, use the above methods.
-The above method will work pretty well against forced patinas, but some more aggressive food borne acids (i.e. mustard) may etch the steel
- This process takes time; expect that a well patinaed knife can take 30-60 minutes to clean; this does not include handle scales
- Which brings me to my next topic; I have limited experience restoring scales, but what has worked for me (regardless of material) is starting with 180 grit wet and sanding in a unidirectional manner until smooth, keep your paper clean, and continue to progress up through 600-800 or until the handle looks new. Clean thoroughly and apply either mineral oil or 100% tung tree oil (NOT FORMBYS!).
- If you are having issues with a non-stabilized wood scale, I recommend the above method, sans minerall/tung oil, and instead applying BC Tru-Oil... Note that YMMV, but if you want to stabilize a natural wood handle, this works but really needs its own tutorial as you can really hose up some nice scales unless you know what you are doing!

So, good luck & happy restoring!

===STOP READING HERE===

Disclamer: DON'T DO THIS TO YOUR FIDDLEBACK FORGE KNIFE; DOING SO WILL PROBABLY VOID YOUR WARRANTY
- Along with the above stated methods, I do use a few more "tricks" for some of my heavy use "keeper", non-fiddleback knives. Note that some pretty insane results can be had with a LOW SPEED ultrafine scotchbrite wheel, but I do not endorse, recommend, or otherwise suggest this method. It will void your warranty and can possibly ruin your heat treat if done improperly. I do not sell or trade knives that I scotchbrite for this reason; but if you have a 100% keeper, know what you are doing, and don't plan to sell/trade/return the knife...EVER, then have at it; the wheel is easily located on major online retailers (Amaz....etc.)

If your knife is really really dirty, look into the spa service; it is easier and will not void your warranty.
 
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If your knife is really really dirty, look into the spa service; it is easier and will not void your warranty.

+1 on this portion. If you're a heavy collector and have a ton of Fiddlebacks, I would notch or mark which blades you took to any machine, just so you don't forget and sell it. I wouldn't want to spend good money on a blade someone overheated on a wheel. Just saying.
 
+1 on this portion. If you're a heavy collector and have a ton of Fiddlebacks, I would notch or mark which blades you took to any machine, just so you don't forget and sell it. I wouldn't want to spend good money on a blade someone overheated on a wheel. Just saying.

EXACTLY -- I couldn't agree more!
 
- Bar keepers friend (if not diluted) will actually patina a blade... much similar to doing an apple cider vinegar patina. If you screw up with bar keepers friend, use the above methods.

I read about Bar keepers friend on the forum and did not see the dilute part, it put a patina on my blade when I tried it.
 
Good stuff Will! Thanks for posting it.

Regarding Bar Keepers Friend: I think of it as the first step in restoring a really bad knife. It has some side effects that are dealt with in later steps. I've used it a few times on Fiddlebacks to do stuff like remove stubborn sap that wouldn't come off and have used it on a non-FB when I found some rust starting to form :eek:. In each of these cases, I then followed up with Flitz.

It's like sharpening, depending on how much needs to be done, I go all the way back to a very rough grit and work up through the steps, or it might just need some stropping with compound.

Reading my linked post from the other thread, I realize I didn't specify this distinction. Sorry if this caused any issues.

Flitz claims to be food safe, but also recommends washing with warm soapy water before use.
 
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I didn't realize there was a crazy cleansing ritual! and to think this whole time all I have ever done is wipe a knife on the pants or shirt of the dead body and then put it back in the sheath. :D
 
I didn't realize there was a crazy cleansing ritual! and to think this whole time all I have ever done is wipe a knife on the pants or shirt of the dead body and then put it back in the sheath. :D


:thumbup:
 
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