Blade play; Do we make too much over it?

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Oct 2, 2004
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Time is the most accomplished thief there is. It's the major contributor of age and wear known to man. We all get those joints that after a certain age, don't work quite the way they did in our younger more salid days. knives are no exeption.

I've got some knives that don't have any blade play, but I have some that do. The ones that do have some side to side blade play are older knives, have seen the passing of years, and the blades, like thier owner, are now grey with the passing of said years. But it does not seem to affect them much.

I only think of this because I was carrying a very old knife for the past few days. When a very old and dear friend passed away a few years back, he left me his Peterson pipe collection and his stag handled pocket knives. Bill was a very old fashioned guy, and even though he was a famous bladesmith in his own right, he loved pocket knives. Espcially if they had nice stag handles. Old Bertram era Hen and Roosters, an old handmade pocketknife made from a piece of crown stag that had been split and the knife made to the shape of the stag.

I've been using these knives, and even though they do have some blade play, it seems to not affect their ability to zip open a bag of top soil, cut a piece of twine, slice a snack off something in the fridge, cut open a cardboard box, break down said box for trash. And in a weird way, the little bit of blade wobble seems to add to their charater. But I wonder if a little side to side wobble is maybe not only not a bad thing, but a case made for it being maybe a little bit of a good thing.

Can a knife be too well made?

Okay, please bear with me here, I don't think I'm quite ready for the rubber knife club yet. You're opinion may differ.

I was using a sak to open lots of bags of top soil when I was doing some work on the back yard a while back. Some dirt got into the hinge, and I had a rough sak, and it was hell to get it right again. Repeated washings with warm water and Dawn dish detergent, lubing, then repeat the process. it took days till it was right again. I love Victorinox for the flawless way the make knives. Their fit and finish is consitantly higher than anyone else in the industry, maybe because they make more knives than anyone else in the business. But under dirty conditions, maybe their too good.

I did a dirty job recently, and I had a pocket knife that had a good bit of sideplay wobble. It was an old knife of Bill's, but I used it and it got the rough hingle feel. Only this time it rinsed right out with a bit of water. I held the knife under the tap and wiggled it a bit side to side, and it flushed right out. After, a little gun oil in the joint and its back to normal.

I keep thinking of the old G.I. issue 11911A1.

When I was in the army, that was the issue sidearm one got. I've seen them dropped in mud, gritty with sand, neglected, taken down and quickly wiped off with a bandanna, and then go through a whole 7 round magazine with no problems. But hold it up and shake it, and it would rattle like a bucket of bolts.

I think of that old knife that way. It may have some blade wobble, but it works at it's intended use just fine, and if things get really dirty, it cleans out in a jiffy. And in my private theroy, with a little slop in the action, and a drop of oil now and then, there should be, in theroy anyways, less wear on the surfaces. Less preasure should mean less friction.

With a slip joint pocket knife, it's not like there has to be tight tolerances for things like well fitting liner locks, or lockback style lock bars. Heck, a slippy is just one step from a primitive friction folder. Or the penny knives of the 16th century. The actual mechanical design is far from rocket science or high tech. It's roots are in a hard working tool for cowboys, farmers, laborers, peasants, depending on how far back you go.

I rescued an old Camillus scout knife from a yard sale, mostly becasue it was like the one dad gave me when I was 12. it was a little rusty, has some wobble, but the old carbon steel sharpened up like an Opinel. Maybe by modern standards its kind of old and wobbly, but it's sort of like finding an old '67 Goat in a barn, with the paint cracked and faded, but while the 389 may smoke a little, you know it's still going to be a running S.O.B.

I doubt most people these days use their pocket knives as hard as our grandfathers did. According to the latest figures, the vast majority of people now live in suburban, if not out and out urban areas. Hunting is at an all time low, according to the Maryland D.N.R., and most people now work in an office type of environment. Yet I look at the old knives, and they all have wobble. Didn't seem to matter much to the owner.

I guess Iwouldn't want to have a great deal of wobble on a brand new knife, but if there was just a skoash, a tiny bit, I guess I'd accept that. If its used like a pocket knife should be, as a tool instead of a cult worship collectors piece, it's going to develope wobble in time anyways.

So, wobble or not wobble, how many accept a little wobble in a edc pocket knife?
 
I accept it in knives that I have owned and used for a while.

It gets a little harder to accept in a new knife though other than a small almost slight tad of side to side movement in a factory made one.
 
Some blade play is the luck of the draw when buying knvies
If the blade is loose, it gets sent back

How fast it gets called loose is dependant on the cost of the knife and the reputation of the manufacturer being a fine cutler
 
A little wobble doesn't bother me any and I do think we make to much of a stink over it.
 
In a new knife I might have a problem, I would especially if it were a Custom. On a Production knife I prefer not to have it, but expect over time I will get some. It really does not affect how they cut, it is a perception of build quality. If I look at an old knife, the blade shape, handle condition play a bigger role in my perception than a slight wobble in the blade.
 
Blade play is an indicator in how the knife was used, how much it was used, and the tolerances involved in making it. I don't mind a little in knives I've had and used hard. Even then, I have yet to have a knife accumulate an appreciable amount of blade play to be bothersome.
 
I went through a period last year where every slip-joint I bought had side to side play. On a new knife I feel blade play = lazy knife making. My last few CV Case knives have been nice and tight.

No blade play for me please! :D
 
Guys,
Keep this in mind, if it is hard for dirt to get in, it will be even harder for you to get the dirt out.


Jack knife, If it's the same Bill that I am thinking of, I wouldn't want to be opening top soil with any of his knives.

I totally agree with you. If the environment is dirty, the wooble on the blade is going to be an advantage over the knife with tight lock up. I knew a guy in college who dropped his leatherman is a bucket of sheet rock. It was a pain to get everything working again. If it your wobbly blade, it would be a better story.

Now, we live in an era that is fairly clean. I don't routinely drop knives in to stuff. I would prefer my knives not wobble, especially NIB. Often times, blade wobbles is sign of poor or slack workmanship. If a new knife does wobble, I keep wondering what else did the manufacture mess up. However, if my slippies wobbles from year of using, then I would be proud of the work and the knife for its years of service.

God Bless
 
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After being used hard for a long time I wouldn't be too upset with a little blade play. Now if it were a fixed blade with blade play??:confused::eek::D
 
Jack knife, If it's the same Bill that I am thinking of, I wouldn't want to be opening top soil with any of his knives.

This is the same Bill that firmly believed that an object should be used for what it was designed for. This is the same Bill, that would take an 1846 Purdy rifle deer hunting on a friends farm. Some time later, when a man from some high falutin collector society heard about the rifle, and came to see it, he remarked that in its day, it would have been a great hunting rifle. When Bill told him off hand it still was, and that he'd bagged a nice buck with it, the man almost fainted.

Bill was against collecting things for the sake of collecting. To use his personal pocket knives, is to honor his memory everytime I use it for what it was made for.
 
Time is the most accomplished thief there is. It's the major contributor of age and wear known to man. We all get those joints that after a certain age, don't work quite the way they did in our younger more salid days. knives are no exeption.

I've got some knives that don't have any blade play, but I have some that do. The ones that do have some side to side blade play are older knives, have seen the passing of years, and the blades, like thier owner, are now grey with the passing of said years. But it does not seem to affect them much.

I only think of this because I was carrying a very old knife for the past few days. When a very old and dear friend passed away a few years back, he left me his Peterson pipe collection and his stag handled pocket knives. Bill was a very old fashioned guy, and even though he was a famous bladesmith in his own right, he loved pocket knives. Espcially if they had nice stag handles. Old Bertram era Hen and Roosters, an old handmade pocketknife made from a piece of crown stag that had been split and the knife made to the shape of the stag.

I've been using these knives, and even though they do have some blade play, it seems to not affect their ability to zip open a bag of top soil, cut a piece of twine, slice a snack off something in the fridge, cut open a cardboard box, break down said box for trash. And in a weird way, the little bit of blade wobble seems to add to their charater. But I wonder if a little side to side wobble is maybe not only not a bad thing, but a case made for it being maybe a little bit of a good thing.

Can a knife be too well made?

Okay, please bear with me here, I don't think I'm quite ready for the rubber knife club yet. You're opinion may differ.

I was using a sak to open lots of bags of top soil when I was doing some work on the back yard a while back. Some dirt got into the hinge, and I had a rough sak, and it was hell to get it right again. Repeated washings with warm water and Dawn dish detergent, lubing, then repeat the process. it took days till it was right again. I love Victorinox for the flawless way the make knives. Their fit and finish is consitantly higher than anyone else in the industry, maybe because they make more knives than anyone else in the business. But under dirty conditions, maybe their too good.

I did a dirty job recently, and I had a pocket knife that had a good bit of sideplay wobble. It was an old knife of Bill's, but I used it and it got the rough hingle feel. Only this time it rinsed right out with a bit of water. I held the knife under the tap and wiggled it a bit side to side, and it flushed right out. After, a little gun oil in the joint and its back to normal.

I keep thinking of the old G.I. issue 11911A1.

When I was in the army, that was the issue sidearm one got. I've seen them dropped in mud, gritty with sand, neglected, taken down and quickly wiped off with a bandanna, and then go through a whole 7 round magazine with no problems. But hold it up and shake it, and it would rattle like a bucket of bolts.

I think of that old knife that way. It may have some blade wobble, but it works at it's intended use just fine, and if things get really dirty, it cleans out in a jiffy. And in my private theroy, with a little slop in the action, and a drop of oil now and then, there should be, in theroy anyways, less wear on the surfaces. Less preasure should mean less friction.

With a slip joint pocket knife, it's not like there has to be tight tolerances for things like well fitting liner locks, or lockback style lock bars. Heck, a slippy is just one step from a primitive friction folder. Or the penny knives of the 16th century. The actual mechanical design is far from rocket science or high tech. It's roots are in a hard working tool for cowboys, farmers, laborers, peasants, depending on how far back you go.

I rescued an old Camillus scout knife from a yard sale, mostly becasue it was like the one dad gave me when I was 12. it was a little rusty, has some wobble, but the old carbon steel sharpened up like an Opinel. Maybe by modern standards its kind of old and wobbly, but it's sort of like finding an old '67 Goat in a barn, with the paint cracked and faded, but while the 389 may smoke a little, you know it's still going to be a running S.O.B.

I doubt most people these days use their pocket knives as hard as our grandfathers did. According to the latest figures, the vast majority of people now live in suburban, if not out and out urban areas. Hunting is at an all time low, according to the Maryland D.N.R., and most people now work in an office type of environment. Yet I look at the old knives, and they all have wobble. Didn't seem to matter much to the owner.

I guess Iwouldn't want to have a great deal of wobble on a brand new knife, but if there was just a skoash, a tiny bit, I guess I'd accept that. If its used like a pocket knife should be, as a tool instead of a cult worship collectors piece, it's going to develope wobble in time anyways.

So, wobble or not wobble, how many accept a little wobble in a edc pocket knife?

Your 1911 comment hit the nail on the head (sort of). The more complicated/precise you make something, the more fragile that something will be. Just compare the M4, to an AK. 1200-1500 rounds before you must strip/clean to 1 where the owner had it for 8 years and never cleaned it. He asked why he should it shoots fine.
 
This is the same Bill that firmly believed that an object should be used for what it was designed for. This is the same Bill, that would take an 1846 Purdy rifle deer hunting on a friends farm. Some time later, when a man from some high falutin collector society heard about the rifle, and came to see it, he remarked that in its day, it would have been a great hunting rifle. When Bill told him off hand it still was, and that he'd bagged a nice buck with it, the man almost fainted.

Bill was against collecting things for the sake of collecting. To use his personal pocket knives, is to honor his memory everytime I use it for what it was made for.

I use to get the same response from people when I would take my Winchester 86's, and 92's out to shoot... When I told them they were made to be shot, they would almost always come back with, but you might damage it and hurt the value.....
I got SO much enjoyment out of shooting those old guns, that I could never place a monetary value on it, and will remember each time I shot them until I'm to old to remember anything....

As a true lover and collector of 1911's I fully understand what you said.
My absolute favorite was a Colt 1911 U.S ARMY made in 1918.
Terrible sights, rough trigger, and definetely not tight in the clearance dept.
Wasn't the most accurate 1911 I've ever owned either, but I smiled from ear to ear each time I shot and carried that pistol :D
 
My feeling is that a new knife should have no wobble.

My experience is that a knife used hard or abused will sometimes get some wobble. Once a knife gets wobbly it will get worse if you continue to use the knife hard. If you retire it to "light duty" the wobble will not get worse, but light duty is no fun for a knife that has served you well. Better yet wobble is easy to fix in a variety of ways. People who care for tools maintain them beyond just cleaning, oiling and sharpening. This should include fixing wobbly blades. That's why you often see on older pocket knives the signs of an adjusted or repaired pivot. Once its fixed, the wobble stays away for a long time. Why not fix the wobble?
 
Guess knives are sort of like men, as we get older you can expect a little "BLADE" play lol still serviceable but not like when it was new!!:D
 
I think overall, we make far too much of it. On a hand-fitted custom, I would not accept it, but I've made enough stuff myself, and know enough about various manufacturing processes to accept some in production knives.
 
I use to get the same response from people when I would take my Winchester 86's, and 92's out to shoot... When I told them they were made to be shot, they would almost always come back with, but you might damage it and hurt the value.....
I got SO much enjoyment out of shooting those old guns, that I could never place a monetary value on it, and will remember each time I shot them until I'm to old to remember anything....

As a true lover and collector of 1911's I fully understand what you said.
My absolute favorite was a Colt 1911 U.S ARMY made in 1918.
Terrible sights, rough trigger, and definetely not tight in the clearance dept.
Wasn't the most accurate 1911 I've ever owned either, but I smiled from ear to ear each time I shot and carried that pistol :D

Most of the Amish cary Win 92's, some Marlin 1894's, and a few original Win 1873's all in .38-40.
 
Blade play...one of my favorite subjects;):D
Beating_A_Dead_Horse_by_livius.gif


Seriously though, I don't think a knife can be made "too good". They should be made as tight as possible while maintaining good walk n talk. But, if the blade doesn't have some elbow room, the knife isn't going to work. It's maddening, I tell ya.

The tolerances are very close between great snap and sleepy blades....wobbly blades and no movement. I tiny bit of side to side play doesn't bother me. I would rather have that than have a blade that is sluggish.
 
your story just reminded me of why an ak-47 is so reliable. the tolerances are so loose, you can get dirt water sand, just about anything in it and it will still probably work. but you know what? they have piss poor accuracy and feel sloppy as hell. you can dump all the money you want into one, still wont be accurate.
i think the same can be said of knives. having a well made knife just, well, feels nice i think. just feels more solid doing heavy duty work.but if your really going to be beating the crap out of it..you should be using a fixed blade=P
 
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