Blade play - who cares!?

As my old friend, Slats Grobnik, used to say, "Who cares".... Slats was more concerned about whether the blade was sharp than if it had some wiggle....
 
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Blade play doesn't bother me. I hardly ever notice it unless I check for it. It doesn't even bother me when whittling, and I've done my share. What bothers me the most is a blade that hits the edge against the backspring or the tip against the spacer unless you ride the blade home when closing.
 
As my old friend, Slats Grobnik, used to say, "Who cares".... Slats was more concerned about whether the blade was sharp than if it had some wiggle....
With all due respect to both Slats Grobniks in the world, that sounds like a very Slats Grobnik thing to say.
 
I have one (a GEC) with blade wobble, didn’t notice until I checked for it. Don’t love it but it’s not my bug bear, I once cut my finger on a proud tip and since then nothing irks me more than a proud tip.
 
On a new knife I expect no noticeable blade play, a sharp edge, good action and good overall finish, for the price.

That is why I pay the manufacturer/maker to make the knife.

If there are issues, I expect the manufacturer to fix them and if it is an older well used knife, to give me the ability (by design) to fix these issues (sharpen blade, tighten pivots..)

Some do not care about these, and even seem to enjoy them, thus we had many apparently happy when Queen was giving them the "option" to sharpen a new dull knife the way they, the experts, wanted to. :)
 
I think it's more of an autistic thing than functional thing.
Anyone who has ever cut such things as brass pins knows how damn tough they can be.
 
With all due respect to both Slats Grobniks in the world, that sounds like a very Slats Grobnik thing to say.
Slats, as you might expect, is a very pragmatic person when it comes to his cutting tools.... He often says, "Dis ain't no sissy knife; screw the blade play".....
 
Funny how so many of the people who don't mind some play in the blade don't mind telling everyone how to feel.

I prefer all my tools to have functionally tight tolerances including my folding knives. As in not friction tight hard to open but also not sloppy loose. But then I also don't mind one bit what someone else prefers.
 
If I notice the blade is loose, it's a problem. I don't test a knife for it.
I have a stock knife that as new was loose when open and locked. I sent it back and it was either replaced with another loose blade or not repaired. I put it in a drawer and it may be of use some day.
 
To me a wobbly blade is a sign of poor construction. What other problems does that knife have? A tiny amount of blade movement in a SJ is fair game, however.
 
Blade play and blade movement are a bit different in my mind. If there’s a bit of wiggle? Not an issue at all. Does the blade move? Now that’s an issue for me. I specifically have seen this with vintage and/or very inexpensive slip joints. If I’m cutting something and the blade moves from side to side while using, that’s not being nitpicky, that’s a problem.

I also think that a lot of the care regarding blade play is a question of quality. Most high quality knives I own have minimal or no blade play. This is not the case in the sub $50 range. I have pride of ownership in owning quality things.

Sorry for rambling!
 
I’m one of those blade play OCD nutters. It bothers me, especially in collectible and more pricey knives. I make exceptions for just minor play in knives that are < $100. But most times I will pass on a knife with blade play, it’s not something that gets better over time. If the Chinese can make a cheap sub-$50 knife with excellent fit and finish and no blade play, there is no excuse for higher priced American brands and makers.

I’ve had some success in removing or improving blade play on traditionals by putting boosters into a small vice. Of course it will cause pivot screw to protrude a bit.
 
To me a wobbly blade is a sign of poor construction.

I knew a gal who worked in the "Dragon Bar" in Saitozaki, Japan who was a bit wobbly on the dance floor after a couple of drinks but then again, she only had one leg and post WWII prosthetic construction wasn't all that good so her wooden leg was a bit uneven on the heel and toe which just goes to show how important "construction" is.
 
Call me crazy but if I am spending over 50 bucks for a slipjoint, I expect at least good snap and no blade play. If 100 year old knives can still snap and have no blade play, no reason new ones can't. Blade play will get worse over time. Can it be fixed? Probably, but I'd rather not have to.
 
I don't like blade play, but in a traditional slip joint I can live with a little.

I tend to put ones with too much in a vice and attempt to lessen the wiggle.
 
I have peened my fair share of pivot pins, and I appreciate the fine balance taking place there. I consider blade play in a new knife (at any price) to be unacceptable, while I can accept some in an older or vintage knife. I expect anyone selling a knife to disclose any blade wobble upfront.
 
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