Blade Polishing

Joined
Jan 26, 2001
Messages
43
The blade on my CUDA is a bead blasted finish. On another forum (I looked but can't find it again, sorry) someone mentioned polishing a bead blasted blade using some sort of polishing compound method. Any suggestions?
 
I suggest that you go to the Shop Talk Forum and use the search function for the words "buffing" and/or "finishing." Tons of information on this subject.
 
Thanks Andrew, I'll check it out! I was beginning to think I was going to have to post a new topic like "Naked women & knives" to get a reply
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Nope, that wasn't it. What I'm looking for is hand polishing methods. I spent an hour looking for the posting I read before, but couldn't find it. All I remember is that it was something about polishing compound (maybe automotive). I know you're out there somewhere, a little help please. Why is it that knife & gun owners are never satisfied with what they have??? Seems like we are always looking for ways to modify something or are planning our next purchase
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You'll have to start with sand paper and elbow grease first. Don't skip grits. I don't know where you'll have to start, but maybe 220 will do. Then go 320, 400, 500, 600, 800, and go as high as you can. Then you'll have to get some buffing compound, maybe from Jantz, K&G or some other supplier (maybe you can find the right stuff locally) and buff the blade. Buffing is dangerous, but it definitely puts in that nice mirror shine. But before you buff you'll have a lot of hand sanding do do. Use a sanding block for sure. If your knife is hollow ground, you'll have to make a block that fits the curve. Ask on Shop Talk for help on that.

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"Come What May..."
 
David T had good success using small scotchbrite wheels on his dremel. Do a search on the Emerson forum.
 
Sam1, What do you want as a finishing result. Do you just want to take some scratches out of the bead blast if so try polishing it with flitz, if you need to get a little deeper try using the flitz with #0000 steel wool. If your trying for the mirror polish then go with Crayola's method. The Scotch Brite makes a good brushed look. I use the #0000 wool with flitz after I scotch brite my Spyderco handles and it comes out looking good. Which ever method you use it works best to keep the polishing moving in one direction.
 
I've asked the same question about a week or so ago.
Advices were to use polishing compaund and sandpaper 600-800-1200-1500-2000.

Troubles started when I tried to buy sandpaper
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At least here in bay area, no homedepo or orchard or anyone who I've called had nothing finer than 600 grit.

So, I'm gonna get on the internet.
After I've found out that the Nimravus that I want to polist has already beed finished with 2000 grit, I've decided to use compound.
4000, 6000, 8000. Just experimenting
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Dremel tool didn't produce any positive results, though I'm too inexperienced with that either.

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Have Fun,
Alligator
 
Thanks everyone! Looks like I've got my work cut out for me!!!
sigsauer-what is "flitz"?
 
Looks like a good product. Can you tell me what the difference is between this product and automotive polishing or rubbing compound.
I would probably be satisfied with a slightly shinier satinlike finish. Do you think Flitz alone would do that, or do I need to use sandpaper first?
sigsauer-when you say "keep the polishing moving in one direction" do you mean using circular strokes or straight end to end strokes?
Thanks again for everyone's input!
 
Sam1,

Flitz, and other similar compounds won't change the surface finish of the beadblast since it isn't abrasive enough to scrub it smooth. It will however, change the lustre of the blade and will give it -- in someone else's words -- a "galvanized aluminum" shine.

If you want a satin finish or near-mirror finish, you will have to sand the surface using a combination of methods: sandpaper, steel wool, polishing/buffing wheel. Then you can finish with a polishing compound like Flitz.

[This message has been edited by Full Tang Clan (edited 02-25-2001).]
 
Thanks everyone! I'll start with 6 million grit and work my way down. Hey, gotta have something to do with my retirement time! Now again, do I use straight end to end strokes, or a circular pattern like you would use with polishing compound on a car? I don't have access to a buffing wheel (maybe my wife should read this so she will know how BAD I need one) so I will have to do it by hand.
 
I find straight sanding strokes work best going in the length wise direction. For crying out loud, be careful and don't cut yourself! I find circular sanding will leave swirl marks.

You can use circular motions when you get to the final buffing stage.

P.S. Dremel tools aren't as expensive as you think they are.

 
Full Tang,
Is that doable with the dremel tool?
I've tried that rubber wheel it has, and the compound (comes in dremel polishing kit) but practically no success.

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zvis.com
Have Fun,
Alligator
 
Sorry I wasn't more specific about the sanding strokes. Full Tang Clan suggested what I think is the best method. Personally I can't stand mirror finishes as they show wear easily and reflect to much light. When refinishing I try to obtain a brused look by using Scotch Brite when finished.

I would be interested to hear how the stone washed finish is obtained, any one have any ideas.
 
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