Blade shapes and their best uses: Traditionals

Peter Cho said:
Thanks, Scott. I like the idea of using a clip point too. If that’s what I had in my pocket, that’s probably what I would have selected.

I forgot to mention in my questions: assume non-locking slip joints.
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As long as the spring isn't weak I don't think I'd even give it a thought, but now that you mention it I might use a pinch grip on the blade if I thought it might shut on me.
 
Peter Cho said:
Resurrecting an old thread...

Recently used my GEC 23 drop point blade to pierce a vent hole into a large bottle of dawn to get the last bit out when it was inverted. The plastic was fairly stout. I made sure to keep the cutting edge engaged (no pressure on the blade’s spine) and successfully completed the task without issue. Afterwards I was wondering what technique other fellas use to make sure they don’t have an accident.

* what blade type would you favor for this piercing task?

* what grip would you maintain while doing this?

* what considerations would you have before doing this task?

of course, I could have used a paring knife in the kitchen’s knife block...;)
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I’d use a fixed blade for that. Put the bottle on a stable surface and then icepick that sucker.

I’d never use one of my kitchen knives for that task. Their edges are too fine and delicate for that. I’d hate to chip or ripple the edge, or maybe even break the tip. Besides it’s not like I don’t have other knives. Right tool for the task and all that.
 
kamagong said:
I’d use a fixed blade for that. Put the bottle on a stable surface and then icepick that sucker.

I’d never use one of my kitchen knives for that task. Their edges are too fine and delicate for that. I’d hate to chip or ripple the edge, or maybe even break the tip. Besides it’s not like I don’t have other knives. Right tool for the task and all that.
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While our kitchen knives are quality German cutlery, we run hard on them. I find myself with them on the sharpmaker about once a week. Sometimes I get out a stone and rework the tips.

Anyone have any thoughts about using a Sheepsfoot blade holding it really choked up with index finger quite close to the tip?
 
Peter Cho said:
While our kitchen knives are quality German cutlery, we run hard on them. I find myself with them on the sharpmaker about once a week. Sometimes I get out a stone and rework the tips.

Anyone have any thoughts about using a Sheepsfoot blade holding it really choked up with index finger quite close to the tip?
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Sheepsfoot would be decent especially as the point is below the centerline of the pivot. That’s the risk with non-locking drop points... the point is so high on the blade that it’s very easy for the force you apply to the tough plastic to start closing the blade.

Really any robust point would work if you had to. That’s why I personally don’t care for wharncliffes and really fine clips on work knives. They’re great for letter openers, but the points seem to get blunted if you look at them funny, let alone using them for something like making a hole in plastic.
 
I agree about how easy it is to blunt a tip. I always find myself touching up the tips of my folders.

It starts when they’re new. For Case knives, they need a tip out of the box since the tip has usually been rounded in their tumbling/finishing process. For GEC clip points, I typically will drop the tip with a fine file until I feel nothing when running my finger over the closed knife near the blade tip. I generally prefer not to file the kick - I don’t want to invite blade rap and I like having as much blade real estate as possible exposed for easier opening.
 
perchjerk said:
Ive been thinking about this topic alot lately. I carry a case sowbelly stockman and love the blade variety. I find myself however, using the sheep for virtually everything. I almost have to force myself to use the spey. I tell myself its there incase I need to do some scraping or edge damaging task as to preserve my other main two blades but thats just to make myself justify its existence. My ideal knife would be the very knife I carry daily without the spey. I guess that would make it a sowbelly jack? Im not aware of any production knife with that blade combo (clip and sheep) but I would be all over it if it was made.
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GEC 35 Churchill is close

View attachment 1394817
 
Ron Sabbagh said:
GEC 35 Churchill is close

View attachment 1394817
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I've carried Barlows since I was a little kid in the 1950s, and stockmans for fifty years. They've always been favorites of mine, and they still are, but then a couple years ago I discovered the Churchill.
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afishhunter said:
The "pruning" blade (AKA "Hawkbill") is also great for linoleum, carpet, drywall, electrical wiring, and so on.
A sheepsfoot, lambsfoot, and Wharncliff are good when making straight and precise cuts (leather, thick foam, etc) as well as sharpening pencils and whittling.
Drop point, spear point, and clip points, are good for skinning critters, and general cutting needs. These are probably the most versatile.
The "Spey" blade is obviously good for it's intended purpose, and skinning critters cleaning fish, and budding/grafting. Some also like it for whittling and carving.
The Coping blade is good for that, and whittling.
The punch/awl (usually found on Scout/Camp knives and SAK's) is useful for making holes in your belt, scribing lines, (wood, metal, plastic, leather, drywall, etc) opening bottles or jugs of oil, antifreeze, and other items with a seal under the cap.
The combination cap lifter/bottle opener flat screwdriver is right handy for bottles without a twist off cap. (there are still some of those in use, by the way)
The can opener is good for that, and scraping paint and other stuff near the window glass and in tight corners.

There are, of course, other blade profiles, but I think these are the most common today.

The experts will be along shortly to correct my errors.
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:thumbsup: Punch is also very useful for pilot holes in wood or soft materials.
 
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