Well, I have a HT furnace now. So I guess I can do the programmable aspects. I am.only doing stock removal so there's that too. I do know wood working carvers like carbon steels over ss but perhaps with more modern steels it may be more superstition. As for turners they love the HSS+ stuff but much of that is about grinder abuse.
Yes, the cad is fun. And it is a good exercise while I don't have access to my shop. It has made me see certain shapes and aspects of blades differently.
Without going too far off topic. I would suspect they most likely are basing their opinions on either older ss, or ones that were suboptimally heat treated. Let's say having hard steel and fine grain structures is great for woodworking. Then aebl seems perfect, or maybe being tough at or above 62 HRC with good wear resistance, then 4v, m4, xwear, (honestly a good few powder metallurgy steels would be great). The big thing is that these steels need to be properly heat treated to get the properties that are needed. As long as the person making the blade knows what to do, and had the right tools, they should get blades that are more than good enough.
can you explain what you were doing with the construction geometries? Can I assume that you are not using a raised kick, but simply the existing bottom on the blade. Or is that an optical illusion between the construction lines and such? I walked through the tutorial at Herbst, and the knife they made kind of just builds the kick into the ricasso. This image kind of reminds me of that a little.Point taken. But if you are going to bother making a CAD model, why not put in the constraints to make it at least work correctly in the computer? I just drew this fully constrained parametric tang in FreeCAD in less than ten minutes, and I am not really all that familiar with the software or CAD in general.
I personally believe that there are excellently made carving instruments that are hundreds of years old and still working perfectly holding an edge well, and being easy enough to sharpen, or at least touch up. Look at Mary May and her videos on sharpening carving tools. When the PM steels came out many of them wouldn't take as fine of an edge and they are hard to sharpen. I agree that the newer metals are much better, and I, myself use as many PM steels in my turning tools and love them. However, when people get a bad taste in their mouth, it is tough to over come. But I am open minded, and willing to give anything a try. However, I do like the idea of D2 and I see there is a pm version of it now. I have yet to do anything with SS, so I will, no doubt, be asking for opinions on that at some point.
Not sure what you mean by existing bottom. The kick is at the end of the 25mm line, where the notch is. I just did this as a quick sketch, so it is not raised. I'll try to make an illustrated step-by-step tutorial how I constrained the tang geometry.can you explain what you were doing with the construction geometries? Can I assume that you are not using a raised kick, but simply the existing bottom on the blade. Or is that an optical illusion between the construction lines and such? I walked through the tutorial at Herbst, and the knife they made kind of just builds the kick into the ricasso. This image kind of reminds me of that a little.
Designing a slip-back folding knife
Easy-to-follow guidelines to help you design a slip-back folding knife.www.herbst.co.za
Okay, not a big deal. Just thought I was seeing something new.
I honestly believe it was as much to do with sharpening, and choice of abrasives, and the heat treat on the steel, as anything else in those cases.
I figure if D2 was good enough for Queen Cutlery then it's good enough!
It's also one of those things that you see lots of DIY folks making blades for weird things out of allen wrenches. I never even heard of D2 until I started investigating why so many people used allen wrenches for things like that. People making lathe tools, and routers (manual) and so forth.. Just made me investigate. And when I saw that so much of Queen's stuff was D2 I figured there must be something to it.
Therein lies the issue. I assume that whichever I choose I will have to buy a lot to overcome the shipping cost. I am guessing that NJSB would have everything, since they are probably supplying places like USAKM and the ilk. Once I get to that point, I will start asking around.
Hope you feel better.
Well, they used to be. And some of the sets from certain brands will advertise them that way. I am sure the ones you get with a new piece of Ikea are not. But a lot of the old black ones might be... There was an article I read about them back then that said they used D2 because of the kinds of pressures they had to withstand without breaking, or rounding over. Some reference was made to being used for hardened socket head bolts and somehow that had something to do with the choice of making them from D2. Now, I can be talking out by butt, and can't find a link to the original article. IfI can find it I will share it. But then again, even if they were, they probably aren't anymore
I doubt Apex or whoever owns the name "Allan Wrench" controls what they "need" to be made of.Really? NJSB seems to have a fairly high base shipping, at least the last time I looked. Is there somewhere better to buy from?
Wish you the best with the Covid, Bradley, and complete recovery with no LHC issues. Vicious stuff.
I believe I bought the cpm d2 I used from njsb. I could have sworn it was just the regular flat rate usps shipping costs I see everywhere. It's been a while though.