I am currently new to the knife game.I am trying desperatly to learn how to put a good edge on a knife.I am not doing to bad but I am a long way away from getting the results I want.I am currently using the Gatco files and the degree jig.I am filing @ 19 degrees.I am doing it as per instructions.I am getting a desent edge on the blade,but not good enough for me. I want a razor edge.After I am finished filing with this system,I don't know what to do to really fine tune it an I know just like everything else there is tricks to the trade how to really put a sharpe edge on a blade.Do I need to get a better knife sharpening system? Am I doing something wrong?I really just don't know.I have read some of the forums on sharpening and some of the terms they are using are over my head as I am just learning.I would really appreciate some one giving me the basics in general terms.I think this is why a lot of people lose interest in a hobby,because when they first start out they feel so stupid,and I am in that group.But then again I am not afraid to ask a stupid question.I guess it is not a stupid question if you don't know the answer.
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Blade Sharpening (I need help)
- Thread starter Tomax
- Start date
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Tomax, if you don't understand the terms used your should get them straightened out as there is a lot of valuable information out there and if you can't undertand it you are missing out.
Start off with the following :
http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqsharp.html
If you run into something you cannot understand post and ask for clarification.
-Cliff
Start off with the following :
http://www.bladeforums.com/features/faqsharp.html
If you run into something you cannot understand post and ask for clarification.
-Cliff
Cliff is right, the terminology makes a big difference. That being said I'll try and give you some basics.
Firstly when ever you sharpen a knife you create a burr. A burr is a very thin strip of metal. If you sharpen one side of a knife and then feel the other side you'll feel the burr. It is essential when sharpening to remove that burr. Sharpen one side of the knife until a uniform burr appears, then sharpen the other side until the burr disappears. Feel the edge to see if the burr has been removed from both sides. If it's gone you're in business. If it's still there a light stroke or two should remove it. Go through all the stone grits this way.
When you've done than you may want to strop the blade. A strop is a piece of leather with a fine abrasive compound rubbed into it (the compound is similar to what jewelers use to polish rings and such). You take the knife and draw it edge to spline along the strop, just a few stokes on each side is plenty. Some people don't like to strop because while creating a razor-type edge, you lose some of the "bite".
This is just a very basic set of instructions for sharpening which will work regardless of what system you use. I hope this is of some help.
You find also want to look up Joe Talmadge's FAQ on sharpening, it's a classic.
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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
Firstly when ever you sharpen a knife you create a burr. A burr is a very thin strip of metal. If you sharpen one side of a knife and then feel the other side you'll feel the burr. It is essential when sharpening to remove that burr. Sharpen one side of the knife until a uniform burr appears, then sharpen the other side until the burr disappears. Feel the edge to see if the burr has been removed from both sides. If it's gone you're in business. If it's still there a light stroke or two should remove it. Go through all the stone grits this way.
When you've done than you may want to strop the blade. A strop is a piece of leather with a fine abrasive compound rubbed into it (the compound is similar to what jewelers use to polish rings and such). You take the knife and draw it edge to spline along the strop, just a few stokes on each side is plenty. Some people don't like to strop because while creating a razor-type edge, you lose some of the "bite".
This is just a very basic set of instructions for sharpening which will work regardless of what system you use. I hope this is of some help.
You find also want to look up Joe Talmadge's FAQ on sharpening, it's a classic.
------------------
"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
- Joined
- Oct 1, 1999
- Messages
- 6,490
I'm no expert, but I wasn't that bad with my bench stones, however I just received a Spyderco Sharpmaker 204 from MJ&S Knives. This not only puts a really nice edge on a knife, it's also easy and a lot of fun to use. I've resarhpened evrything I could lay my hands on, including a 29 cent potato peeler. In the video that comes with it, Sal Glesser shows you how to sharpen anything, and Sal can shave paper with the spine of a knife. Beside all that, I love the sound it makes when I move the blade down the ceramic sticks, "Siiiiiiiiick, siiiiiiiick, siiiiiick!" Darn thing is just calling my name.
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"Will work 4 Knives!"
Homepage: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=254126
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"Will work 4 Knives!"
Homepage: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=254126
Hi Tomax,
Just do as told, it will work perfectly as soon as you get the "feeling for it".
I do own a Gatco set. It works perfectly, do not worry. One hint: for the very last few strokes, don't use "force".
Happy sharpening.
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D.T. UTZINGER
Just do as told, it will work perfectly as soon as you get the "feeling for it".
I do own a Gatco set. It works perfectly, do not worry. One hint: for the very last few strokes, don't use "force".
Happy sharpening.
------------------
D.T. UTZINGER
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 883
A clarification on stropping:
Drag the blade along the leather with the edge trailing, otherwise you'll cut into it.
David Rock
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AKTI Member # A000846
Stop when you get to bone.
Drag the blade along the leather with the edge trailing, otherwise you'll cut into it.
David Rock
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AKTI Member # A000846
Stop when you get to bone.
- Joined
- Nov 6, 1999
- Messages
- 2,639
Tomax, this is a recurring subject here at blade forums. There are no simple answers. There are a lot of apparently different techniques that can be used to create edges. The angle of the edge, the steel, the sharpening stone grit, and the material to be cut all play roles in determining the 'ideal' edge characteristics.
Whether you are using a sharpening system like the Spyderco 204, or your Gatco system, it will be very helpful for you to read Joe's sharpening FAQ. I also suggest you search the words strop, edge, and sharpening in the general forum archives (both of them).
I usually free hand sharpen on several grades of ceramic stones, and finish on a green polish (chromium oxide) coated leather strop. Stropping is the essential step to get a polished razor sharp edge. Free hand sharpening can be done very quickly, but does take a lot of practice to do well.
I think the most important thing to understand is what is happening at the edge on a very small scale (invisible to the naked eye). Look at these threads for more on this subject:
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/003186.html
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/003531.html
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/002391.html
Good luck. Practice is essential. It took me several months to be able to put a proper edge on my woodcarving tools. Now, maintaining an edge by stropping and resharpening when necessary takes me just a few minutes.
Paracelsus, compulsive stropper
[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 04-06-2000).]
Whether you are using a sharpening system like the Spyderco 204, or your Gatco system, it will be very helpful for you to read Joe's sharpening FAQ. I also suggest you search the words strop, edge, and sharpening in the general forum archives (both of them).
I usually free hand sharpen on several grades of ceramic stones, and finish on a green polish (chromium oxide) coated leather strop. Stropping is the essential step to get a polished razor sharp edge. Free hand sharpening can be done very quickly, but does take a lot of practice to do well.
I think the most important thing to understand is what is happening at the edge on a very small scale (invisible to the naked eye). Look at these threads for more on this subject:
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/003186.html
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/003531.html
www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum32/HTML/002391.html
Good luck. Practice is essential. It took me several months to be able to put a proper edge on my woodcarving tools. Now, maintaining an edge by stropping and resharpening when necessary takes me just a few minutes.
Paracelsus, compulsive stropper
[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 04-06-2000).]
THANKS TO ALL THE ABOVE.My goodnessI never dreamed there are so many helpful people on this site.Thanks to all of you I now know what to do,how to do it,and a much better understanding of my goal,now I have to practice this advise and put into practical application.Again guys thank you so much.I love this web site.
- Joined
- Oct 1, 1999
- Messages
- 6,490
Ah Tomax, we have only just begun. Soon you'll be reading about ingenius ways to test the sharpness of your knives. Like the now famous Toilet Paper Test. Then new ways to dull and destroy your knives if possible. One of our illustrious members (Moderators) is quite proud of using his knife to chop through a pipe. All of this awaits you on your journey to KnifeNutness. Enjoy the ride.
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"Will work 4 Knives!"
Homepage: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=254126
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"Will work 4 Knives!"
Homepage: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=254126
- Joined
- Sep 23, 1999
- Messages
- 3,831
I don't want to parrot what everyone else said, so I won't. But I'll say these two things-
ONE
When trying something new (a new system), test it with a kitchen knife! Either one of your own, a friend's, or go and buy an inexpensive (not cheap!) one for testing. That way if you wreck it, it was a cheaper kitchen knife, and not your $200 folder!
TWO
Keep us posted! Let us know what you try, and how it works. Thats how we all learn!
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"Come What May..."
ONE
When trying something new (a new system), test it with a kitchen knife! Either one of your own, a friend's, or go and buy an inexpensive (not cheap!) one for testing. That way if you wreck it, it was a cheaper kitchen knife, and not your $200 folder!
TWO
Keep us posted! Let us know what you try, and how it works. Thats how we all learn!
------------------
"Come What May..."
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2000
- Messages
- 36
The best sharpening advice I personaly have recived was right here @bladeforums.
A jewelers loupe!
That loupe let me see the edge I liked and the edge I disliked. It became a study of sharpening and not the operation or task of sharpening. Play with different blade types, angles, different stones, but look at what your doing in a jewelers loupe.
Have fun and be safe.
A jewelers loupe!
That loupe let me see the edge I liked and the edge I disliked. It became a study of sharpening and not the operation or task of sharpening. Play with different blade types, angles, different stones, but look at what your doing in a jewelers loupe.
Have fun and be safe.