Blade Sharpening Tips?

[jonahernst]

Hey,

I need some tips on sharpening my blades. I am hoping to get a Spyderco Sharpmaker soon but for now all I have is a mini keychain sized diamond card, and one of those Smith's 3 in one sharpeners. Any tips on how to be effective with either of these? Thanks!

 

[eneyman]

Honestly if you don't know how to properly use flat stones, then the sharpmaker is your best bet. When you get your sharpmaker, my recommendation is to go very slow and make full contact down as much of the blade as possible on each stroke, I learned that when you go too quick you may scuff up your knife which sucks..so go slow and when you stroke the left stone, try tilting your knife slightly to the right so you don't scratch the left side of your blade, and when sharpening on the right side stone, tilt your knife slightly to the left to not scratch the right side of your blade go slow on the brown corner, then brown flat side, then white corners, then white flat side and you will have a very sexy, sharp knife that is not scratched up

 

[jonahernst]

Yea, thanks! I am hoping to pick up a sharpmaker soon.

 

[timberweasel]

Hey,

I need some tips on sharpening my blades. I am hoping to get a Spyderco Sharpmaker soon but for now all I have is a mini keychain sized diamond card, and one of those Smith's 3 in one sharpeners. Any tips on how to be effective with either of these? Thanks!

A little off topic, but until you can get yourself a decent sharpening system, you can actually get a pretty good edge using the unfinished portion of a coffee mug bottom and a little stropping on cardboard, imo. I was surprised, but it works if you don't let your knives get too dull. A steady hand is key. Go lightly.

 

[Mr. Sogetsu]

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/794-Maintenance-Tinkering-amp-Embellishment

There are some threads about sharpening in there I believe.

 

[me2]

You can get a hair shaving edge with what you already have. I have a Sharpmaker and use it a lot, but it is not a complete sharpening system.

Use a permanent marker to color the edge so you can see where the Smith's hones are touching the edge. You can even use the Smiths stand like a ramp and raise one end to the desired angle. For a 6-7 inch long stand, raise one end about 2.5". This will give a 22 ish degree angle. Hold the knife level/parallel to the table top. Take a couple of strokes and see where the marker is scratched off the edge. If there is still marker ink left on the very cutting edge, you are sharpening at an angle less than the existing one. You can keep going on the coarsest stone in the set, and end up (after some work) with a new, lower edge angle. You can also just raise the elevated end of the ramp and increase the angle a little to match the existing angle. Do 10 to 20 strokes on one side, then switch.

Check to see if you have reached the edge and if you can feel a burr on the opposite side you just sharpened. Once you can feel a burr on each side after sharpening, go to the next finer stone, the medium. You're basically just polishing now, so this step likely won't take as long. Recoat with marker if you want and do enough strokes that the coarse scratches are removed. Repeat with the fine stone. A burr may still be present after the fine stone. To remove it, raise the angle a little and do alternating (1 stroke per side) light strokes to remove it. This should yield a sharp edge.

You can actually skip the medium stone and go straight to the fine one and increased angle if you don't mind the coarse finish. For maintenance sharpening, you could just start with the medium stone, then fine. If the knife gets really dull, or gets some nicks or chips, you'll have to start back with the coarse stone again. If you want a toothy, saw like edge, you can deburr on the coarse or medium stone and stop there. I do some of my kitchen knives this way. The medium grit edge will still shave, but not as smoothly or easily.