Blade sharpness help

J

jhutter33

Joined
Nov 8, 2016
Messages
36
I just purchased my first big knife/machete. It passed the paper test but when I felt the edge with my thumb (Not slide) I was able to press down on the edge without breaking the skin. Does this mean an incredibly dull machete or is that normal for that type of blade since it's supposed to be more of a chopper.
 
Hi,

My 2 cents:
Maybe the angle is thick what gives a better and more solid edge for hacking.

Bye ric
 
If you just bought it, it's almost guaranteed it needs sharpening and the blade angle is too obtuse. A file to lay the angle back and a coarse stone to bring it up to thumbnail catching sharp should be enough for a machete.--KV
 
What big knife/machete are you talking about? Sharpening a big knife versus a machete is a bit different in approach for me. I use a coarse stone file for my machetes and sometimes touch them up with a diamond file. It should be sharp, thumb nail catching sharp or there abouts. I handle knives a little differently. If you primarily chop small folliage (briars, and small limbs), then a more acute sharpening angle is my preference. If it is mostly for woody material (small trees, bigger limbs, and so forth), then a more obtuse sharpening angle is desireable. That said, I don't pay that close of attention to the angle as it is difficult to maintain a certain angle sharpening a machete and the steel is generally fairly soft.

Years ago I was always amazed by folks that could sharpen a machete with a bastard file. My attempts were hit or miss, mostly miss.
 
I usually don't like putting the names of specific products out for respect of the company/maker but if it would help... I usually collect knives that are much smaller (like I mentioned before this is my first machete type blade) also the most inexpensive knife I have ever purchased. My own experiment in seeing if price point lies in decoration/function or both and if an inexpensive blade could function as well as one priced much higher. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...d=kwd-360670191837&ref=pd_sl_1u1rk5p081_b_p19
 
Kay, loaded topic.

What are you trying to get at here?

A. Big knives come sharp
B. Differences between knives sized in function/decor/both
C. Small knife efficiency
D. Costs, cheaper will work like pricey
E. New big knives comes sharp

Sometimes, to all. I think.
 
Yes, mostly B. I have some knives such as khukuris and hunting knives that I have come so sharp that I cut myself simply removing it from the package. I am just curious since this is my first machete type blade if the edges are different such as being more concave or should I invest in having it sharpened. I haven't sharpened knives myself.
 
If it's the machete that's linked it's probably as sharp as they come from the factory. You may have gotten lucky in how sharp it is. ;)

Generally, machetes don't come sharp. More often than not the buyer needs to sharpen them up when they get them. Now, a sharp machete is always better then a dull one but you'd be surprised at how much you can do with a barely sharp machete. I had a 24 inch long Colima machete that was dull and could easily take out 1.5 inch thick cotton wood saplings with one stroke. So...use it and see if it needs sharpening. Just be careful of glancing blows. That's the main issue with dull choppers. They glance off rather then stick in.

A cheap machete is an easy tool to learn sharpening on too. Give it a try. Like SUPER easy. :D
 
Gvard said:
I can press down on a hair whittling edge without braking the skin...
Click to expand...
This is true.
Plus, with most machetes, you need to touch them up when you get them. They rarely come sharp. Most that I have bought can't cut through paper until I sharpen them up.
 
Thanks guys. All very helpful. Wasn't sure if I needed to use a stone, or file or as suggested a pull through. Different blades have different angles and specifics. Also this one is 1055 carbon steel. My other knives are mostly higher carbon content.
 
It has been said already. All you need is a bastard and a single cut, diamond, or whetstone.

Use the file to thin the edge a bit, and use the finer sharpening object to refine the apex.

With simple, softer alloys, you don't need much. In a pinch, you can use the smooth side of a cinder block.
 
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