Blade steel VS Cardboard, paper, tape & plastic?

I think I have found the solution to my problem. I've been using a Salt 1 SE for the last 2 1/2 weeks. It seems to have excellent edge retention. Until this blade I was not familiar with serrated blades. This blade seems to rip through just about anything. The serrated edge seems to cut more easily through plastic banding. I've never gone 2 1/2 weeks with having to sharpen my blade. I wonder how long this thing will stay sharp.
 
Isn't the Salt H1 steel? Not sure how hard that is and how well it will hold an edge. It's designed for use around water and salt water. Generally more rust resistant steels trade away edge holding. Funny how you didn't take anyone's advice and went with something completely different. :) Hopefully it will work out for you. When it comes time to sharpen it you should get a Spyderco Sharpmaker as the rods can sharpen the serrations.

The real trick is to routinely touch up your knives on something like the Sharpmaker, before the knife goes dull. A few swipes every day or every ther day will keep your knive sharp and prevent you from spending a lot of time re-sharpening a dulled knife.
 
WadeF said:
Isn't the Salt H1 steel? Not sure how hard that is and how well it will hold an edge. It's designed for use around water and salt water. Generally more rust resistant steels trade away edge holding. Funny how you didn't take anyone's advice and went with something completely different. :) Hopefully it will work out for you. When it comes time to sharpen it you should get a Spyderco Sharpmaker as the rods can sharpen the serrations.

The real trick is to routinely touch up your knives on something like the Sharpmaker, before the knife goes dull. A few swipes every day or every ther day will keep your knive sharp and prevent you from spending a lot of time re-sharpening a dulled knife.
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Wade you maybe correct. Although I have read that the H1 does have good edge retention. The Salt 1 is my brothers knife. He is a knife nut with money to burn and a good brother. Next he is letting me try out a Delica ZDP PE. I act as his proving grounds for knives. After using the Kershaw Scallion HC420 for about 2 years I am giddy to get a decent blade in my hand. I think what I like so much about the Salt 1 is the full serrations. I will report back on the Delica ZDP.
 
I think the Fallkniven U2 would be perfect for you. The edge is Super Gold Powder Steel and hardened to 63 or 64. It holds its edge awesome.
 
The Fallkniven U2 does look nice but I need something that opens quicker. Something with a Spydie hole or a thumb stud. Patience is not one of my virtues.
 
Just an update on blade steel VS Cardboard, paper. tape & plastic. For the last 3 days I have been using a Delica ZDP PE. It is extremely sharp and has held its factory edge. In this time I have opened at least 100 boxes/packages and have cut through plastic wrap on at least 12 pallets. All in all I must say that for this type of work I like a serrated edge better. My only fear is that a plain edge is so much easier to sharpen (at least for me). I know a serrated edge holds is sharpness longer. I still don't know what selection I will make. Maybe a combo edge ZDP is the ultimate answer.
Thanks for all your input.
 
After using the Kershaw Scallion HC420 for about 2 years I am giddy to get a decent blade in my hand.
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Not to get nit picky here Coop, but the Scallion is more than a decent knife. Now if 420HC is not the right steel for the job at hand, fine, but let's not talk like the Scallion as a whole is less than decent.
 
Thomas W
You are right. The Scallion is one of my favorite edc knives. But for this new job and the amount of cutting that I must do the 420HC just doesn't stay sharp very long. I voted for Kershaw in the "best customer service" thread. In this case it is just not the best tool for the job.
 
Get yourself a Fallkniven U2 with the 3G steel. It really cuts a lot of cardboard for me.

ciao
Ron
 
muzzleup said:
Get yourself a Fallkniven U2 with the 3G steel. It really cuts a lot of cardboard for me.

ciao
Ron
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Again, the Falkniven U2 looks like a great blade but I am looking for a knife with a quicker opening system ie.. Spydie hole or thumb stud and a pocket clip. Thanks for the input.
 
its called boxcutter and you can get them at lowes or any home inprovement store for little or nothing and save you money buying (tactical) knifes for the job:)
 
Hey there. I'm new to the forum, just browsing around seeing what there is to see, and thought I'd chime in and suggest this:

http://www.crkt.com/edgie.html

I work in a warehouse and always carry a utility knife, but I often find myself in situations where a bigger and/or sturdier blade is more appropriate so I usually carry a folder too. I'm using a CRKT Crawford/Kasper folder, but I'm thinking about picking up an Edgie myself. As much as I love the Crawford/Kasper, the Edgie seems like it would be more suited as a work knife.
 
First of all, 420HC is a low-budget steel. Not good for hard, repetitive use. IMO, the dilemma you're facing here is edge holding vs. ease of sharpening: a classic trade-off with steel blades.

Those suggesting tool steels like O1 and D2 are quite correct that it'll keep its edge a lot longer. But unless you're fairly skilled at sharpening, you'll have a really hard time getting a decent edge back. S30V may be a decent compromise -- holds an edge well and is a little easier to sharpen.

BUT -- and I suspect very few will agree with me here :) -- I'd recommend something with VG-10 or AUS-8. VG-10 gets wicked sharp, holds an edge fairly well, but it pretty easy to sharpen.

AUS-8 (very under-rated) if done right, is a tough steel that's easy to resharpen. I have a Cold Steel AK-47 (not right for you) in AUS-8 and the blade is really good for for the price (~$50, I think).

Spyderco VG-10 blades are excellent. The mini-persian is about as comfortable a knife as you'll ever handle and the right size. BUT, the blade profile may be a problem for the type of cutting you do.

The Spyderco Viele would be the right blade, although few knives compare well to a Schemp for comfort. Also, I just looked at Cold Steel's site and their Land/Sea rescue looks like a pretty decent prospect. People love to bash Cold Steel in these forums, but like CRKT they make a decent knife at a decent price. For work, better to have something you don't mind getting beat up. I have a Kershaw Chive and a Mini Mojo and customs knives by Terzuola, Ouye, Matsuoka, etc... -- the blade on my CS AK-47 is a really nice blade. The lock up sucks, but the blade in nice. ;)
 
faramir said:
Sounds like your boss is a mall ninja; does he frown upon shovels for digging holes too ? :( Boxcutters have thin blades and are designed just for that specific purpose (and priced accordingly). Just because somebody was clumsy enough to cut himself with one doesn't mean they are inappropriate tool for the job ... what would you boss have said if you told him about all the times you've cut yourself fiddling with your knives ? ;)
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I very much disagree with you here. Except for scoring sheetrock there is no task I wouldn't much rather have a real knife than a boxcutter. Their blades are not exactly sharp, even when brand new, the blade tends to break, they lack control because of the lousy blade/handle integrity, and worst of all, they are the, as far as the knife world goes, the prime example of our throw-away mentality:"Why bother learning how to sharpen a knife? If its blunt, just throw it away". :barf: Which has essentially led to a design where you spend more time changing blades than sharpening if you had a decent knife, not to mention that you might as well throw away the blades right out of the box if you set your sharpness expectations high enough. If you want a thin blade, get a SAK or a Doukdouk.
 
Let me tell you why my boss will not allow box cutter type blades. The previous person in job used a box cutter and there was an accident. The blade broke when he was cutting a box. He apparently left or could not find the broken blade and it remained in the cardboard box. Next day a secretary was handling the box and was cut on the broken blade. Hence no box cutters. This is fine by me. I would rather use a knife of my choice anyway.
As I mentioned before I am testing out my Brother's Delica ZDP PE. So far it has worked out really well. I anticipate a once a week (this may vary) quick session on the Sharpmaker will keep the blade rather sharp. Best of all the cost of the Delica ZPD and the Sharpmaker will be on the companies tab.
 
coop1957 said:
Best of all the cost of the Delica ZPD and the Sharpmaker will be on the companies tab.
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Run, don't walk to the nearest knife shop and buy them. You are in a sweet position. Great knife and you don't have to pay for it. Good for you!
 
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