Blade steel

[Adamclark22]

What kinds of blade steels rust and corrode the fastest if not cared for? I would like to get a TOPS bob but am worried about the steel and was just also wondering what are some good decently priced fixed blades. Thanks

 

[bodog]

Can you give some examples of what it is you want your knife to do? What blade length? How high is your requirement for corrosion resistance? Are you going to beat the living crap out of it or are you going to do pretty normal knife stuff?

If you want to stick to a straight up bushcraft type knife then there are a lot of options. TOPS isn't really known to be spot on with their steel every time. 1095 is pretty easy to corrode but is a good steel if you can keep up with a non-stainless knife.

Not knowing what it is you have experience with and since you're talking about a knife like the BOB then I'd really suggest getting something like a Mora or equivalent to see if you like that kind of knife to begin with.

This will do whatever a TOPS BOB will do at a far cheaper price. You can test the blade shape and whatnot and if you don't like it you can give it to a boy scout or something if you end up not liking it.
http://www.moraofsweden.se/adventure/companion-heavy-duty-mg

If you're already pretty sure you need a beefy blade then I'd suggest an ESEE. They have better quality control, have a pretty damned good warranty, and cost less.

1095 can corrode in a humid environment in less than a day. It doesn't really pit, surface rust is usually fairly easy to clean off unless you've neglected it. Patina will develop, it's not bad unless you just don't like the look of it.

 

[Thomas Linton]

The TOPS BOB blade is mad of 1095 steel. 1095 is used for agricultural implements like disks, plows and harrows. I assure you that farmers do not clean and oil these tools after use in the fields. So 1095 is not super prone to serious rust. ((Mineral Oil is food grade and need not be removed before use of the knife on food.)

A wipe off after use and oil before storage has kept generations of 1095 (AKA "cutlery steel") knife in play.

 

[shinyedges]

Generally it goes like this:

Simple Carbon steels (low allow)rust the easiest -1095,1080,1055,5160 and so forth

Semi stainless steels or high alloy carbon steels have pretty good rust resistance - D2 steel, cpm 3v, INFI (busse only)

Stainless steels have the best rust resistance - s30v, 154cm/cpm 154, elmax , m390 and so forth

Depending on your needs and uses each steel has advantages and draw backs, some are more well rounded than others but cost more$.


Also rust proof steels are available like H1 if you need absolutely maximum rust resistance but they sacrifice in other areas in order to be virtually impervious to rust.

This is very GENERAL hope it helps

 

[Thomas Linton]

5160 is used for vehicle leaf springs - out there with the salty slush.

There is rust and rust. Pitting is a bigger worry than thin surface rust.

Generally, reputable companies use reputable materials. You are relying on their expertise.

 

[shinyedges]

I get what your saying but I live in northern Michigan just above you in Ohio so I know you've seen old vehicles with thick leaf springs that are pitted and rusty... if it weren't for the shear thickness they would fail significantly earlier.

That said, most any knife steel including 5160 doesn't rust away within years even when neglected. But it WILL rust pretty severely.

5160 is used for vehicle leaf springs - out there with the salty slush.

There is rust and rust. Pitting is a bigger worry than thin surface rust.

Generally, reputable companies use reputable materials. You are relying on their expertise.

 

[knarfeng]

What kinds of blade steels rust and corrode the fastest if not cared for?

To answer the specific question, "Straight carbon steel rusts the fastest."
That does not necessarily make it unsuitable for an outdoors blade.

 

[Cobalt]

I have hand me down carbon steel knives that are still great knives to this day. The Rust issue isn't as big a deal if you maintain your equipment

 

[dingy]

I have hand me down carbon steel knives that are still great knives to this day. The Rust issue isn't as big a deal if you maintain your equipment

there are some steels more prone to rust than carbon steels , m2 m4 for example.

 

[EChoil]

I know the B.O.B. is one of the best reviewed knives out there for outdoor and bushcraft. You going to turn it down because of steel??

 

[shinyedges]

For what the b.o.b costs I say put that money toward a handmade blade from a knifemaker here on bladeforums. Better steel, more precision in detail as well as heat treat.. well worth it.

 

[knarfeng]

there are some steels more prone to rust than carbon steels , m2 m4 for example.

Please cite data.

edited to clarify:
Please cite corrosion rate data.

 

[TravisH]

Rust? *pffft*

As already noted, with just minimal care, rust is not an issue.

A 'user' will not remain pristine. The first signs of rust is surface rust which can be removed easily with a little scrubbing.

With thick blades like the TOPS, even neglected, it would take years before rust could actually affect performance.

 

[Big Bo]

For what the b.o.b costs I say put that money toward a handmade blade from a knifemaker here on bladeforums. Better steel, more precision in detail as well as heat treat.. well worth it.

Really? I paid $110 for my BOB. I would like a semi custom, or custom but figure it would set me back at least $200+. I have looked, point me in the direction of a custom for the price of a BOB..

 

[bodog]

Really? I paid $110 for my BOB. I would like a semi custom, or custom but figure it would set me back at least $200+. I have looked, point me in the direction of a custom for the price of a BOB..

First off, custom and small/single batch production knives are different. A custom will probably cost a little more because you're taking up the maker's time sending and receiving emails, going over drawings, nitpicking over small details, finding materials that you specify, etc. Small batch productions are not made to your exact specifications but they ARE generally made with better QC than large batch productions such as what spyderco and ZT produce, if you find a good maker anyway.

Here's one in AEBL. It should exhibit a similar performance to 1095 except that it's stain resistant where 1095 isn't. It's a damned good looking knife, too, especially for only 70 bucks. I think he makes a kydex sheath for his knives for something like an additional 20 bucks. I'd bet it could run circles around a tops knife.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...anvas-Micarta-Handles?p=15290517#post15290517

And here's one that is 1095 for the same normal street price of a BOB.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1336121-First-post-intro-and-sales-thread

Here's a helluva nice slicer in 80CrV2 that was listed for $115 before it sold.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1334326-Utility-Knife-*Bargain-sale*-SOLD

Here's one in 1084 (kind of similar to 1095) with a nice wet formed and dyed leather sheath for the same street price as a BOB.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1333545-Forged-1084-Utility-Hunter

 

[jpm2]

there are some steels more prone to rust than carbon steels , m2 m4 for example.

Not in my experience. M2 and M4 are less prone to rust than low alloy carbons.

 

[Insipid Moniker]

Rust? *pffft*

As already noted, with just minimal care, rust is not an issue.

A 'user' will not remain pristine. The first signs of rust is surface rust which can be removed easily with a little scrubbing.

With thick blades like the TOPS, even neglected, it would take years before rust could actually affect performance.

Not really. Sure, it wouldn't hurt the toughness of the blade for many years, but corrosion along the edge can have an adverse effect on edge retention much, much more quickly.

That said, being in humid Ohio I wouldn't hesitate to haul an uncoated 1095 blade out into the woods.

 

[shinyedges]

I said HANDMADE not custom. And I also said put the cost of a b.o.b TOWARDS a HANDMADE knife.

I recently picked up a hand made knife in 3v from big Chris for 190.00 shipped. With a bad ass typhoon kydex sheath.

For a little extra money you can get HUGE improvements in steel, geometry, heat treat.. and an exceptional handmade knife. Plus support a bladeforums maker... that's a pretty big plus for me.. ill be doing it more often for sure.

For within the price of the b.o.b handmade blades can be picked up in the knife makers for sale area, regularly and if you keep an eye some SUPER deals pop up.

Really? I paid $110 for my BOB. I would like a semi custom, or custom but figure it would set me back at least $200+. I have looked, point me in the direction of a custom for the price of a BOB..

 

[shinyedges]

Ive only used m4 out of the two steels he mentioned, but I agree it has slightly more resistance to rust than plain Jane 1095... it does have 4 % chromium.

Dude makes baseless claims.

Not in my experience. M2 and M4 are less prone to rust than low alloy carbons.

 

[shinyedges]

Agreed.

Not really. Sure, it wouldn't hurt the toughness of the blade for many years, but corrosion along the edge can have an adverse effect on edge retention much, much more quickly.

That said, being in humid Ohio I wouldn't hesitate to haul an uncoated 1095 blade out into the woods.