Blade steel

For a little extra money you can get HUGE improvements in steel, geometry, heat treat.. and an exceptional handmade knife. Plus support a bladeforums maker... that's a pretty big plus for me.. ill be doing it more often for sure.

For within the price of the b.o.b handmade blades can be picked up in the knife makers for sale area, regularly and if you keep an eye some SUPER deals pop up.

:thumbup:
 
there are some steels more prone to rust than carbon steels , m2 m4 for example.

Dingy, I cannot imagine a time when any element added to a base carbon steel will make it worse than plain carbon steel. Iron is the number one reason why steel corrodes. The less iron you have in a steel, the more corrosion resistant it is. Thus even adding 1% more of any element will make it more corrosion resistant. That does not mean they cannot corrode, just that they should offer more resistance than a steel that has little or no other elements. M2 has 13-14% less Iron than 1095 steel so in theory it should not corrode as easily as 1095.
 
1099 has been widely used for generations for farm plows, disks, rakes, and harrows - out in the mud hitting rocks and put away covered in wet mud. Yet, it seems to be acceptable for such use - far worse than anything typically inflicted on knives - unless you put them away wet with blood.
 
Why not get a steel that will never ever positively not rust? Here are some ideas available at a reasonable price. Spyderco SALT


 
Conditions of use can vary a lot, this is the most important factor. It has only been in somewhat recent years that stainless has been in wide use, previously carbon steel was used by everybody. It's only a problem in the worst conditions. I have several folding knives with M4 that I carry for EDC use and after 3 or 4 years one of them is barely starting a patina. OTOH I have another knife in M4 that I use around the house/garage/workshop/yard as a work knife. It doesn't have a problem with rust except one time when I was working in the yard and sweating a lot. The rust wiped right off.

I don't worry a bit about carrying carbon steel blades and I don't typically give them special treatment. If I was in an area where rust was more of a problem I would oil the blade occasionally.
 
1099 has been widely used for generations for farm plows, disks, rakes, and harrows - out in the mud hitting rocks and put away covered in wet mud. Yet, it seems to be acceptable for such use - far worse than anything typically inflicted on knives - unless you put them away wet with blood.

Why not get a steel that will never ever positively not rust? Here are some ideas available at a reasonable price. Spyderco SALT



Conditions of use can vary a lot, this is the most important factor. It has only been in somewhat recent years that stainless has been in wide use, previously carbon steel was used by everybody. It's only a problem in the worst conditions. I have several folding knives with M4 that I carry for EDC use and after 3 or 4 years one of them is barely starting a patina. OTOH I have another knife in M4 that I use around the house/garage/workshop/yard as a work knife. It doesn't have a problem with rust except one time when I was working in the yard and sweating a lot. The rust wiped right off.

I don't worry a bit about carrying carbon steel blades and I don't typically give them special treatment. If I was in an area where rust was more of a problem I would oil the blade occasionally.
This thread is 5 years old, ya goofs.
 
94vPlxL.jpg


Carry on.
 
1099 has been widely used for generations for farm plows, disks, rakes, and harrows - out in the mud hitting rocks and put away covered in wet mud. Yet, it seems to be acceptable for such use - far worse than anything typically inflicted on knives - unless you put them away wet with blood.
They're often made with a thick coating to protect from rust. On areas where the coating would be worn off, any rust that forms would be quickly rubbed off as well during use.
 
Why not get a steel that will never ever positively not rust? Here are some ideas available at a reasonable price. Spyderco SALT

Because you put a higher value, as is your right, on abrasion resistance, toughness, or strength?

Glass will never ever rust.
 
They're often made with a thick coating to protect from rust. On areas where the coating would be worn off, any rust that forms would be quickly rubbed off as well during use.
Coatings rarely protect the area where corrosion presents the greatest risk to function - the edge.
 
We are talking about knives, not glass.

Sigh. It must be so great to be young.

pejmoqw.png


"Modern glass knives were once the blade of choice for the ultra-thin sectioning required in transmission electron microscopy because they can be manufactured by hand and are sharper than softer metal blades because the crystalline structure of metals makes it impossible to obtain a continuous sharp edge.[4] The advent of diamond knives, which keep their edge much longer and are more suitable for cutting hard materials, quickly relegated glass knives to a second-rate status. However, some labs still use glass knives because they are significantly less expensive than diamond knives. A common practice is to use a glass knife to cut the block which contains the sample to near the location of the specimen to be examined. Then the glass knife is replaced by a diamond blade for the actual ultrathin sectioning. This extends the life of the diamond blade which is used only when its superior performance is critical[citation needed]. Obsidian, a naturally occurring volcanic glass, can also be used to make sharp glass knives; obsidian surgical scalpels are available commercially. All these blades are brittle and very easily broken if not used with care."

They were also sold as "ideal" for cutting acidic fruit.
 
Speaking of which, how do I sharpen my 3.5 micron EDC glass knife?

Exactly. Hence, steel - a more practical set of characteristics.

Glass knives can have edges measure in nanometers ( 1/1000 of a microcron ), but ...

The very corrosion resistant SS in the Salt has relatively low strength and abrasion-resistance. Pretty good toughness for SS. Depends on what characteristics that you seek. For some, a non-SS steel "fills the bill."
 
Last edited:
Back
Top