Blade Steels

The Mastiff said:
For a knife I can't realisticly get now I'd take S125V,CPM M4, CPM 15V, T1 and several japanese steels that I'll never see in my lifetime in a knife here.
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Try Carpenters Maxamet, it has shown an increase in tool life of 300% over T15 :

http://www.cartech.com/products/wr_products_tool_maxamet.html?leftn=cpp&lefto=empty&lefti=cpp_tds0

The hardness is 70+ hrc and the wear resistance is extreme. It is used either as a high hardness/wear upgrade to conventional HSS such as T15 or as a high toughness upgrade for cemented tungsten carbide. Most manufacturers have these "bridge" alloys.

-Cliff
 
I'm kind of surprised no one hasd mentioned S7 or S5 for a big fixed blade. Easily my favorite. For smaller blades i have some M4 on the way, and i'm hopeful...
 
Larrin said:
It has excellent corrosion resistance, I've never seen heat treated AEB-L with a spot of rust on it. Some Kershaw users have seen rust spots with 13C26, but those were all bead blasted blades.
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Kershaw is also running it soft and there are many ways this will reduce the corrosion resistance. In particular for example there is a 30% increase in dissolved chromium in Uddeholm's UHB stainless 46 (very similar steel razor blade steel) when austenized at 1100 C vs 1000 C. In general the stainless steels should be ran towards the upper end of the hardening temperature to maximize corrosion resistance and require oil/cold + low tempers. This same hardening will also maximize hardness and edge stability.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Try Carpenters Maxamet, it has shown an increase in tool life of 300% over T15 :

http://www.cartech.com/products/wr_products_tool_maxamet.html?leftn=cpp&lefto=empty&lefti=cpp_tds0

The hardness is 70+ hrc and the wear resistance is extreme. It is used either as a high hardness/wear upgrade to conventional HSS such as T15 or as a high toughness upgrade for cemented tungsten carbide. Most manufacturers have these "bridge" alloys.

-Cliff
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Do you know of anyone who uses it?
 
i like 12c27 from sandvik, beacuse its tough, it haandles lots of abuse and doesnt snap for nothing. i also like s30v for the edgeholding, but its a bitch to sharpen, to get a really good edge on it you need diamonds.
 
VG10 and ATS34/154CM. And maybe AUS10 once I use it enough.

Because they get sharp with reasonable effort,
are stain resistant in my usage pattern
hold the acquired edge through a great deal of cutting,
are tough enough to accept being used to cut non-std items without chipping, and
can be found in knives in my price range.

Any Steel I want? I think I like ATS34/154CM the best(through pure subjectivity). "Please sir, may I have some more?"
 
My favorite is VG-10...Takes a ridiculous edge in no time. Keeps said edge well..:)
 
CPM3V, twice as tough as A2, Almost four times that of D2 and more than double the wear resistance, even though it only has about 7 % chrome it is very stain resistant, I think about on par with D 2. I use knifes as cutting tools and treat them as such so I like to heat treat 3V to about 62 RC and set the edge to about 12-14 degrees. It is fantastic combination that gets a very sharp edge that holds very well. However you will need DMT diamond stones to sharpen it, unless you have got all day.
http://www.crucibleservice.com/datash/ds3Vv5b.pdf?CFID=1021242&CFTOKEN=24133669

Leon Pugh
 
154 CM. Need I say more?? This is the best combination of stain resistance with edge holding capabilities that can be easliy sharpened in the field. Sorry S30V!!
 
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