BLADE STOP PIN extend its life x6

Thin-Slice

Thin-Slice

Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
1,165
Hello folks not sure if this was mentioned before or anyone had thought about it but in regards to the STOP PIN on a folding knife. We all know that over time as people love to flick their knives open the stop pin area that touches the blade will dent over time. It mit be microscopic at first but overtime it might be noticiable. I have thought of a fix that will give the STOP PIN about 6-Lifetimes.

The stop pin that goes into the nest of th handles to be made of a HEX screw shape. That will allow you to rotate the stop pin 6 times and have 6 fresh untouched/dented surface areas.

Of course i mention 6 lifetimes because of the HEX shape having 6 equal side but you get the idea if thats not working you can do square (4 sides) or pentagon (5 sides) etc.

Additionally it will prevnent the stop pin from rotating on its own.

I have just emailed this idea to Chris Reeve thru his website dont know if this was a good idea or not but regardless.


Any thoughts on the idea? Or has it been mentioned before?
 
Thin-Slice said:
The stop pin that goes into the nest of th handles to be made of a HEX screw shape. That will allow you to rotate the stop pin 6 times and have 6 fresh untouched/dented surface areas.

Of course i mention 6 lifetimes because of the HEX shape having 6 equal side but you get the idea if thats not working you can do square (4 sides) or pentagon (5 sides) etc.

Additionally it will prevnent the stop pin from rotating on its own.
Click to expand...

But if a circlular stop pin rotates on its own, then EACH time the stop pin is hit, it will be hit on a "fresh spot."

Think of it this way...6 sides? Wouldn't 20 sides be better? 50? 100? 1000? As the number of sides goes up, you are approaching a round stop pin.
 
Also a round stop pin minimizes the area of contact between the blade and the pin. Less area of contact=more fresh pin
 
marcinek said:
Also a round stop pin minimizes the area of contact between the blade and the pin. Less area of contact=more fresh pin
Click to expand...

Combine that with a lock that has room to wear like a liner, frame, axis, ball bearing, etc. and you've got one hell of a long life.

Frankly, if you flick open a quality knife enough to wear out the stop pin, what you need is not a different pin; it's a few more knives. Or an additional hobby.
 
Keep after it though. Somebody's gotta think of the next big thing. May as well be you.

I should also mention, as a purely aesthetic touch, a hexagonal stop pin would look great.
 
Ok i think i was slightly misunderstood. The stop pin would still be round just the small part that fits into the handles would be HEX, not the part that touches the blade.
 
marcinek said:
But if a circlular stop pin rotates on its own, then EACH time the stop pin is hit, it will be hit on a "fresh spot."

Think of it this way...6 sides? Wouldn't 20 sides be better? 50? 100? 1000? As the number of sides goes up, you are approaching a round stop pin.
Click to expand...

To an extend u r correct with the x20 and so on but it wouldnt be a good stop if more than 6 because the corners would be smaller and get smaller with increasing number and like u said would eventlually become round.

The idea is that if the stop pin was fully round all around u could NOT guarantee or manually move to new round surface area. With the hex u get a guarantee that it will be a fresh surface area. Whilst with a round stop pin it might not rotate because of tightening down the pivot n so on and therefore might not rotate at all
 
Sidenote: not sure of technicality but wouldnt it be a stronger lockup if the but of the blade that touches the stop pin be rounded so as to fit into the stop pin perfectly. Wont this reduce up/down woble or help with the lock (linerlock, framelock, etc).
 
It would be strange for CRK to tell you not to flick your knives, but then to come out with a feature that somewhat condones that action.

Just my take on it. Don't let this stop you from thinking about improvements as posted earlier.
 
bhyde said:
It would be strange for CRK to tell you not to flick your knives, but then to come out with a feature that somewhat condones that action.

Just my take on it. Don't let this stop you from thinking about improvements as posted earlier.
Click to expand...

Car manufacturers didn't start putting airbags and seatbelts into cars to encourage reckless driving - just to protect against it when it happens.
 
bhyde said:
It would be strange for CRK to tell you not to flick your knives, but then to come out with a feature that somewhat condones that action.

Just my take on it. Don't let this stop you from thinking about improvements as posted earlier.
Click to expand...

We need to actually have a problem before we can start putting together ideas for a solution....

I am not sure how many time you have to flick a knife open really hard before there is not only deformation on the stop-pin, but that is actually becomes an issue that effects your ability to use the knife.

I know it's happened, but it's really rare....If it wasn't, this forum's knife flickers (including me) would be posting about it...
 
I, for one, have never noticed wearing of the stop-pin on any of my knives. Indeed, the scales or liners holding the pin in place are more likely to wear first from snap/flick openings as those are usually softer and thinner (i've experienced this on aluminum-scaled knives in my younger days, and just try it on an FRN ultralight ;) )

Is this a "solution" in search of a problem? Has ANYONE ever had this "worn stop-pin" problem?
 
Thin-Slice said:
The idea is that if the stop pin was fully round all around u could NOT guarantee or manually move to new round surface area. With the hex u get a guarantee that it will be a fresh surface area. Whilst with a round stop pin it might not rotate because of tightening down the pivot n so on and therefore might not rotate at all
Click to expand...

Then you could just let it freely move giving an infinite (kinda) number of areas, not just six.
 
Thin-Slice said:
To an extend u r correct with the x20 and so on but it wouldnt be a good stop if more than 6 because the corners would be smaller and get smaller with increasing number and like u said would eventlually become round.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the flat areas get smaller? Thats where you want the blade to hit the pin, in the flats, correct? The more flats the better. More fresh areas.

Same holds true if you want the blade to hit the corners. The more corners, the more fresh corners.

:confused: Maybe we or I are missong something. Can you draw a picture, take a pic of what you have drawn, and post it?
 
Why not make it a concentric pin that's held in by flathead machine screws, this way you could rotate the pin to take up the slack as the pivot, lock and tang wear?

Wait didn't they do something like that with the Cold Steel UltraLoc? One of the spacer pins was concentric and would slide the liner lock forward to to adjust the gap between tang and face of the liner lock.

I gotta agree with Marci, a round pin presents near infinite points of contact makin' for a longer wearin' pin but in 40 years of usin' for work, collectin' and learnin' about knives I've never had to flip a knife so hard that the shock would place undue stress on the stop pin, pivot or tang. The only reason to flip a knife is for the satisfaction of a well made knife and the feel of tight tolerances at work. It just feels right but if you treat it right there's no need to overbuild.

Here's a knife that's over a 100 years old and it's as tight and well made today as it was back in 1911 nothin' unique or different than has been done for nearly 200 years. You don't need worry about most wear issues as you'll most likely run outta blade long before the pins go if all you do is cut with it.

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After all it's a knife meant to cut, that is all. BTW welcome to the forums. :)
 
marcinek said:
Also a round stop pin minimizes the area of contact between the blade and the pin. Less area of contact=more fresh pin
Click to expand...

OR it maximizes the area of contact by having a round blade tang(reference most of Cold Steel triad folders). More area of contact=less wear in any particular spot
Assuming we have good tolerance where the blade tang is actually contacting the stop pin in bigger surface area
 
hkyew said:
OR it maximizes the area of contact by having a round blade tang(reference most of Cold Steel triad folders). More area of contact=less wear in any particular spot
Assuming we have good tolerance where the blade tang is actually contacting the stop pin in bigger surface area
Click to expand...

This is assuming that the stop pin has the same radius as the blade tang. If the tang has a larger radius, you would have less contact since you're tangent to the surface. I have a knife with this design, and the radii do not match up.

More area of contact=more wear in all mating spots
 
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