Blade Thickness and Heat Treat Question

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KrabbyKakes

Joined
Jun 22, 2013
Messages
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I'm making a knife for me and my brother and I was wondering if an 1/8th inch thick blade would work. The blade would be about four to six inches long and would mainly be used for EDC tasks but also may do wood processing. Do you think this thickness would be OK for battoning? I have already made two knives out of files and they are an 1/8 inch thick and they seem pretty sturdy but the blades are less than 4 inches and I don't know if a longer blade would emphasize the thinness. I just don't want to spend $80 on supplies and have the knives be unusable or even worse, break.

Also, is heat treating different for high carbon and stainless steels. I am assuming that to heat treat 1095 or 440C all you have to do is heat up the blade to a non-magnetic temperature and then quench in oil but I wasn't sure if you have to take different steps for different steels.


Thanks in advance,
KrabbyKakes
 
KrabbyKakes said:
I'm making a knife for me and my brother and I was wondering if an 1/8th inch thick blade would work. The blade would be about four to six inches long and would mainly be used for EDC tasks but also may do wood processing. Do you think this thickness would be OK for battoning? I have already made two knives out of files and they are an 1/8 inch thick and they seem pretty sturdy but the blades are less than 4 inches and I don't know if a longer blade would emphasize the thinness. I just don't want to spend $80 on supplies and have the knives be unusable or even worse, break.

Also, is heat treating different for high carbon and stainless steels. I am assuming that to heat treat 1095 or 440C all you have to do is heat up the blade to a non-magnetic temperature and then quench in oil but I wasn't sure if you have to take different steps for different steels.


Thanks in advance,
KrabbyKakes
Click to expand...

I like 1/8"
Thin is in.


Bad assumption on heat and dunk on 1095 and 440C

If that's all you have is low tech HT ability 1084 is most suited for that.
 
If you're looking to HT in the "backyard", then 1084 and/or O1 are the way to go. The other steels require a soak at critical temperature for specified periods of time, depending on the steel. Read, read, read about HT. And then read some more.
 
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Thanks for te advice guys. How is O1 with rusting? The knives i made out of files rust in the blink of an eye and its a pain. Would 1084 rust easily as well? Also i read somewhere that you can qeunch in vegetable oil instead of motor. It makes sense to me because i thought it was all about bringing the temperature down fast but i figured i should ask.
 
KrabbyKakes said:
How is O1 with rusting?
Click to expand...

Pretty bad, actually. 1084 is, oddly enough, noticeably better at resisting corrosion. 1084 is also much less expensive, and you are far more likely to bring it to its full potential with very basic HT methods.
 
OK so O1 is out. How is 1084 compared to 1095 and 1080. Can I heat treat them myself and does one have any better corrosion resistance?
 
1080 and 1084 heat treat about the same. 1095 needs precise temp control, a soak at temperature and commercial quenching oil, or the risky brine quench. You could always send the blade for professional heat treat, and use D2, or a stainless if corrosion is a major concern. Rubbing a little cooking oil, or pam on the blade protects it from rust, and etching it in white vinegar will protect it a little as well.
 
Sgt John said:
If you're looking to HT in the "backyard", then 1084 and/or O1 are the way to go. The other steels require a soak at critical temperature for 30+ minutes, depending on the steel. Read, read, read about HT. And then read some more.
Click to expand...

1095 only needs about 10 minutes at temp before the quench. Just FYI.
 
Thanks for the correction. I updated my post. Guess I should read some more, huh?
 
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Sgt John said:
Thanks for the correction. I updated my post. Guess I should read some more, huh?
Click to expand...

Yes, and you need more heat than simply non-magnetic. Non-magnetic is 1414°. For steels above .8% carbon you try for around 1475°. For those below, about 1500°, and with some a bit higher. If going by color, one shade of red above non-magnetic for the former. Two shades for the latter.
 
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