Blog article for beginners.

gilgsn

gilgsn

Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Messages
14
Hello,

Being a beginner at forging, I wrote a short article with what I think are time-saving tips and advise on starting this hobby. Because I am new at this, I would like some peer reviews and suggestions about things to add (or remove/change) in the article.

Thank you!

Gil.

http://keskydee.com/wordpress/archives/577
 
Nice, few things since you asked.
It's "tongs" not "tongues".
Please put a safety disclaimer on your blog.
Charcoal isn't really cheap unless you make your own and you consider your time cheap.
I've never used a forge with more than one burner because I don't make large large blades.
You might want to address dressing a hammer face and a junkyard anvil face.
I'd also add wearing a leather apron, long sleeve NATURAL fiber shirt and a hat with a brim.
Recommend forging in the shade to see colors.

Looks good to me.
 
Thank you very much! What is hammer and anvil face dressing? Ah, I found out, googled it.. Rounding the corners.. Hum, it would seem to me that a sharp edge would help in getting the edge as close to the desired shape as possible.. The hammer, definitely..
Gil.
 
Last edited:
Sharp edges=stress risers.... coarse sanding scratches are sometimes enough of a stress riser to cause a blade to break during a quench, think about what that nice sharp edge on an anvil or hammer would do. A lot of us also put a nice finish on our hammer faces, why bother trying to make something smooth if you're whacking it with a coarse faced hammer?

The neat thing about your blog is that it's letting you document the trials and tribulations and share them. Kinda like the electronic version of the scars and variety of charred stuff around our shop.

You may also want to really stress picking one steel and learning it very well. Include logging your steps every time you work a blade, few things are as aggravating as coming up with a great blade and forgetting how you got there.
 
Cool man :thumbup:

"Don’t move the blade sideways while it cools" is correct - but you do need to agitate -front to back like you're chopping with it

You might mention quench oil. A lot of folks resist getting a proper quench oil. At the very least, they should not use motor oil - it is too thick and it leaves a lot of burnt on crap on the blade. Thin oil, such as ATF or thin mineral oil is fast enough to quench most stuff (1084 for example) - but is still borderline for 1095 etc. Beware the fumes and fire hazard. Or spend $60 and get the 11 second oil from McMaster and don't worry about it.

Love your anvil :thumbup:
 
Thanks guys, great advise, which I am incorporated to the page! I will document my experiences as I go...

Gil.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top