Blue M Kiln?

I don't know anything about it other than that these guys have been in biz since the 40's. I would think they'd have it dialed in...
 
if it can get to the temps you need and hold temp I would say it is worth $500
do you have the power capability? 220v?
 
I can't see much detail, and you don't give any specs like wattage, chamber size, etc. They are also only good for HT up to 1600°F. Even if the dial says 2000°, it won't do it.
Based on what I see:

Those ovens regularly sell in the $200-300 range.
It will work, but is an analog control and a may be a smaller chamber. For a little more, you can get a knife HT oven with a set-pro or similar controller.
 
I'll agree that I'd pass on that kiln personally. It's pretty hard to beat the value of a new Evenheat with a TAP controller at this point, you can get an 18" one for what? $1000? That's for something that's intuitive, and will work out of the box, with little fiddle factor.


On the other hand, if you like tinkering, and long term, need multiple HT ovens like I do, don't discount the old industrial units, just because they have analogue controls. Most of these can easily be converted to PID or other modern controllers, pretty easily with some electrical knowledge, and are "true" industrial units, that offer many advantages over our "hobby" grade knifemaker kilns (not that these kilns do any less of a good job, they just usually aren't as heavily built, insulated, and refined from a physical standpoint).

I have a killer old Blue M kiln, that has a 6x6x20" chamber but has a case about twice the size as the one you show (sits about 3' high off the floor), I put it on casters, and converted it to PID. I'm planning to convert it further to a TAP controller soon. It's a beast, has element "modules" with three double runs of coil, that snap in and out on both the sides and the roof, specially made entry brick enclosures to the elements, etc.

I used the existing mercury relay that was hooked up to the original "high tech" at the time, honeywell solid state manual set controller, as a safety switch for my door (which already had a contactor there), in line as a physical cut-off for the PID to SSRs, and upgraded to SSR's for element control. Damn thing will only loose a few hundred degrees of temp over night after I shut it off, if I don't leave the door open, and holds temp perfectly with much quicker rebound than my knifemaking kiln.
 
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