Blued Mild steel (1018) and rust

Karl B. Andersen said:
The black hot-bluing is something I will NEVER!! regret purchasing and offering on my knives.
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Karl, I've always admired your hot bluing. Thanks for sharing the video, although it does look rather complex. Any suggestions how to go about setting up for hot bluing? What stuff (and where) did you buy (it)? One of the things I've noticed with hot bluing setups, is the "escaping" salts growing around the outside of the holding pot/tank. Any suggestions/comments about that?
 
Phil Dwyer said:
Karl, I've always admired your hot bluing. Thanks for sharing the video, although it does look rather complex. Any suggestions how to go about setting up for hot bluing? What stuff (and where) did you buy (it)? One of the things I've noticed with hot bluing setups, is the "escaping" salts growing around the outside of the holding pot/tank. Any suggestions/comments about that?
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The gunsmiths I've seen that hot blue all have a seperate shack detached from the house and shop to do it in.

The tanks asre just black steel tanks and the burners are black pipe with a series of holes - plus a simple cheap regulator like we use in forges.
 
I always stop to see any of your work that shows up. It's always of the very best quality, and most enjoyable for sure !!! Karl, you say you use 3000 grit to clean off the blades. It does look like the b luing process has actually etched the carbon steel part of the metal, or is it that the difference in hgardness between the carbon steel and 15N20 makes this happen? Is there a special way you go about doing this fine sanding? Thank you for any respons. Frank
 
Don't forget, 15N20 is carbon steel as well!
It just has a little nickel that keeps it from etching, which creates highs and lows.
The bluing process turns the entire blade completely black. It's just bluing the iron in the steels and doesn't know the difference between the two.
Then I sand the bluing off the "high" 15N20 to exaggerate the pattern.
As well, consider that the "lows" are now protected by being hot blued.
The oils used in the process are water displacing oils from Brownell's, as are the salts.

There is a considerable set-up cost for the salts, oil and tanks, but after that there's no real expense other than time.

Phil, the salts "creep" with the evaporation of the water - not much can be done about it other than eliminate as much evaporation as possible. I've devised a plastic cover for my tanks which help some.
It's not a big deal and more of an annoyance than anything.
Part of the game.
Set up, get going on it, and you and your customers will be glad you did. :thumbup:
 
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