Bluing Question

SteelSlaver

SteelSlaver

Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
3,375
I know this isn't a gunsmith forum, but, some around and a lot of bluing experience too.

I have an S&W that was originally a 45 ACP with the 1/2 moon clips. I have rechambered a 44 special cylinder to 45 LC. Yes a S&W 45 ACP-45LC convertible and I cast and size my LC bullets to .452 btw. I have also turned the barrel down and made a sleeve for it to make it into a heavier barrel. I have added S&W adjustable sights. I am making an ejector shroud for it now. While the gun is in very good shape, the blue is worn off in spots and I want to refinish and have everything match. What is the best way to remove all the old bluing. Should I just sand it off with say 1200 grit paper or use something else? Thanks Jim

PS. I used to shoot practical revolver courses and am thinking about restarting. A heavy 45ACP revolver would be great for this if you are a wheel gun nut. Using the full moon clips that hold 6 rounds means very fast reloads, easy brass pick up and big holes and with light loads very slight recoil. I have also done quite a bit of successful handgun hunting and I don't believe that at reasonable ranges (under 100 yards) a good 45LC gives much away to a 44 mag. I have had 3 44 mags btw. 2 S&W and one Ruger that I put a 14" barrel on. I even made a S&W 41 mag and used it for a while. I love Smiths.
 
Contact Ron Ryder, who occassionally is on the sheath forum (Backroomleather.com)
He is a competent gunsmith. Tell him I sent ya. bruce/birdog
 
jim, you could try buffing the old bluing off. there is a chemical that will remove it too but i cant remember what it is. i used some many years ago when i used to refinish guns
 
You can purchase "Steel White" from Brownell's. It does a great job of stripping bluing and also removes rust.

I typically will remove the old finish during the sanding and polishing of the piece and then give it a soak in Steel White before bluing to insure that all of the rust is gone.

Once you start sanding/polishing; you will be amazed at the amount of pitting that you will find on the gun. Even if the gun doesn't show many signs of rust/pitting, there will be a lot show up as you work on it. Your bluing job will only look as good as the prep work on the metal. If you leave pits in the steel, it will show up in your bluing.
 
+1 on buffing it off. I'd use #2 gray hard steel compound and a hard felt wheel and move up to white, clean it 2-3x then have it hot blued. Or something else you might think about is having it nickle, Black nickel is Dead Sexy!

Jason
 
Hydrochloric acid will strip bluing very quickly. Neutralize with ammonia/water mix.
 
I don't have the foggiest idea about the bluing. But I wish you lived a little closer. Gun projects are the best shop projects.
 
sculver said:
You can purchase "Steel White" from Brownell's. It does a great job of stripping bluing and also removes rust.

I typically will remove the old finish during the sanding and polishing of the piece and then give it a soak in Steel White before bluing to insure that all of the rust is gone.

Once you start sanding/polishing; you will be amazed at the amount of pitting that you will find on the gun. Even if the gun doesn't show many signs of rust/pitting, there will be a lot show up as you work on it. Your bluing job will only look as good as the prep work on the metal. If you leave pits in the steel, it will show up in your bluing.
Click to expand...

Steve uses the method I would go with. When you get it ready for the new blue job give me an email for an address for a great guy to do it. Mel Doyles blues guns 4 days a week for some of the best gun smiths in the country. Good turn-around time and very reasonably priced.
 
ib2v4u said:
I know this isn't a gunsmith forum, but, some around and a lot of bluing experience too.

I have an S&W that was originally a 45 ACP with the 1/2 moon clips. I have rechambered a 44 special cylinder to 45 LC. Yes a S&W 45 ACP-45LC convertible and I cast and size my LC bullets to .452 btw. I have also turned the barrel down and made a sleeve for it to make it into a heavier barrel. I have added S&W adjustable sights. I am making an ejector shroud for it now. While the gun is in very good shape, the blue is worn off in spots and I want to refinish and have everything match. What is the best way to remove all the old bluing. Should I just sand it off with say 1200 grit paper or use something else? Thanks Jim

PS. I used to shoot practical revolver courses and am thinking about restarting. A heavy 45ACP revolver would be great for this if you are a wheel gun nut. Using the full moon clips that hold 6 rounds means very fast reloads, easy brass pick up and big holes and with light loads very slight recoil. I have also done quite a bit of successful handgun hunting and I don't believe that at reasonable ranges (under 100 yards) a good 45LC gives much away to a 44 mag. I have had 3 44 mags btw. 2 S&W and one Ruger that I put a 14" barrel on. I even made a S&W 41 mag and used it for a while. I love Smiths.
Click to expand...

IB
Here is what we use in our gun shop.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1209&title=GLASS BEADS
I have tried several methods prior to bluing, blasting will remove anything on the gun including rust, blue, etc. It will also even out some of the pitting as long as it is not deep. Another benefit is it gives your finish a good tooth to bite into. after bluing is when you want to buff to as high a gloss as you prefer.
BTW cool piece youve got!
Edit: +1 on the long colt I love that round, and it can be loaded from mild to wild.
 
I have blued a few pistols and usually dip said pistol in a bucket mixed with half muratic acid and half water. Pistol only needs to be in bucket a few seconds then dipped in a fresh water bucket then evaluate, sometimes parts need to be rubbed with a rag to remove the last of the finish. Lastly I place in bucket mixed with water and baking soda which will neutralize any last residue of acid.
Or go to walmart and get some blue remover and apply with a rag or q-tips which is milder than the bucket of acid.
Chris
 
" after bluing is when you want to buff to as high a gloss as you prefer. "
???????
What gun shop is this? I would like to visit while you are bright polishing a gun AFTER bluing. That is impossible. Perhaps you are mistaken?
 
Thanks for all the helpful information. I have a small bluing tank I made for knives and will blue it myself. I was also thinking about using Plum Brown. I kind of like it. Any idea how it would wear. I suspect that I will find some surface imperfections when I get it really cleaned up. Thats why we have sand paper and buffers.
 
foxbat34 said:
IB
Here is what we use in our gun shop.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1209&title=GLASS BEADS
I have tried several methods prior to bluing, blasting will remove anything on the gun including rust, blue, etc. It will also even out some of the pitting as long as it is not deep. Another benefit is it gives your finish a good tooth to bite into. after bluing is when you want to buff to as high a gloss as you prefer.
BTW cool piece youve got!
Edit: +1 on the long colt I love that round, and it can be loaded from mild to wild.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about bead blasting before bluing? And after its blued to polish it? :confused: I really dont think that will work at all.
 
Yes, the blue must be carded after it is neutralized. After the carding you can build the finish more. Dont think hard buff like a knife buff they are much softer.
And Bill you welcome anytime.
 
Yes, the blue must be carded after it is neutralized. After the carding you can build the finish more. Dont think hard buff like a knife buff they are much softer.
Click to expand...

This is the process for Belgian bluing. The steel is swabbed with an acid based chemical mix that will basically causes the steel to rust. It is then boiled in water to convert the rust to black iron oxide. Then you card the steel to remove excess oxides and buff to polish.

I'm not sure that this is the process that ib2v4u intends to use. If he is going to use hot caustic chemicals to blue the piece, then he needs to do all of the polishing before bluing. A blasted finish on steel that is hot caustic blued will look flat and gray.

A hot caustic blue finish is translucent. You actually see the steel surface reflecting light back through the bluing. So, the finish of the steel beneath the blue dictates how the blued finish will look. He needs at least a 320 grit finish before hot caustic bluing. I like to mirror polish the steel before bluing.
 
I have a caustic tank that sets on a double burner and boils at about 295f. I also have a bead blaster and some fine glass beads. These beads are very fine and don't do much to the metal. I could clean out the garnet I have in the blast cabinet and see what happens with the glass. I can always sand if I don't like it. I tried the glass on a knife and you couldn't hardly tell it did anything. This will be a user not a show piece, but, I do want it to look good. I was also wondering about the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. You heat the clean steel to I think 260f and then swab on. Apply several coats till even. Buff, clean and redo. It gives a nice dark purple brown. I like it just wonder how it wear
 
Blasted hot blueing is a attractive finish, almost a tactical looking finish.
Really depends on the look you are going for, If a matte finish is what you want then go for the glass beads before hot blueing.
If a dark deep black/blue is what you seek then you must buff before hot bueing.
Chris
 
ib2v4u said:
I have a caustic tank that sets on a double burner and boils at about 295f. I also have a bead blaster and some fine glass beads. These beads are very fine and don't do much to the metal. I could clean out the garnet I have in the blast cabinet and see what happens with the glass. I can always sand if I don't like it. I tried the glass on a knife and you couldn't hardly tell it did anything. This will be a user not a show piece, but, I do want it to look good. I was also wondering about the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. You heat the clean steel to I think 260f and then swab on. Apply several coats till even. Buff, clean and redo. It gives a nice dark purple brown. I like it just wonder how it wear
Click to expand...

If the beads are truely fine, like 600-700 grit, and you blast at 7-10psi over 320grit (not 320P) that has been blended with a worn maroon scotch-brite pad, hot blueing will make it look like a rust blue job. If the metal is run to 400 (not 400P) with a light gray (very fine) scotch-brite blending, then beaded at 5-7psi, it will have more luster and be a softer looking finish. Neither of these is a tactical looking, flat black.

Browned steel wears well. Not as well as rust bluing, though. Probably as good as hot bluing, give or take. Brownell's sells this http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=8795&title=EXPRESS%20BLUE%20#specs Both are excellant finishes.

Mike
 
Hey Guys,

While you're on the subject. What are some of my bluing options in Hawaii. When I went on to Brownell's site everything I looked at couldn't be shipped to us. What do you know about Laurel Mountain Brown? Maybe it could work? Or any other stuff that can be sent across the waters?

Thanks, Phil
 
Phil, go to the hardware store and look at drain cleaners for one that is pure sodium hydroxide. 6# to a gallon of distilled water and it should boil nice at about 290f. OUTSIDE or very well ventilated. That is what I have used and it worked fine for a nice dark blue. Left it in for 20 minutes. It still looked like bare steel till I rubbed it with a fine piece of steel wool, then it was blue. Repeated and it is very nice dark blue.
Last time I was at the hardware store I noticed they no longer carry this though. Plus it really really worked well on the drains. Your schools chemistry dept. should be able to get this for you though.
 
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