A customer has asked me to make a fixed blade piece with a similar blade shape as the EKA swing blade, the blunt tip recurve blade that does a similar job as a guthook, a blade that will slice hide away from a carcass without piercing the skin.
Ive handled a few versions but never actually used one. I have even made a few attempts but am not entirely happy with the results, Im on mk 3 at the moment, so I seek the sage advice of the more experienced here who may have made or better yet used something like this before.The first few attempts I have made have reminded me I suck at grinding recurves but I am willing to combat that with slow and careful filing and hand sanding.
My main question is how thick do I need to keep the tip so the design works the way it should?
Due to lack of skill , knowledge about this design and my leaning towards thin profiles, narrow bevels and distal tapers,and maybe insufficient stock thickness to begin with, the last few attempts have left me with a tip thickness of about 1/8th" or slightly thinner, whilst this provides what I feel is good edge geometry for a blade that by design is very narrow,no blade width for a nice high flat grind like I normally prefer, it leaves the tip thin enough Im worried it will pierce skin despite its rounded profile.
So I guess what Im asking is how thick should the spine be at the tip for this design?
The thicker the stock is the less likely the tip will pierce,but thick stock equals steep bevels contrary to good slicing,the very intent of the design.Im pretty confident choosing edge geometry for folders, kithchen knives ,machetes, skinners,axes even but this is a design I dont fully understand so any feedback or advice would be appreciated.At this point I might even just rough handle the couple Ive done and send em out for field testing.But I would like to hear from anyone with an opinion.
Ive handled a few versions but never actually used one. I have even made a few attempts but am not entirely happy with the results, Im on mk 3 at the moment, so I seek the sage advice of the more experienced here who may have made or better yet used something like this before.The first few attempts I have made have reminded me I suck at grinding recurves but I am willing to combat that with slow and careful filing and hand sanding.
My main question is how thick do I need to keep the tip so the design works the way it should?
Due to lack of skill , knowledge about this design and my leaning towards thin profiles, narrow bevels and distal tapers,and maybe insufficient stock thickness to begin with, the last few attempts have left me with a tip thickness of about 1/8th" or slightly thinner, whilst this provides what I feel is good edge geometry for a blade that by design is very narrow,no blade width for a nice high flat grind like I normally prefer, it leaves the tip thin enough Im worried it will pierce skin despite its rounded profile.
So I guess what Im asking is how thick should the spine be at the tip for this design?
The thicker the stock is the less likely the tip will pierce,but thick stock equals steep bevels contrary to good slicing,the very intent of the design.Im pretty confident choosing edge geometry for folders, kithchen knives ,machetes, skinners,axes even but this is a design I dont fully understand so any feedback or advice would be appreciated.At this point I might even just rough handle the couple Ive done and send em out for field testing.But I would like to hear from anyone with an opinion.