Blunted tip after using a Sharpmaker?

CPP

CPP

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I sharpened several knives of various metal using my Sharpmaker and, for the most part did well for my first run at sharpening. However, on my Dragonfly II (VG-10) I noticed that its tip had lost its point and was blunted by perhaps 1mm. As I didn't look at the blade closely prior, it's possible that this was there before but I noticed a few marks on the sides of both sharpening rods that led me to believe this blunting was the result of disengaging the blade from the rod. The rods were erected with their corners facing each other and the marks were on the sides closest to me at the time of sharpening and I was applying pressure to the blade while drawing it against the rod. Obviously, I've been much more careful after noticing this, but has anyone had a similar problem?
 
This is a common problem, and happens when you allow the tip of the knife to slide off the Sharpmaker stones. When you're using it next time, don't allow the tip to come in contact with the stones when you're using the pointed sides of the stones. When you're using the flats, stop the movement of the knife when the tip is still in contact with the stone (about halfway works well).
 
Thanks for your response. I'll try your suggestion but it seems easier said than done. Especially on a smaller knife the motion required to draw the blade against the rod seems to naturally lead to the tip connecting with the flat side when using it edge out. From now on I think I'll use the flat side for smaller blades.
 
It's a learned skill. Just be as careful as you can about not running the tip of your blade off the rod, and you'll eventually get a feel for it and stop your blades in time more often than not. It's easier to learn this on the flat sides of the Spydie rods, much more difficult on the pointy sides or on round rods like those used by Lansky.
 
I never did really fall into the " gimmick" sharpening items.
Sharpening sticks and whatnot.

If I need to profile and edge , I stick with the tried and proven lansky system, which is cheap and does a very good job on getting the initial angles.
After that , the knife may not see the lansky again for a long long time.
I'm of the opinion that anyone who is into knives should learn to use a high quality stone.
You'll learn very quickly how not to round your points off and how to bring your points back , if you do.
It was a long time ago, but I have rounded points in the past.

I went to the below translucent stone several months back. And it will put an unbelievable edge on a knife.
At first I wasn't going to use it because, I doubt I will ever find another one like this, but changed my mind and started using the other side of this one.
Lots of folks will tell you " oh it takes a long time to sharpen a knife on one of those." I am here to tell you, No, it doesn't.
I've taken a Bohler N690 blade from dull to wicked sharp in 10 minutes on the below stone. Granted the knife wasn't beat into ice or used to try to slice concrete and the edge wasn't rolled into a double.
Once you learn the art of sharpening on a fine stone, you won't go back to the gimmick items.

Stones like the one below are not cheap. I think I paid 110.00 for this one. I wouldn't part with it for 500.00, because, Number 1 : I most likely will never see another one like it, and number2 : Some of the edges I have put on knives with this stone make it worth its weight in gold , to me.
Sure there are many items that will get the job done, but if you're into knives and go to a truly high quality stone.........there is no going back.
The other thing about these types of hard translucent stones is, you won't wear them down or dish them out. They will last several lifetimes.
The last stone you will ever need.

umQd6Yi.jpg
 
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Where on earth could one acquire a stone like that? ? ?

Its absolutely gorgeous.

I have a really sweet jade crystal stone that im afraid to use too. Just too purty!
 
So recommending a stone which cannot be bought nowhere and takes month to master is the solution for a guy having problems with his sharpmaker?

The Sharpmaker is great for quick touchups or regular maintenance and has a much lower learning curve, still it will get you shaving sharp knives.
 
CPP said:
Thanks for your response. I'll try your suggestion but it seems easier said than done. Especially on a smaller knife the motion required to draw the blade against the rod seems to naturally lead to the tip connecting with the flat side when using it edge out. From now on I think I'll use the flat side for smaller blades.
Click to expand...

Just keep practicing at not letting the tip slip off. Go slow and you'll develop the needed muscle memory (keep the car on the track slowing down in the turns). I still have tip slip from time to time and will slow down and focus more on keeping the tip from over shooting.
 
So the sharpmaker is a gimmick but the Lansky isnt, again dude you just made my day.

Oh and yeah keep posting that pristine knife you just put off of its stand...
 
Sharpmaker and its ceramics work very well for touch-ups. It's a fact, it does what it claims and is designed for. Calling it a mere gimmick seems ignorant.
 
Use the flats only and forget the corners. I never use the corners and still obtain a razor sharp edge. YMMV.
 
I was using the Sharpmaker earlier on a number of knives with the diamond sharpener rods that I received today. I ordered the diamond sharpener for major jobs such as working out microchips. I began by sharpening an twenty-year-old abused and neglected twenty-year-old Boker OTF knife with unknown steel. This went well and with minimal effort began smoothing out the chips on its blade and a very sharp tip. I began with the diamond rods, moved to the brown medium coarseness rods, then the white fine rods using only their flat sides and then stropped it. Next up, I sharpened a Kershaw Volt II with a partially serrated 8cr13mov blade in the same manner and I successfully sharpened the unserrated portion of the blade and ended up with a very sharp tip. Then I touched up the Dragonfly that started this thread and I've more or less negated the aforementioned blunting resulting in a sharper than before tip. My ZT 0562 in Elmax had some microchipping right in its belly and I sharpened it again resulting in a sharp tip while mostly removing the chipping. Last up, I sharpened my small Sebenza 21 with an Insingo blade and S35V steel which also had some minor dings which I managed to smooth out but noticed the tip had begun to blunt slightly. The blunting was much less pronounced than on my DFII but this was a Sebenza which is currently my most expensive and favorite knife in my collection. Is it even possible to blunt the tip using the flat side of the Sharpmaker? When using the flat sides I am not very careful about not pulling the tip past the edge of the rod because I want a sharp tip and I was under the impression that I wouldn't experience the blunting on the flat side. And I began with a beat up old knife to test the results and unintentionally sharpened these knives in order of theirs prices and had no problems with the first four. Any ideas what happened to my Sebenza?
 
Sebenza has a pretty robust tip section and my guess is that you haven't reached the apex in your sharpening attempt, because Chris Reeve put on convex edge grind on all his knives and you would have to shave off the convex into a V before you are able to reach the apex and form burr
 
Good point wiredbeans, however, I am referring to the very tip where the swedge of the Insingo design meets the blade's edge. Very little belly to hold much of a convex grind or a bevel. Still, I hope you're right and my eyes playing tricks on me. I think it's time to get a magnifying glass.
 
CPP said:
... but noticed the tip had begun to blunt slightly. The blunting was much less pronounced than on my DFII but this was a Sebenza which is currently my most expensive and favorite knife in my collection. Is it even possible to blunt the tip using the flat side of the Sharpmaker? When using the flat sides I am not very careful about not pulling the tip past the edge of the rod because I want a sharp tip and I was under the impression that I wouldn't experience the blunting on the flat side. And I began with a beat up old knife to test the results and unintentionally sharpened these knives in order of theirs prices and had no problems with the first four. Any ideas what happened to my Sebenza?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is possible to blunt the tip... even on the flat side. If you drag the tip off the edge, that can be enough to start grinding off the tip. It's better to try and stop so that when you reach the bottom of your stroke, the tip is still on the stone.
 
When learning to use the sharpmaker, start slow to build the correct muscle memory. Use the flats of the stone. The stroke should end with the tip still on the stone. Occasional slip off is ok if you follow the motion of the blade through and use light pressure. Or time your stroke so the blade touches the base when the tip is on the stone.
 
You can start with the tip at the bottom of the stone and then push as you move upward.

I also mounted my SM to a heavy base so I can use both hands on the knife. It helps with control
 
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