BM 14210 and the sharpmaker?

krazichinaman

krazichinaman

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So I just received a BM 14210 this weekend from the local gun show and I love it. The only thing I can see wrong with it is that it needs to be broken in. It isn't as smooth as my ritter grip(but I've had that for about a year now)

I currently use a sharpmaker for doing my sharpening tasks. With the 14210 and its very slight recurve, am I stuck with just using the corners of the stones? Or will the flats be useable as well? I've read a few earlier post and it seems to me that people are saying to stick with just the corners.
 
I use the flats on my Kershaw Vapor II. Inside the recurve the edge just rides on the 2 corners anyway, and then when you get to the belly and tip, it glides onto the flat like normal. I prefer the flats anyway, as the corners tend to deform the edge and create a difficult to remove burr.
 
Lol Chinese Man, good to cross paths with you again. I was having the same problem, actually, with my 710, and my new sharpmaker (which I love). I have been sharpening it obsessively, and it seems to be duller when I try to get it with the flats because of the recurve. Is my technique wrong, or what? The manual shows doing a kukhri with just the corners, so I don't know. Hopefully someone with great knowledge will let you know/let me know what I've been doing wrong!

Zero
 
me2 said:
I use the flats on my Kershaw Vapor II. Inside the recurve the edge just rides on the 2 corners anyway, and then when you get to the belly and tip, it glides onto the flat like normal. I prefer the flats anyway, as the corners tend to deform the edge and create a difficult to remove burr.
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I've noticed that I get better results using the flats as well. As mentioned in the instructions, the corners do remove more metal then the flats, so I'm guessing the the flats "polish" the edge. Also, I'm starting to wonder if the recurve will have any negative effects when stropping.
 
So heres another question. Those with the 14210, can you do an "axis flick" easily? I can't seem to do it with mine but I'm guessing it still needs to break in a bit? The axis flick isnt a problem with my 556/558.
 
Zero

I have a 710 too but dont know how to sharpen it, anyone know if I should get a diamond DMT or what?

Anyone please help!!!
 
You should beable to sharpen it on the sharpmaker as well. I'm just trying to figure out if I should just stick with the corners, or just go about it normally with the corners then the flats.
 
Chinese man said:
I've noticed that I get better results using the flats as well. As mentioned in the instructions, the corners do remove more metal then the flats, so I'm guessing the the flats "polish" the edge. Also, I'm starting to wonder if the recurve will have any negative effects when stropping.
Click to expand...

Try using the corners on the 15 degree slots until a burr is raised, then going to the flats on the 20 degree slots. I find it nearly impossible to get rid of a burr using just the corners. I personally feel the corners generate a lot of stress and deform the edge as well as sharpen it, giving rise to the difficult to remove burr, and possibly some chipping damage. Imagine a hard japanese style kitchen knife with and edge above 60 HRc being pressed against the corners. I think some chipping and fracturing would happen. Just remember, if you use the flats, and the edge is recurved, until you get past the recurve, its being sharpened on the corners no matter what you do. However on 2 corners, the stress will be less than on 1 corner. Keep in mind my Vapor is rebeveled to about 12 degrees per side and I use a microbevel on the sharpmaker at 15 or 20, depending on how long its been since I restored the 12 degree bevel on the sander. Also, after raising the burr at 15 or whatever lower angle, try taking 2 LIGHT passes with the edge at 90 degrees to the stone. This will remove the burr and the subsequent strokes will restore the edge that you just dulled ever so slightly. Its done wonders for me on the Sharpmaker. The deburring technique presented by Jeff Clark here on the forums works well too.

As for the 710, an EZ-Lap diamond pocket rod sharpener and a fine white ceramic rod will give a hair shaving edge, and remove chips from cutting welding lead. Dont ask how I know. Just raise a burr w/ the EZ-Lap, and remove it at a higher angle with the fine ceramic.
 
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