BM 710 Question for Joe Talmadge (and others)

E

Elwin

Joined
Jan 4, 2002
Messages
183
How long did it take you to reprofile the 710 using just the spyderco 204. I have one I am doing for a friend and am wondering if it is worth my time to put a lot of effort into the 15 down to 20 degree double bevel.
 
i wouldnt wanna reprofile mine it came pretty sharp and after a little time w/a DMT fine/extra fine and a spydie ultra fine ceramic it is scary sharp just glides thru hair, paper, etc - mine is just fine as is ......i really cant imagine it being any sharper, i really like the 710, i'm one of them guys who dissed' axis locks, and i'm man enuff to admit i was wrong, they are the bomb imho, great ergos, looks/feels much better than any pics i have seen,none have done it justice , a great knife, hard to beat for the $$


sifu
 
The more I look at this one, the more I think that the amount of effort might be the same to reprofile or just sharpen it. Its in pretty rough shape. Also, after reprofiling, it would be much easier to sharpen again.
 
Brand new out of the box, my 710 took about 15 minutes to run through the SharpMaker steps. It was a pretty quick job.
 
Use a benchstone to do the rough profiling, this does not need to be accurate and you can do it in 5-10 minutes. You can then clean up on the Sharpmaker in a couple of minutes.

-Cliff
 
I've obviously been doing something wrong. It took me nearly 2 hours to reprofile a hollow ground chef's knife w/ a blue DMT. I tried to reprofile my safekeeper I, but gave up after about 4 hours on a slow spinning water stone.
 
Get a very coarse waterstone, ~220 grit, and some lapping compound ~40 to 80 grit, the lower the better. Put some lapping compound on the well soaked stone and grind away. Use a lot of force and change the lapping compound as it breaks down. I recently used this to take some chips out of an ATS-34 knife, ~1/2 mm deep breaks. It only took ~5 minutes to get all the damage out and the edge was ready for finishing. I also dropped the angle a few degrees at the same time.

I don't use my diamond hones for heavy reprofiling anymore as they can't match the speed of the above combination. In fact they can't even match the speed of the waterstone by itself. The difference is the amount of force used. You can't press that hard on a Diamond hone as you will rip all the diamonds out. You have to go light and this really slows you down. I only use them for finishing on high alloy steels.

Another high speed method is to buy really coarse grinding belts, and glue them to a small piece of wood and use them like files. I have a ~40 grit one that will strip metal off like crazy, it is Zirconia, but even the cheap AO ones work very well.

-Cliff
 
Excellent suggestions. I'll have to try the belt glued to a board. How often do you have to change it? I have been using the sharpmaker, but there are some problems w/ it. I am convinced that I could make something similar, but more to my liking w/ some time and tools. After reprofiling to about 15 degrees, the knives I have sharpen very quickly on the sharpmaker. Its the reprofiling thats killing me and the reason I asked about how long it took other people. Thanks again.
 
Originally posted by SIFU1A
i'm one of them guys who dissed' axis locks, and i'm man enuff to admit i was wrong, they are the bomb imho, great ergos, looks/feels much better than any pics i have seen,none have done it justice , a great knife, hard to beat for the $$
sifu
Click to expand...

That's cool, SIFU. Can you see my point how Carraci's comments in that one particular thread were irrelevant? Totally irrelevant.

That button will NOT disengage unless you want it to.
 
i have to agree w/ya kommonder, much less likely to happen than i thought w/out seeing/carrying one a while.....

the only BAD thing was today, 2 wks after trading for mine, i found a 710 prototype and 2 AFCK axis prototypes in a B&M store today, one of the AFCK has a D2 blade, I want all 3 now lol (they are priced about retail, $130 for the std blade models, and $150 for the D2

a heck of a knife imho, typical BM

sifu
 
You change the belts when they no longer cut as aggressively as you want. This depends on the quality of the belts as well as the hardness and alloy content of the steel. As the belts wear you simply switch to using them on low alloy softer steels, or use them for finishing work to remove some of the really coarse scratches before you switch to the Sharpmaker or what ever.

-Cliff
 
I rebeveled my 710 according to Joe T's instructions on my Lansky and it cuts better than any other knife I own. The Lansky extra coarse diamond hone makes rebeveling much easier and faster. I don't remember how long it took, but M2 is much easier for me than D2 & 440V have been.
 
I decided to go ahead and back-bevel to 15 degrees and then go to the 20 degree. I'm almost there. I have about an hours worth of work in it total so far. Like I said, it was in bad shape. There is only a thin black line at the edge. Soon it will be time to switch the angle.
 
Originally posted by Elwin
How long did it take you to reprofile the 710 using just the spyderco 204. I have one I am doing for a friend and am wondering if it is worth my time to put a lot of effort into the 15 down to 20 degree double bevel.
Click to expand...

I think it would have taken me roughly forever if all I'd had was the Sharpmaker's medium hones. I used DMT x-coarse hones to do much of the re-profiling. The whole thing still took me an hour, maybe more. I used a big 6"x2" DMT x-coarse for most of the edge, and one of the little 3"x1" x-coarse to get the recurve. Still, there are parts of the blade that can't be reached by those big DMTs, and those had to be done with the Sharpmaker.

Note that I had one of the original 710s. They are coming much thinner from the factory these days, and I don't expect it to be anywhere near such a chore.

Joe
 
This one is about 2 years old and had a pretty bad edge on it when it was new. I am nearly done and have about 1.5 hours in. Gotta go finish. Thanks all, for the advice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top