BM-e info ?

FTR-14c

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Been thinking about looking for a BM-e.
I believe I have seen a small difference in size between them.
Can anyone clarify?

Thanks, Rick
 
I too am interested to know. My 2nd SH-e (sterile) is slightly smaller then my SH-e LE. Wonder if its like that on the whole e line :confused:

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Mine was made from a ZT blank so it's skinny and has a swedge. I know some are smooth coat while others are more crinkle. Some are V edge while others have assymetrical edge too. When I bought mine it was an asymmetrical edge and I reprofiled it before I knew better. :foot: As far as I know they're all 10" long. :confused:
 
In all I've gone through and made sheaths for I've come up with as much as 1/4" in length and 1/8" or a little more in width differences in the E line. I figure its up to more hand finishing at that time. That, and CBL can make one a little cross eyed, grinding two knives at once can make anyone dizzy. :p
 
I had a brace of satin battle rats and there was a touch of discrepancy in the belly of the blades
 
I too am interested to know. My 2nd SH-e (sterile) is slightly smaller then my SH-e LE. Wonder if its like that on the whole e line :confused:

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In all I've gone through and made sheaths for I've come up with as much as 1/4" in length and 1/8" or a little more in width differences in the E line. I figure its up to more hand finishing at that time. That, and CBL can make one a little cross eyed, grinding two knives at once can make anyone dizzy. :p

This is really interesting. My ergo experience is limited to one Steel Heart and one Battle Mistress variant. Which is more rare? Slightly bigger or smaller?
 
The E's vary a lot as Leatherman stated, I agree.

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My AB's won't fit in each others sheaths.
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One thing that I have noticed on the E-series is that the grip is noticeably thinner near the top on the last run of them (the LE's) than on the early ones. You notice it immediately when you grip the two side by side.

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My SHe and BAe both have that thinner handle area as well, I think it started happening a bit earlier than the desert LE's. My much older NOe has a much wider handle, in that forward area.
 
OK, so it looks like the ZT's are about 3/16" thick and 1/8 taller than the 1/4" BM-e.
I think I would prefer the thinner, taller version in desert sage.
A big Thanks to everybody who took the time to help me, I now know what I'm looking for
and have great pics to keep me motivated.

Rick
 
At one time I had three of the fourteen Clip Point Desert Tan NO-E's. Every one of them was different. One quilted handle and two Raptor handles. One with satin spine running all the way around the handle. One with the blade spine in satin and the handle edges coated. One with coated spine. All three swedges were of different lengths.

I think these kind of variations make life interesting and relect the degree of grinding buy hand of the E series.

(One of these knives has since gone away in trade for a Ruck.)

Even the Busses of today exhibit differences. I was comparing my TGLB last week to a TGLB my LGS had taken in trade. The fuller on their knife was noticeably closer to the spine than on my knife, resulting in a higher grind for the edge of their knife. Good. Not all knives in a given design are cookie-cutter identical. They have personalities.
 
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I think these kind of variations make life interesting and reflect the degree of grinding by hand of the E series.
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I think Mike has the answer - I believe the older Busse knives were made by hand, instead of the CNC produced knives of today. I always noticed in the SHBM's and SHSHII's that some were more pointy than others (I'm talking about regular production knives, not customs or variants).

Gene
 
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