Bohler K100 (aka AISI D3)

A

AlexKV

Joined
Jan 28, 2015
Messages
17
Got this steel a while ago, in 6mm thickness. I'm planning to make camping knife, something like Fallkniven S1 for example. What I was wondering, is it possible to do stock removal of this steel with a hand file? I currently do not own a belt grinder, and I already tried to file it, and it works, but it is pretty hard even in annealed state. Has anyone tried hand filing D2 steel (D2 and D3 are pretty similar), and will it damage the file while grinding it?
 
D3 is a relatively substantial increase in wear resistance over D2, and 6mm is some very heavy stock. I wish you luck.
 
I have used Bohler K110 with really good results with easily repeatable HT results . I would say filing is going to suck big time but if that's all you have ... well that's all you have . I guess use the best files you can afford .
 
I tried heat treating a small piece of this steel, it's about 6x10x60mm, and hand-filed a bevel on one side, just to try out how it works out.
I heated it with propane torch and quenched in water, and sharpened that side where I made a bevel, with pretty steep angle so it wasn't able to shave my arm, but it was noticeably harder when sharpening it with stone. What bugs me is that even after that heat-treating (no tempering), the file was still biting into steel, and I think it shouldn't at that stage...
 
AlexKV said:
I tried heat treating a small piece of this steel, it's about 6x10x60mm, and hand-filed a bevel on one side, just to try out how it works out.
I heated it with propane torch and quenched in water, and sharpened that side where I made a bevel, with pretty steep angle so it wasn't able to shave my arm, but it was noticeably harder when sharpening it with stone. What bugs me is that even after that heat-treating (no tempering), the file was still biting into steel, and I think it shouldn't at that stage...
Click to expand...
that you can not HT this steel with propane torch .....Did you look for data how to HT this steel ?

(766°C) Ar3: 1370°F (743°C)
Preheating: To minimize distortion and stresses in large or complex tools use a double preheat. Heat at a rate not exceeding 400°F per hour (222°C per hour) to 1200-1250°F (649-677°C) equalize, then heat to 1400-1450°F (760-788°C). For normal tools, use only the first temperature range as a single preheating treatment.

Austenitizing (High Heat): Heat slowly from the preheat to 1700-1750°F (927-954°C)

Quenching: For oil, quench until black, about 900°F (482°C), then cool in still air to 150-125°F (66-51°C).

For pressurized gas, the furnace should have a minimum quench pressure of 4 bars. A quench rate of approximately 400°F (222°C) per minute to below 1000°F (538°C) is critical to obtain the desired properties.

Tempering: Temper immediately after quenching. Hold at temperature for 1 hour per inch (25.4 mm) of thickness, 2 hours minimum, then air cool to ambient temperature.

For maximum wear resistance, temper between 300-350°F (149-177°C) for a hardness of 62-63 HRC. For the optimal balance between wear resistance and toughness, temper between 450-500°F (232-260°C). This will produce 58-60 HRC.

To minimize internal stresses in cross sections greater than 6 inches (152.4 mm) and to improve stability in tools that will be EDM'd after heat treatment, soaking times of 4 to 6 hours at the tempering temperature are strongly recommende
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top