Boiled Linseed Oil?

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Dec 25, 2001
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I just refinished my Norse Hawk. I had some linseed oil at hand and I gave the entire hawk a coating of that, allowed to dry about ten minutes and wiped dry. Is there any advantage to applying a second and perhaps third coat?

This will be a wall-hanger if that means anything.
 
Yeah if you care for color. In my experience adding more coats usually means the color gets deeper and darker. If you are happy with the way it looks now there would be no other advatages to doing more coats. If it was a user axe it would be a different story. Hope this helps!
 
everyday for one week, once a week for one month, once a month for one year and once a year after that. But thats for a user handle. :)
 
"boiled "is not real ! Linseed oil has added "driers" such as cobalt driers ,without them it would never dry ! In time linseedoil both oxidizes and polymerizes .That makes it darken with age. Take your time ! Use THIN coatings and repeat with days in between .Remzy type is OK
 
everyday for one week, once a week for one month, once a month for one year and once a year after that. But thats for a user handle. :)
lol, yep that is the old Army saw about applying a Boiled Linseed finish to an M1 rifle. i like to mix BLO and Pine Tar 50/50. then flame this .
 
I recently redone my old beat up Mauser with linseed oil. The key is use your finger and apply thin coats many times. This rifle stock is about 5 very thin coats. Bottom pic is 10 coats and a month later..... It really darkened up nicely.

IMAG0190.jpg


IMAG0361.jpg
 
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I recently redone my old beat up Mauser with linseed oil. The key is use your finger and apply thin coats many times. This rifle stock is about 5 very thin coats. Bottom pic is 10 coats and a month later..... It really darkened up nicely.

IMAG0190.jpg


IMAG0361.jpg

Wood only, or metal too?? That is pretty!
 
Thin coats are used because thick coats interfere with propercuring.
 
There used to be a place in Northern Europe (Scandinavia?) that sold true BOILED linseed oil. I can't find their website now. It was expensive - maybe $100/quart. But I always wanted to try it.
 
There used to be a place in Northern Europe (Scandinavia?) that sold true BOILED linseed oil. I can't find their website now. It was expensive - maybe $100/quart. But I always wanted to try it.

Looks like SolventFreePaint has the Swedish product (Allback), while EarthPaint has their own "Special Linseed Oil" that is "polymerized" with "special heating and aging processes...without the use of any driers at all."

I use Flax Oil from the kitchen that's past the expiration date. After it sits around a while, it gets thicker (polymerizes), sometimes getting too thick to use as a wood finish (when stored for months in a bigger jar that gives it more exposure to air). Maybe I'll try boiling it sometime.
 
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Allback is good stuff, I mix it 50/50 with pine tar light and use it for all my outdoor wood projects, axe handles etc.
 
"Linseed oil, also known as flaxseed oil, is a colourless to yellowish oil obtained from the dried, ripened seeds of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). The oil is obtained by pressing, sometimes followed by solvent extraction. Linseed oil is a drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. Due to its polymer-forming properties, linseed oil can be used on its own or blended with combinations of other oils, resins or solvents as an impregnator, drying oil finish or varnish in wood finishing, as a pigment binder in oil paints, as a plasticizer and hardener in putty, and in the manufacture of linoleum. Linseed oil use has declined over the past several decades with increased availability of synthetic alkyd resins—which function similarly but resist yellowing."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil

Bob
 
I use either raw or boiled linseed oïl, both give great result, but unboiled goes in deeper but remain slippery for quite a while.
Also, I find that raw oïl stinks far less when you get it on your hands.
 
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