Boiled Linseed Oil?

Steve Tall said:
Looks like SolventFreePaint has the Swedish product (Allback), while EarthPaint has their own "Special Linseed Oil" that is "polymerized" with "special heating and aging processes...without the use of any driers at all."
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That EarthPaint product looks pretty good. Thanks!
 
Just ran across this on YouTube. A guy takes leftover GNC flaxseed oil to get linseed oil. Basically he separates the fat out of the flaxseed oil. He doesn't explain why. Perhaps the fat turns rancid making the flaxseed oil unsuitable as a finish.

[video=youtube;GUyXm2IL4OQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUyXm2IL4OQ[/video]

Bob
 
Steve Tall said:
Looks like SolventFreePaint has the Swedish product (Allback), while EarthPaint has their own "Special Linseed Oil" that is "polymerized" with "special heating and aging processes...without the use of any driers at all."
Click to expand...

I contacted Allback about their linseed oils. Their raw linseed oil is pure. Their boiled linseed oil contains manganese as a catalyst (drying agent).
 
I hope links are ok, apologies in advance if not.

Really boiled linseed oil is available from Tried and True finishes:

https://www.amazon.com/Tried-True-Wood-Finish-Original/dp/B003DL10LQ

I found that their varnish oil needed to be thinned for initial coats - I use turpentine because I like the smell (naptha works fine too). You can also get it at stores like Woodcraft if there is one nearby.

If you want to try raw oil, Sunnyside still packages it:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyside-Raw-Linseed-Oil/dp/B0149KTEPS

I saw some once at a hardware store in Hatch NM and later kicked myself for not picking it up.
 
real Tung Oil is superior to BLO, but there lies the rub. you gotta find a source for unadulterated Tung Oil. in the Pacific Northwest it is readily available. has no chemical additives
 
i have not had any trouble with tung oil drying. usually overnight and the oil is all soaked in. i experimented applying tung oil over a old coat of BLO, this did not dry over night so i simply wiped the tung oil off.
i've used Sunnyside raw linseed oil, it nevers seems to dry. lol
 
your local hardware store might be able to source Pine Tar for you. a quart can will last a long long time. unless you really start giving it a fit chance as a wood perserver.
watch the videos on you tube
 
For real tar products look up tarsmell.com.

In addition to high quality Stockholm tar, they have tarred marline and all kinds of he-man guy stuff that I have to keep in the garage or the house smells like Nelson's entire fleet. Which I'm into but my wife says isn't chic.

Their tar soap is the only thing I use on my hair. Really prevents dandruff. Tar is a fungicide and turns out dandruff is usually caused by a fungus.
 
markv said:
i have not had any trouble with tung oil drying. usually overnight and the oil is all soaked in.
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What tung oil product are you using? Many products are marketed as tung oil but are really wiping varnishes. Watco's and Formby's are examples of these.
 
My understanding is that manufacturers of wood finishing products are usually very creative with the names of their products and consequently confusing to buyers. For example, AFAIK Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a wiping varnish and does not contain any tung oil.

A varnish is made by cooking an oil with a resin. The resin drys and creates a "hard" film. Wiping varnish is varnish thinned with a petroleum distillate.

Pure oils, linseed and tung, leave a "soft" finish.

Some folks have their own homebrew finishes. Sometimes starting with oil and adding one or more ingredients: varnish. thinners, tar, wax, etc.

What is the best finish for an axe handle?

Good luck with that one. :D

Bob
 
pure tung oil, not the adulterated products like Watco or Formby. pure tung oil is non toxic has no driers or varnish type additives.
 
Square_peg said:
Looks like a good product.

"This product is 100% solids and has no solvents or heavy metal driers"

This unique finish is even safe for cutting boards, toys, and children's furniture. It complies with the FDA regulations (FDA 21 Sec. 175.300) as "safe for food contact surfaces".
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Agreed, I think this sounds like exactly the product I'm gonna switch to. Thanks for the heads up guys.
 
i use a 50/50 mixture of BLO and Pine Tar. i mix it in a metal coffee can, apply it with a wood paint stirrer. i do this process in high summer when the wood pores are open. after i've applied this goo to the handles i let them rest a day or two in the sun, then i flame the handles over the BBQ grill, cooking in the BLO/PineTar coating into the wood. using a gas torch would be a better way but i have no gas torch.
 
Did a little experiment this week.

Took two scraps of maple and dropped them in my dipping bucket of 50-50 BLO/thinner. Took one scrap out after a few hours, left the other in for 7 days.

Sawed them both open:



A long soak seems worth it to me.
 
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