Bolo / Bowie Knife (relisted 2/1/2014)

mcswood

mcswood

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Messages
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It's 14. 13/16" overall and weighs 26 oz.
The blade is 1095 spring steel 9. 3/4" X 1. 3/4" and 1/4" thick.
The fittings are 1018 steel WELDED
to the full tang.

The handle is 4. 7/8" long with scales of lightly darkened Curly Maple.
There is a lanyard hole in the pommel (no lanyard incl.).
The sheath is 10 oz. leather with black steel rivets and a
black steel snap.
It's cemented at the spacer and hand stitched
using doubled waxed nylon saddle stitching thread making for an
extremely rugged, rough use sheath.

The rough beveled blade is reheated in the forge to glowing red
and quenched in strained used motor oil. After it's cleaned of slag
it's brought back up in temp. until it can be struck with a file.
I leave the file marks showing. I like a handmade knife to look
handmade.
This is how I harden / temper my blades. They hold an edge
extremely well.

Relisted on 2/1/2014 incl. shipping in the U.S. PAYPAL or M.O.
1st. "I'LL TAKE IT" to my email address mcswoodknives@gmail.com
takes it.


Thanks for looking,
Mike
 
Last edited:
Phoynix said:
I really like this knife, do you know roughly the hardness your tempering method produces?
Click to expand...

No, I can't say I do.

When I test the edge I chop hard dead wood and check for roll over or chipping (it won't do either).
What would be a good # to achieve the same results ?

When checking the tip I poke it into a block of wood and pry it sideways. It digs in wood very nicely.
Again, what would the wanted hardness be for "spiking" with the tip of your blade ?

When making large blades for heavy use I've never understood how these "numbers" work from edge to
spine when the idea is to have (at least my idea) a edge harder than the spine.
This knife is intended to be used as an extreme duty chopping / cutting tool without worry about
damaging any part of it including it's edge.
I beat my test blades way beyond what heavy use in the field would ever demand.
When I sell a knife I know the only feedback I get will be good..

What was the question?
Sorry but I really don't know the #s.

Thanks,
Mike
 
I was more worried about chipping then anything...
To answer your question.
For a real combat blade that will see use agasint other blades including swords using 1095 I would consider temper of 48-50 for the spine with 54 for the edge ideal.
This allows you to peen the edge to both increase the hardness and for edge repair without need of regrinding the blade down past a chip.
 
Just adding my two cents here. The skill level to make a knife like this, is upwards on the scale.... Everyone has their own opinion on what the ideal Rockwell hardness would be, given the blade's intended use...I wouldn't feel comfortable in a combat situation w/ a soft 50-54 blade myself............Nice knife, I hope it's a bit harder! Keep up the good work.
 
I agree the skill put into the blade is without question, I am considering buying it simply for display which is against my nature. I dont expect to ever use the knife, if I brought it however I like to have a piece that COULD be used otherwise I would just buy some fantasy stainless crap and put on my wall or in a display case instead. Half the fun with knives(for me at least) is looking at the skill gone into making a functional piece or the materials(I love titanium knives).

I was responding because I was asked what I considered a good RC# when I asked about it.
I chose those numbers on my own "SWEET" spot for what I consider a combat knife of this size.
Tensile strength of 1095 between 54rc and 62rc is only an increase of ~23%.
The Difference in fracture toughness of 1095 at 62rc is only 40% of 1095 at 54rc on Charpy tests, from the side of 62rc 1095, 54rc 1095 is over 200% tougher.
 
I've never thought of my knives as objects to be displayed and consider that a very
nice compliment. I enjoy making knives. I'll only make them while I still enjoy
doing so.

I don't seem to get much feedback on my edges on the several hundreds of knives
that I've made. I hope that translates into happy people.
I think we'd ALL know if I had people not happy by now.

Many of my blades ARE carried by our troops and have been for many years.
I'm proud to say I've never had a complaint.

I can understand wanting to have the hardness numbers to go on but unless
you plan to test for yourself how do you know that they're accurate from me
(or any one else for that matter).
We've all bought things that weren't quite as we expected..
I have expensive knives that were given to me as presents (yeah, they give me knives)
that aren't even made from the steels as quoted let alone the hardness's that they claimed.
If the edge rolls it's not very hard...

I only work with 1095 because I have a very good source for bulk.
Even though I know my source well I still test every bar to make sure it will harden and break.
If I worked with many other steels I'd find myself TRUSTING that they are what I'm paying for.
It'd be bad if I got screwed, but worse if I was screwing others even if by accident.

My blades look like they need to be abused. They can, and should be.
I'm not going anywhere. If a knife of mine fails, send it back.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike,

Don't change a thing in what and how you do what you do!! I've owned many great fixed blade knives and I'd take yours over most of 'em.....I love the fit, the finish and the "beat the crap out me" persona your knives has!!! When i'm in the woods.....this is the blade.
 
Mcswood at no point was I implying your blades are not serviceable... but I see this knife as almost cross between a parrying dagger and hatchet in its use in regards to a real swordplay between its weight and design. Blades that will suffer high impacts with other blades need to be softer(tougher) its not a question abut the quality of your workmanship.

I am stretching for a reason to buy, sorry if that came across as suggesting your work was not up to snuff in any way.
 
Phoynix said:
Mcswood at no point was I implying your blades are not serviceable... but I see this knife as almost cross between a parrying dagger and hatchet in its use in regards to a real swordplay between its weight and design. Blades that will suffer high impacts with other blades need to be softer(tougher) its not a question abut the quality of your workmanship.

I am stretching for a reason to buy, sorry if that came across as suggesting your work was not up to snuff in any way.
Click to expand...

I didn't take it that way. I ramble on a bit and over explain. I need to practice easy answers like yes or no..
 
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