Bolster Advice

[Runthemall]

I plan on putting a bolster on my next knife. If I'm using 1084 for the blade, would a 303 stainless bolster look ok? Or, should I use bolster metal that matches the steel metal? Also, is it ok to secure them using epoxy AND peened pins (I saw a guy on youtube use this method). Or, would solder be best?

 

[kuraki]

I have used 304 because I can get it easily but I've had no luck getting it to solder with typical 4% silver solder.

The 300 series have very good corrosion resistance. I see no reason not to use them as bolsters, guards, spacers, etc. It will look different than your 1084 blade. They polish well and likely to a brighter white than the 1084 will. They only get hard through work hardening, and can be tough to machine. The question of whether epoxy and pins is sufficient depends on the intended use of the blade. For most knives and general low impact cutting tasks, I would say yes, that's sufficient.

 

[irona]

I'd recommend using Nickel Silver for the bolsters as opposed to 303, that being said I have no reason why 303 wouldn't work - only that I see a lot of bolsters made out of NS and haven't seen one out of 303.


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[AVigil]

416 stainless is commonly used and often just peened.

 

[Salem Straub]

I've used 303, 410, 416, brass, mild steel, nickel silver... I prefer 410 or 416 as they drill nicely. 416 is best.
Ken Onion taught me to hand-lap the tang flat where the bolsters will be, put a little epoxy, clamp tight, and peen pins from stock that matches the bolster if possible. You can get it to look seamless, and the color difference looks nice.