Bolster Attachment

Yes just a slight taper right on the end.
Glad we could help.
Stan
 
I looked at that pin reamer. DOes it draw itself into the material or does it just work as you set it? I worry that I may over do it and make the hole too big. How do you know when it's properly tapered?
 
It won't draw it self in,just insert and turn a few times and done,doesn't take much.
Stan
 
The pin length rule of thumb is about one to one and a half pins diameter sticking out of each side. So if you are using a 1/16" diameter pin, just cut it so that when pushed into place it sticks out each side of the bolster stack by 3/32", or 1.5 pin diameter. Does not really matter then what the stack thickness is.

I use a lightweight hammer and go slow. Using the ball peen, once the pin heads have evenly mushroomed well and there is just a bit more hammering to go, I switch to a flat face and start striking harder. This is to make sure the pin "upsets" into the hole more, helping it to disappear. The tighter the pin is wedged into the bolster metal, the less chance it will show.

I don't worry about hitting the bolster too much, it will occasionally happen but with a light hammer the effect is nothing that won't grind right out in a heartbeat. Just don't ding it where the metal gets pushed out and distorts the polished front face or the scale mating surface at the back. Even then, it can be fixed with a file usually if necessary.
 
Salem has it - The rivet length is the thickness of the bolster/tang stack, plus one to one-and-a-half diameters of the rivet. This will leave just the right amount of metal to peen down without the pins bending sideways. So, if the stack is 3/8" and the rivet is 1/8" diameter, the rivet length will be 3/8 + 1/8 to 3/8 + 3/16. So you would file your rivets to a length between 1/2" to 9/16"

The reason you put a small chamfer on one end of each pin is to make inserting them easier. If the ends are left absolutely flat, the edge tends to catch as you try and push them through the holes. The chamfer guides the pin through easier. You only need to chamfer a tiny bit - just enough to break the sharp edge.
 
This makes sense and I have the general idea. Last night I went to bed and a thought popped into my head that seems so elementary I don't know why I didn't ask the question to begin with. How do you put a chamfer on the inside of the bolster and tang? Is there a tool for this or do I just use the reamer and basically make it a taper? Other than that I think I have lots of practice to do but you folks have given me one heck of a good tutorial. I can't thank you enough and keep the pointers coming as I need all I can get! Oh, one other thing, even though the pins are holding the bolster in place it still gets epoxied right?
 
You can use a counter-sink bit or even a drill bit a couple sizes larger to chamfer the pin holes in the bolster and tang if you don't have the proper taper. It doesn't take a whole lot, just knock the edges off the hole so the pin has room to expand and tighten up the joint. Chamfering tang holes is a good idea anyway, it removes burrs and reduces the chances of stress risers that may cause problems in HT.

Nonprophet said:
Oh, one other thing, even though the pins are holding the bolster in place it still gets epoxied right?
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Yup. It may not be "needed" if the fit is good and tight, but it will help you sleep better at night, knowing there's no way moisture can get under there. Belt and suspenders :)
 
Yup. It may not be "needed" if the fit is good and tight, but it will help you sleep better at night, knowing there's no way moisture can get under there. Belt and suspenders :)
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:thumbup: Got it! Good analogy! One last thing, what size ball pein hammer would you guys recommend? I don't want to get too big and bang up more than I should but I also don't want too small a one that I have to beat holy hades out of things to get what I need.
 
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Thanks SS I found some 8 ounce hammers I just wasn't sure if a 4 or 6 was too light or not. I'll probaby go with 8 as well. Carl, I agree I really appreciate how helpful everyone has been and I love your sig!
 
Can I jump in on this thread too?

Does it matter what metal rod you use to put into the handles or bolster?
I am not talking aluminum but SS, and brass, and copper in any combination are ok?
 
Nonprophet said:
I would assume that that formula for the length of the pin is because it pushes down into the bolster and expands, thus shortening the pin in a predicatable way. And the taper, yeah I see just a very slight rounding of the edge of an already flat pin, correct? I want to say that you guys have been AMAZINGLY helpful! I wish there was some way I could show my appreciation other than to just say thanks but, well....thanks. I love doing these knives and I want to be good at it someday and you guys are really helping me a lot!
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Show pictures of the finished knife so they can see if the advise they gave payed off.

Richard
 
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