Bolster? (how to make it fit perfectly)

I like the cf sleeve idea. Never even knew they existed.:thumbup:
instead of the balloon approach (ingenious idea btw) would it work to create the core first, let it harden and then stick it in the sleeve and apply a final layer of epoxy?
 
I ordered a bhojpur blade a couple days ago and I'm going to have a go and putting a handle on it. I'm not sure if I'll use firewood for the handle or maybe just saw the end of an axe handle off and use that. Fiberglass resin looks really cool, but after watching those videos I think it's a little out of my league. If there were some "quick and dirty" way to mold a roughly shaped handle and then file it down, I'd go that route.

Those videos are worth watching for the intro music alone.
 
quick and dirty mold?
Get a few inch long piece of the widest (1.5inch) oval hose in Homedepot. Bend it so its slightly curved. Put a pipe end cap on one end. Seal any gap with some silicon and there's your mold. Pour your resin into the open end stick the blade in there and wait.
Downside might be that the hose has to be cut at the end to release the handle. But its not that expensive anyways.
 
Anybody ever tried steel mesh in resin instead of carbon fiber? Might be even stronger and doesn't "explode" under stress. Disadvantage could be that steels expands differently than the epoxy during temp changes. And of course more weight but 1oz more doesn't really matter for a Kuk anyways will prolly still be much lighter than wood.
http://bit.ly/1eeKuGB

Google found some steel mesh reinforced epoxy. It's used in swimming pools for example and stronger than fiberglass reinforced resin.
 
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You can get steel bed for acraglas from places like Brownells. You can get glass or steel, just mix it in. Should be very tough.

I've use it a lot for gun stuff and used it to put the handle on my Barong. Didn't use steel or glass, just the resin. It's very tough stuff and impervious to most anything. Not brittle, doesn't shrink.
 
You could probably do that but you may have problems getting it to hold its form against the plug without bubbles. More clear coat would have to be added on top the cf and then the final surface would not be smooth. I think it would take more sanding and polishing to get it even and smooth. It would almost be impossible to sand without cutting into the fiber in some places. Usually layering like that requires vacuum bagging (more equipment) to get good results but it can be done. Working from outside in ensures you have an even thickness of clearcoat and the mold surface provides the smooth surface to the handle with minimal sanding.
Jens Schuetz said:
I like the cf sleeve idea. Never even knew they existed.:thumbup:
instead of the balloon approach (ingenious idea btw) would it work to create the core first, let it harden and then stick it in the sleeve and apply a final layer of epoxy?
Click to expand...
 
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