Bolt Drills

ERIK KNIVES

ERIK KNIVES

Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
883
I've decided on mechanical fasteners whenever possible. What step/pilot drills do you guys recommend? I prefer a pilot drill rather than a step, but the one I have from a popular supplier is a two-piece design that spun on me. I re-centered the pilot and tightened the set screw, which broke. I epoxied the pilot with LT 324 and got through several bores and spun again. I am pissed because this drill bit cost me close to $50. I will most likely flatten the shaft of the pilot and find a hardened set screw and fix it, but damn, it wont be easy.

I see the step bits at knifekits and they run around $15, but I see the likelihood of more round out with a step over a pilot bit. Does anyone know of a pilot bit for corby bolts that is a solid piece? Or, are you happy with your step bit for corbys?

EA
 
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Erik,
How about a 3/16 bit for the through hole, and then a 1/4" end mill chucked up in the press and setting the depth stop for the proper height?
 
This may be a case where I should have searched better. I found some folk's recommending Pop's piloted reamers. His website pictures suck, but I could easily buy two for the price of mine, and he say's they are solid pieces. Any thoughts?
 
jonnymac44 said:
Erik,
How about a 3/16 bit for the through hole, and then a 1/4" end mill chucked up in the press and setting the depth stop for the proper height?
Click to expand...

Hey Jon,

I love it but how do you center the end mill? My drill press is not that tight and I don't want to switch bits back and forth while the slab(s) are clamped.
 
ERIK KNIVES said:
Hey Jon,

I love it but how do you center the end mill? My drill press is not that tight and I don't want to switch bits back and forth while the slab(s) are clamped.
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, why don't you want to switch bits while clamped? I do it all the time when drilling my holes for tubes in my tangs. I clamp, start with the small bit and sometimes change the bit three times all while it's clamped up in the same spot til I get to my desired size. Doesn't take that long. I think you would like the results.
 
Not to get off topic but were would I find these Pop's piloted reamers? Goodled but came up dry, I would also like to give them a try if they are less than $45+.

Thanks
 
jonnymac44 said:
Just out of curiosity, why don't you want to switch bits while clamped? I do it all the time when drilling my holes for tubes in my tangs. I clamp, start with the small bit and sometimes change the bit three times all while it's clamped up in the same spot til I get to my desired size. Doesn't take that long. I think you would like the results.
Click to expand...

It's just a preference thing, especially if I am using a depth stop. I would have to reset the depth stop every time I got to the final bore. I do switch bits while clamped some times, I just don't want to have to.
 
I have used a lot of pilot bits and step drills, including ones I made myself. I have found the ones James Poplin (Pop's) makes the best I have ever used. Just drill the pilot hole at a tad under the rivet shank size, and run Pop's bit in to the depth desired. It makes a perfect fit for his rivets.

One thing to make sure of, is to get your rivets and drills from someone who makes both of them. That way they will match. A drill from ABC supply may not fit the rivets from DEF supply. Pops makes his rivets and his drills.
 
Pop's bolts and step drill's are so closely matched that if you put just a slight bit too much epoxy into the bolt hole it becomes a chore to squeeze the male and female ends together close enough to start them screwing together. Okay, look....no comments alright? :D The epoxy has no where to go because it can't squeeze out around the bolts shoulders.
 
I don't put any epoxy in the bolt hole. I place the bolts in the holes, and just start the threads. Then I apply a ring of epoxy around the bolt heads, and move them in and out a bit, to spread the epoxy. Then I just run the bolts snug and the job is done. There is no need to epoxy the bolts in their holes. The small amount on the head part seam will seal any small misalignments around the head.
Also, avoid getting any epoxy in the female thread part or the bolts may not go fully together due to hydraulic pressure.
 
Again sorry for my slightly off topic comment. Thanks a ton for the link to Pop's, I'm now putting together a list to order now.
 
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