Bone or horn shadow pattern

B

Brian.Evans

Registered Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3,267
Just doing some more research, as I am def not going to have time for knife making for a month or better. (baby!! :D).

Has anyone seen or especially personally used bone or horn with or without liners for a shadow pattern folder?


Just an aside, the only reason I keep asking about shadow patterns is that I don't know how to solder stainless bolsters and can't afford nickel silver stock right now.

Thanks in advance BladeForums. I want to add that I love this place. Every time I ask a question I get so many very knowledgeable people that answer. I asked a previous question about slipjoints on three very well known knife forums, I got zero answers on one, four responses from two people on another and something like 12-15 responses on here. I am continually blown away by this place. Thanks BF!
 
Bone will be easy to crack at the pivot pin, and horn warps and shrinks.
Soldering stainless bolsters isn't hard. Use Stay Brite "silver" solder and Stayclean flux. Rough up the areas to be soldered, immediately apply flux and heat until the solder melts.
 
I've made many shadow patterns out of bone no problem, but I usually use a reinforcement
thick birdseye type of washer system at the pivot. Done right you shoudn't be able to see
the birdseye effect when its peened. I make a thick washer out of rod on a small lathe.
Ken.
 
Bill, how much solder (inches-wise) does a typical barlow style bolster (both sides) take? It's kind of expensive to buy a pound! Holy cow. Given my experience with regular soldering, I would think that it won't take an awful lot. I know it's different, but the principals are the same.

I found 12 feet on USAknifemaker for not a lot of money. I had originally decided against bolsters because I don't have $80 for a pound of solder and flux, but if I can get set up for around $20 with shipping for both, well then I'd rather do bolsters.
 
kc custom said:
I've made many shadow patterns out of bone no problem, but I usually use a reinforcement
thick birdseye type of washer system at the pivot. Done right you shoudn't be able to see
the birdseye effect when its peened. I make a thick washer out of rod on a small lathe.
Ken.
Click to expand...

Ken, I don't have a lathe, so I'd rather stick with something I can do without a birdseye. Sounds like bolsters are about the only way to go then.
 
Well here is one just to show you it is possible to do what you want. Use a washer and pein just like a straight razor, I know you know how to do that.

img4503o.jpg

Not mine, borrowed pic.


-Xander
 
Xander,
I do know how to do that! I came to bladeforums from a straight razor forum after completing my first complete ground up build and restoring several others. It might be interesting to try one with a peened washer. Hmmmm.......it's not traditional but who cares?

I'm having trouble finding anything but 1/4" bar nickel silver bar stock. I'd create a lot of waste trying to make it thin enough for small slippies.
 
Ken - could he use precision stainless bearing spacers, maybe he could make the thicker ones work ? Just thinking out loud...
 
Just throwing something out here, I found some 2% silver solder and flux at my local hardware store for less than $10. I know it is just a little lower in tensil strength, but don't know how it would work on stainless. I use it on brass with great results.


-Xander
 
look for nickle silver sheet stock at Jantz(or other places) comes in 1/8 inch.
Darcy:)
 
4% silver solder should be available at any hardware store for under 15 bucks. It sounds like you're pricing high temperature (real) silver solder.
1/4" or less for each bolster.
The birdseye washers are traditional for shadow pattern knives.
http://www.rjleahy.com/store/wire/kwi.htm has NS wire. http://www.whimsie.com/nickel silver wire.html and http://www.sfjssantafe.com/baseitems.php?Gid=MB010&ItemSet=Nickel&DepId=metals have it also.
Most of the knifemakers' supply houses sell NS rod in very limited sizes, which is OK for custom made knives.
 
Well, I was pricing it from USAKnifemakers. That's why I figured it was appropriately priced.

I will call a couple local hardware stores. There is an Ace locally that is very helpful. Just ask for 4% silver solder then?

I have some 1/16" nickel silver rod I've used for razors. I'll probably just stick with appropriately sized rod no more knives than I'm turning out.
 
Last edited:
DEllis said:
look for nickle silver sheet stock at Jantz(or other places) comes in 1/8 inch.
Darcy:)
Click to expand...

Wow, they are proud of that stuff! It's not a bad price comparably, but expensive to mess up practicing. I may just practice on brass, which is cheap at the aforementioned Ace Hardware. Thanks for showing it to me. Maybe on my eleventh knife on I'll use it instead of brass.
 
medicevans said:
Is that ok, being flux core?
Click to expand...

I was just at OSH and saw .25oz of 96/4 rosin core for 3.99 and wondered if it would work as well. I don't think it will because rosin core is usually for electrical work and only requires a litle flux. I don't see an issue using it with regular flux, though.


-Xander
 
BTW, Medic, have you started on your slippy yet? I am working on my handle scales right now and then I am dreading doing the nail nick.


-X
 
Just my thoughts,Order the stay brite solder and stay clean flux from one of the knife suppliers.These are made for use with stainless and NS and bbrass.1oz of 1/16" solder will last a long time.Flatten the solder on a smooth surface with a polished hammer till it's about 1/8"-3/16 wide,I put 3 pieces about 1/8-3/16" long under the bolster and use a spring clamp to hold it in place.Then heat the bolster just till the solder melts.I get good results and it' pretty easy.
Next time I solder bolsters I''ll try and do a short tutorial.Maybe this weekend if nothing gets in the way.
Stan
 
Last edited:
fast14riot said:
BTW, Medic, have you started on your slippy yet? I am working on my handle scales right now and then I am dreading doing the nail nick.


-X
Click to expand...

Not yet, my daughter was born on the 3rd, so just drawing, planning, and thinking right now.
Here's what I've so far;
Need:
2* taper reamer
Solder/flux
Liner and bolster material

Have:
3/32" brass rod for pins
.125 and .130 G10 for scale material
Thicker brass for shadow pattern liners.-not sure what I'm doing yet.
3/32" A2 for blade and spring.

I am still planning on doing at least one solid brass slippie just because I think they look neat. An all high carbon steel would be neat too, just because. Especially an all O1 steel polished to not be able to see the back spring until it's opened.


Now that I know how little solder it takes, 12 feet of solder for ~$11 at USAknifemaker will be just fine. Lol. $20 for solder and flux will last me a while.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top