Bonehead Move Of The Week V 2.0

G

gixxer

Joined
Sep 21, 2006
Messages
1,472
Okay, it's the first time I was using mosaic pins, on a fillet with a pair of SWEET walnut burl scales. I glue up everything, and head over to the arbor press. do I look to make sure they are lined up? HELL NO!! so I used 5min epoxy and it is now 4 hours later. What can I do to knock out said offending pins and put in a fresh pair - without tearing up the scales?? I am kinda scared to put the heat gun to em since the walnut is full of acryloid B72. That wood is so sweet the pic does it no justice.

Tim

booboo.jpg
 
Most often they will come easier than you might think. Most often. Just protect the wood, and drive them out with a hammer and punch.
 
try using the tip of a soldering iron, epoxy loses its streangth when it is heated to high, just be careful not to scorch your wood
 
If the core metal is not stainless you can drill them out. Once they get hot during the drilling they often slide out on their own.
Stacy
 
So don't drill them out...no offense Stacy....
Figure out a new pattern including the pins you used and symetrically add 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 pins to make it "purdy" again.....
"Fix concerns with additions", not alterations.....

Just my 2 cents worth.....no change requested.......
 
Ha..................the "When in doubt, fake them out" school of error correction

I love it

Syn
 
Stick it in an oven (toaster-style) at around 200 F. When it gets to heat, "CAREFULLY" drive out the pins with a punch.

Just remember that mosaic pins have epoxy in them, so if you drive from the center, you will simply drive out the inner design and leave the thong hole tubing.

Take a square-ended small punch and "CAREFULLY" drive out the outer tubing from the edge of the tubing. It helps when you have somebody to hold the hot blade while you drive the tubing out.

Gotta do this when its hot and gotta be careful........ Did I remember to say to be "CAREFUl" ?

Go slow and it will work. How do I know ???????? Been there, done that, and may have a T-Shirt somewhere.:)

Robert
 
Well, I have instruction, but boy am I SCARED! I am sure you guys know what its like to look for the perfect piece of wood for months and find it. Enough of the tiny dude playin the sappy violin music, time to get it fixed. Ugh. I am gonna try the localized heat method, still fearing acryloid B72 meltdown.
 
John, the problem is that they are turned different directions. Any amount of other pins won't make these straight. But your suggestion is often a valid solution.
Stacy
 
gixxer said:
What can I do to knock out said offending pins and put in a fresh pair - without tearing up the scales?? -Tim
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Maybe I'm reading this too literally, but why do you want to take both pins out? Just take out the one you like least, then line up the new one to match it.
 
Chris Meyer said:
Maybe I'm reading this too literally, but why do you want to take both pins out? Just take out the one you like least, then line up the new one to match it.
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Well Chris, neither of em are lined up in any way to the line of the handle. Meaning either one of the three are @ 6 o clock, or two of em are not parallel to the centerline for the handle at the bottom. I wish it was only one cause like you said I would only have to knock one.
 
After heating it up. is the epoxy ruined? If yes the what about the handle epoxy. If no seems to me that you could take the exact same size pin use that to press the pins out alittle spin them to correction position. Then press them flush, let'em cool down
 
I say try lightly tapping with a punch of the correct size first. If you haven't scored the pins on the middle,or peened them a little, they may just drive right out. especially if they heated up much during handle shaping.
 
joe9knives said:
I say try lightly tapping with a punch of the correct size first. If you haven't scored the pins on the middle,or peened them a little, they may just drive right out. especially if they heated up much during handle shaping.
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HEH, those pins did get kinda hot during the initial stock removal on the handle:eek:!!! I need to sell this knife to buy new belts!!! I was using a brokea$$ 60 grit belt for initial stock removal.

On the lighter side of things, this knife should be SWEET! I hand rubbed the blade to 2000 grit.
 
Drive the center of the pins out leaving the tube. Then put he innards back in (the correct clocking so it looks good) while filling with clear epoxy maybe?

thats what I would try.
 
Leave them in. It's not that big of a deal. Why do they have to be positioned just so? Just call it artistic license...
 
Well, I got em out. used the soldering iron method and a dremel 1/8 shaft and the arbor press. The wood ON TOP pulled away from the blade??:confused: But anyhow, the holes got enlarged a hair. No biggie, I should be able to peen the ends a hair. I am confused as to why the top piece pulled although teh press was pushing, and the stuff was flat, already glued before I pushed the pins to begin with. Oh well, time to press on. Chalk this up to another episode of "Learning the Hard Way", starring little Timmy the oblivious soul to paying attention!!:D Stay tuned for V 3.0, coming hopefully later than sooner!! thanks for all the help guys.

Tim
 
tmickley said:
Leave them in. It's not that big of a deal. Why do they have to be positioned just so? Just call it artistic license...
Click to expand...

I recall another thread about mosaic pins where most folks said the the thing that annoys them the most are mosaic pins that are not lined up. Not that I am trying to please people I have never met, but I need to hold my standards high if I want to get better and sell my stuff. But I do wish I could have left them the way they were.
 
Put it this way: I would happily buy a knife from a maker like you who puts so much attention to detail. I tend to agree with Tracey M here.. The pattern is pretty discrete and wont stand out, and that walnut burl is Beeeeeeuatiful. I wouldnt risk damage to that. Nonetheless, glad you had some success, hope the knife turns out as you hope.

Lang
 
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