Boss jack vs basic 6

[Nealgl1985]

How do the paper micarta handles grip compared to the res-c? I like the grip and feel of the res-c but have never used a knife with them. I have never handled a paper micarta, g10, or regular micarta before.

 

[adrock1978]

Dr barnes... I go camping and hunting. So it would be for outdoor uses. Definitely not a EDC, a little large for my EDC needs. Last visible canary... Very interesting point on the fasteners going before the handle material. Liu kang... I was leaning towards the basic because of such limited production, the handle, and there's something about the satin that I really like. Everyone makes good points and I enjoy reading what people with busse experience think about different models. Thanks again for everyone's thoughts on the subject. I might be leaning towards the basic but we will see. I might just have to get them both. I was just trying to get one blade in each size. It would have been a lot easier to decide if they released the basic 10 first. Only time will tell.

Well if it helps your decision at all, the BJ is practically satin underneath. Its the best of both worlds. Use it, then strip it and enjoy the new satin finish. I did exactly what LVC mentioned... I replaced the tubes on my BJ with screws and stand offs. Its a bomb proof knife.

 

[Nealgl1985]

Did you get the screws at the hardware store or did busse do it. If you did it yourself did you drill them out? How did you go about doing something like that?

 

[adrock1978]

I ordered them from a knife kit website. They're usually referred to as Chicago screws I think. Its 2 torx head screws, screwed into either side of a center barrel shaped cylinder. I drilled out the tubes myself with a hand drill. It was easy, considering it was my first time. I don't mean to come off argumentative or negative about the basic 6. I just absolutely love my boss jack. Its become a project knife. I bought the CG, stripped it, polished it to a mirror satin finish, removed the scales and got new fasteners. Seems like a lot to take on, but it was worth it. I'm now in the process of making my own scales for it out of 3 different colors of G10 and micarta. When I'm done I'll be able to swap handles based on my mood All done for the the first time, too.

 

[Allcaps321]

I don't know how much this will help you Nealgl1985 but I was able to tie 60lbs to a war dog and a few different papers and canvas micarta handled knives and was able to hold on to all them just fine even when wet or oily. So I think they grip just fine, as far as how they feel well that is to much of a personal preference for me to say, but there is a lot of love for both.

 

[BigLebowski65]

Excuse me? I'm not your pal, and I'm not talking out of my ass d!ck head. So save your ignorant comments. Anyone can tell you a G10 handled knife will hold up much better to any kind of chemical reactions, or degradation from sunlight, or anything you can throw at it compared to Res-C. You ever try to cut into G10? I've busted carbide blades trying to make my own G10 slabs for my Boss Jack. A simple box cutter can make short work of a Res-C handle. I took a giant chunk out of the res-c on my dog father, with one bad swing into a log. Never saw that happen to micarta or G10. And simple physics can tell you that a tapered tang at 1/2" wide, or whatever it is under the Res-C wont be as strong as a full 1 inch+ wide tang on a boss jack. I'm not saying the basic tang is brittle, or weak. It just wont be as strong. And again, moving on to the tube fasteners. What sounds stronger to you, one tube faster at the far end, or 3 tube fasteners equally spaced down the knife? If I'm spending my money on a bomb proof knife, its going to be the knife with better materials, and more of it in all the right places.

You may not be my pal, but you sure sound like someone’s squaw. The point of posting this video of over the top destruction test was that the knife gave in well before the handle did, so your claim of one material being stronger that the other, is meaningless, same goes for the full tang vs. the “compromised” Basic. Had you paused before running you big mouth you’d figured this out all by yourself.

.........hold up much better to any kind of chemical reactions…. A simple box cutter can make short work of a Res-C handle…..??? Give your head a shake next time before presenting “your opinion”.

 

[Last Visible Canary]

chicago screws:

corby bolts:

screws and standoffs:

flared tube fastener:

To make the argument that an exposed tang knife is inherently and always better than a rubber handled knife is to disregard the reality that there are multiple uses and needs for a knife as a tool. Not all applications require "bomb proof" and may suffer in their performance due to overbuilding. Jerry's post about producing a harder variation of INFI is an example of this. Why would you ever choose to use something less bombproof than standard 58rc INFI? Because performance is important. One category of performance does not prevail over all others in all instances.

Personally I would go with the boss jack over the B6 because of the presence of a choil and because I don't prefer rubber handles. But to play the devils advocate:

The benefit of the basic 6 over the boss jack:
--It's got a wider taller blade that will keep the weight at the front end. One could argue that the BOSS jack proto (especially the choiless) makes up for not being as tall by having a thicker saber convex grind - chances are the weights would even out or trend towards the taller basic 6.
--Given that the blade is likely as heavy or heavier than the boss jack, the lack of an exposed tang will give it a more forward balance, making it feel more like a chopper in the hand but also a lighter overall package. For those who count ounces while packing but want something they can abuse, this is a benefit.
--Reciprene c is insulating in cold weather and can reduce the amplifying effects of vibration shock on cold hands. If it's -10 with heavy winds, the boss jack will get very cold very fast. You could say 'but I'll just wear gloves', but your still slamming a knife into frozen wood in -10 degrees, it's going to hurt. Reciprene c helps.
--Even though the handle is only held on by one tube fastener, it's easily affixed to the tang if the tube ever becomes damaged or completely destroyed. You can tightly tie some paracord through the hole and around the handle and it will hold on just fine. You can't do that with a damaged exposed tang knife. At best you might be able to wrap the handle completely in paracord to reduce the pinching/sharp edge of the sheered scales, or hold them on if the handles have been completely knocked off.
--The difference in strength of the basic series tang vs. the boss jack tang is unlikely to be within the range of your ability to break it by hand. And chances are your not going to be using a pipe to assist in added leverage while prying anything in the field. If it's already strong enough that you won't be able to break it by hand - do you need the extra weight/lost benefits of a rubber handle?
--Yes g10 is more resistant to acids, but seriously, how often are you going to get acid on your knife? If you work with a knife around old batteries a lot, work in a lab or on rocks where you use a lot of hydrochloric acid, perhaps. But that is a very, very, very small group of people, and within that small set it would be hard to come up with an instance where they would have their knife interact with that acid.
--Yes the handle can be damaged through sharp edges or animals eating it. This effects people who leave there gear out where animals can get at it, or those who do tasks that can damage it or those who care about visual aesthetics as though they affected performance. If your going to damage the resiprene c it's going to be in one of 3 locations, at the spine before the hand where you'll hit it with a baton, at the pommel where you'd hit it with a baton while driving it straight into something, or at the front end where you'd miss and smash it on a log/rock. None of these locations are directly under the hand, none of them directly affect the ability of the knife to be used as a knife or compromise the grip. Yeah, it looks bad, but it's as usable as the day it was manufactured. Again, is it worth giving up the benefits for the "bomb proofing"? Plenty would say no with good reason.

 

[Edw00d]

Canary, most excellent points and observations.

As much as I love my FSH, the pointy skull crusher is actually a liability for me. It makes it pretty much useless for hammering the end by hand. Would be extremely painful not to mention harmful to one's hand, even with thick gloves on.

I scenario I can imagine, is using a Busse as a pry bar to get a house door, or car door open in an emergency. Would be much easier with a Res-C handle, with the "cushioned" end. Although putting one's full weight on the handle for prying would make me more nervous with the Basic, vs Full tang, but it would be much more difficult to jam the blade into a door jamb. Ironic that the Full Tang Busse is better for prying, but more difficult to do so without a hammer.

 

[BigLebowski65]

LVC, Yoda of Busse force you are...:thumbup:

 

[Newazzkikr]

LVC made great points once again but let's move from comparing just 2 different handles to comparing 2 different knifes like they are built. Between those two I would pick Boss Jack just because of the no-choil option. In the knife of this size I prefer not to have the choil. You can get perfect control over the knife without putting your finger near cutting blade. You can actually use this extra blade for pulling a lot greater pressure near your handle where your hand is holding it when cutting some thick layers of something... ropes or whatever (previously pointed by LVC in other thread). That is kind of a downside to Basic 6 (for my use).

On the positives of Basic 6: You will not be battoning this knife on its spine. I'm talking for myself. I would rather use tip splitting method to slit some smaller wood. You mentioned that you will use it in woods so I believe you will use it for food prep as well and maybe not just for yourself but for your girlfriend or our mum and satin blade with rubber handle is much better for that kind of use. On the other hand, coated blade of BJ will be rejected by your women company in this area. Yea you can say that you will strip it but that's something I just don't do with my knifes. I like them the way they came the first time.

Another important point is the blade grind. Full flat will be perfect I think for a knife of this size in universal use. On the other hand I personally don't like the way Boss Jacks are grind. Just way too thick convex for me for a blade of such a short width.

And the final point would be the thread that is still on the front page here mentioning a Boss Jack in a leather sheat on a belt. Its owner just set on it "accidentally" and bent the tip on a BJLE. I've got nothing to say about it...it's just very interesting to see something like that on a knife that is built to last VERY long time.

 

[adrock1978]

You may not be my pal, but you sure sound like someone’s squaw. The point of posting this video of over the top destruction test was that the knife gave in well before the handle did, so your claim of one material being stronger that the other, is meaningless, same goes for the full tang vs. the “compromised” Basic. Had you paused before running you big mouth you’d figured this out all by yourself.

.........hold up much better to any kind of chemical reactions…. A simple box cutter can make short work of a Res-C handle…..??? Give your head a shake next time before presenting “your opinion”.

You're making no sense dude. Your silly destruction video has no bearing on G10 being stronger than Res-C. Its a plain, simple, no room for interpretation, fact. Did your video display Res-C vs. G10? No. So what was the point of it? I mean, I'm really confused as to what you're disputing. Even if you do disagree with what I feel is plainly obvious, who are you to tell me my opinion is not valid, and go as far as saying I'm talking out of my ass? Really man... can you present legit counter arguments to my opinion (and what seems like fact to me) that G10 or Micarta is favorable to RES-C in regards to strength and durability? Why does Jerry use G10/Micarta on 98% of his designs? We can't discuss it logically without you getting bent outta shape and making it personal?

 

[adrock1978]

LVC, I hate to ever disagree with you because you always pose such rational, thought out answers. It is always better to have multiple tools for different jobs. Its impossible to do every task with one sledge hammer. But when someone poses a "which one or the other" question, I'd tend to go with the over built option that IMO can handle more of a broad range of tasks. If given the choice between a 16oz finishing hammer or a 26oz framing hammer, I'd go with the framing hammer. In this case, where its a question of which knife, I think the people who responded with "well what will you be using it for?" had the best answer. I answered based on my opinions, and uses and priorities. Plus, I'd rather make a purchase with every foreseeable use in mind, that wont limit me later, if my intended uses broaden. I feel that's the way Jerry designs his knives. That's why I don't favor any of the basic line. They seem to fill a niche, or intended use, or cater more to their inherent advantages rather than cover a broad spectrum of uses like (again IMO) a typical Busse. I feel like anyone who would choose a B11 over a BWM or a FBM or a NMFBM is choosing it for its unique advantages (like weight or price or comfort) whereas someone with a NMFBM knows they're sacrificing weight and they're wallet for the added benefit of the all out nuclear proof, over built, no worries design.

 

[thatmguy]

Let's keep the personal crap out of this guys.

Opinions, rationale, and reasons are what belong in the responses, not personal attacks.

I'd hate to see this have any negative outcomes when it should be nothing more than an informational exchange....

 

[Last Visible Canary]

LVC, I hate to ever disagree with you because you always pose such rational, thought out answers. It is always better to have multiple tools for different jobs. Its impossible to do every task with one sledge hammer. But when someone poses a "which one or the other" question, I'd tend to go with the over built option that IMO can handle more of a broad range of tasks. If given the choice between a 16oz finishing hammer or a 26oz framing hammer, I'd go with the framing hammer. In this case, where its a question of which knife, I think the people who responded with "well what will you be using it for?" had the best answer. I answered based on my opinions, and uses and priorities. Plus, I'd rather make a purchase with every foreseeable use in mind, that wont limit me later, if my intended uses broaden. I feel that's the way Jerry designs his knives. That's why I don't favor any of the basic line. They seem to fill a niche, or intended use, or cater more to their inherent advantages rather than cover a broad spectrum of uses like (again IMO) a typical Busse. I feel like anyone who would choose a B11 over a BWM or a FBM or a NMFBM is choosing it for its unique advantages (like weight or price or comfort) whereas someone with a NMFBM knows they're sacrificing weight and they're wallet for the added benefit of the all out nuclear proof, over built, no worries design.

Anytime someone gives a really strong opinion on a topic one way or the other, I tend to want to give an equally strong rebuttal. Despite the reasons for going with the basic 6, I'd go with the Choiless BOSS Jack without hesitation.

Having a no choil in the sub-8" range will always push me towards whatever model it is, even if I prefer the choiled model's looks and function. But comparing the handles, When I used the battle rat, bandicoot and howling rat I found that the handle felt very plain in the hand, it didn't melt into it like the TTKZ's handle and it didn't feel like I had a lot of good textured grip points like the Basic 9/11 handles. It just didn't speak to me. The boss jack handle feels like exactly what I want in that size of knife, smooth but grippy, it fits my hand, it has multiple grip positions and is comfortable in all of them.

If I bought the basic 6 I'd be doing so for an edc knife, which I think the BOSS jack is better suited for. It's slimmer and more stream lined and is less likely to feel bulky on the hip, even though it will likely be heavier. Though it weighs on your belt more, it would jut out less and look less conspicuous.

The basic 6, having a wider blade, may actually be a little stronger for prying than the BOSS jack and more able to do torsional motions (trying to pry something up by turning the knife rather than prying), but that isn't something I need or prefer over a slimline profile. You have 3 options for BOSS jack models, the Proto, CG or LE. If you want ultra-thick-beater the Proto's work well as prybars/choppers. If you want a mix of better cutting ability with strength, the CG's are a flatter thinner convex. If you want better slicing ability, the LEs give you a 3/16" thick blade with a flat 3/4 saber grind. Not an ideal slicer, but with it's thinner stock it will likely be similar in grind to the basic 6 at the same height, and probably thinner at the edge.

And last but not least, I consider the Choiless BOSS Jack to be one of the better 'fighter' models busse has produced. It's not particularly a fighter in image, but it has all the features I have to have to even consider it. The 1/8" version I have is thin, it's choiless, it's long enough, it's got secure ergonomics, and it's compact for what you get. I'd prefer it to have a pointier tip, but I'm okay with it as is. The choil and the taller blade on the basic 6 feel less so to me (The choil is an automatic not-a-fighter for me). Am I ever going to use it in a fighter capacity? 99.999999999999999999% no. But it's a nice comfort knowing it's there.

 

[Last Visible Canary]

LVC, I hate to ever disagree with you because you always pose such rational, thought out answers.

Disagree with me on any point you think is wrong, If your reasons are good I'll probably agree with you and modify my position :thumbup:

 

[Last Visible Canary]

How do the paper micarta handles grip compared to the res-c? I like the grip and feel of the res-c but have never used a knife with them. I have never handled a paper micarta, g10, or regular micarta before.

Paper micarta is very smooth, even with extensive machining like the quilt pattern found on the BOSS streets it still feels a little slick in the hand, especially when oiled. The reciprene c feels much grippier, as any harder rubber will. Think of it like gripping a tire, but with less likelyhood of getting hotspots on your hands.

 

[snwbrdr202]

I just placed my order for another BOSS Jack! As good as the Basic looks, the Jack is a modern remake of a Busse Combat classic. Very versatile, practical, and easy on the eyes. I would go with the BJ; just my 2 cents

 

[J. Oeser]

Sounds like instead of basing my next purchase on functionality of the knife I should base it on whether it is the most bomb proof.

LVC, I think I'm with you.

I kept my B11 and sold my BWM because it has a longer blade, IMO chops better, is more comfortable and weighs a lot less. I've chipped chunks out of black paper micarta handles and dented g-10 handles. Haven't had those issues with the res-c.

In this scenario I would go with the choilless BOSS Jack hands down.

 

[adrock1978]

Disagree with me on any point you think is wrong, If your reasons are good I'll probably agree with you and modify my position :thumbup:

Cool. Its not the disagreements I stay away from. Too many times differences of opinion get perceived as arguing, which I didn't want to imply.

 

[adrock1978]

Sounds like instead of basing my next purchase on functionality of the knife I should base it on whether it is the most bomb proof.

That sounds like its directed at me, so I'll respond. That's not what I'm implying. When I buy anything (especially upwards of $200+) I try to get the item that will cover the most of my needs. Current or future. Especially when its a "this or that" scenario. The OP didn't come out and say he wanted a "slicer" or a cold weather knife, or any other specific use... so I suggest something that in my opinion will be more robust in all situations.