Bought a Mora & question about thin knives

Gave my 840 more abuse this weekend than I had ever planned on giving it. I'd planned on early fall weather and wound up with mid-winter conditions on my backpacking trip. These knives deserve 'all the hubub' that they get-I was carving stakes, pot hooks and drying hooks, you name it-out of frozen pine. The 840MG is fast becoming one of my favorite users instead of a mere inexpensive disposable backup.
 
Gave my 840 more abuse this weekend than I had ever planned on giving it. I'd planned on early fall weather and wound up with mid-winter conditions on my backpacking trip. These knives deserve 'all the hubub' that they get-I was carving stakes, pot hooks and drying hooks, you name it-out of frozen pine. Also making feather sticks and shavings for kindling was alot easier than I had expected considering the condition of the wood. The 840MG is fast becoming one of my favorite users instead of a mere inexpensive disposable backup.
 
Lots of geek questions, sorry....

Relating to scandi grinds, is there some sort of a ratio between how thin (or thick) a blade is and how high the grind should be? i.e 4mm thick 10mm high zero grind, 2mm thick 5mm high zero grind....

Are there some steels which might not suit a thin blade scandi, particularly one with a high grind?

On a thin scandi (say, less than 1/8" thick) would people give it a zero edge, secondary bevel, or convex?
 
Both the angle of the grind and the width of the blade will determine how high it is. If you're using a thicker angle, it will be shallower than a thinner angle. If you're using a thicker blade, it will be higher than a thinner blade. The whole point of a scandi is its zero edge, IE only one bevel. There are flat and convex bevels, though with a thin belt knife I would probably go flat. I have a really nice thicker camp knife with a zerovex edge and it is fantastic as well, though it's more fore durability in processing frozen hardwoods than it is for edgeholding or slicing capability.
 
Yorkshire Boy said:
Lots of geek questions, sorry....

Relating to scandi grinds, is there some sort of a ratio between how thin (or thick) a blade is and how high the grind should be? i.e 4mm thick 10mm high zero grind, 2mm thick 5mm high zero grind....

Are there some steels which might not suit a thin blade scandi, particularly one with a high grind?

On a thin scandi (say, less than 1/8" thick) would people give it a zero edge, secondary bevel, or convex?
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Instead of thinking about it as how long the bevel is, think about it as what angle you want the scandi. Small angle on a thick knife will give you a long bevel where the same angle on a thin knife will be a short bevel. You want the angle to be as small as possible while still keeping it thick enough that the edge doesn't chip or damage easily. I've heard some of the makers around here use 12.5 degrees per side which IMO is really the smallest angle you can get away with.
 
I think the perfect combination is 10 degree bevel with a very very tiny microbevel. That way you can keep the same edge geometry through the life of the knife, it's thin and cuts well and the tiny microbevel provides strength. Just my opinion.
 
One thing I did with my 840 mora was partially eradicate the scandi grind shoulder by smoothing it out with 180 grit sandpaper on a 3inch wide block. I rubbed it on the sandpaper back and forth until I had it smoothed out. I did not contact the blade edge with the sandpaper, just got the scandi grind ridge out. Then I polished it up with 600, and then 1000 grit wet/dry. It isnt a full flat grind, but it really improved the slicing ability. And I didn't worry too much, it's a $16 dollar knife. I love it even more. I want to get the Mora Robust and do the same kind of mod on that one too. I agree with you pros out there that thin blades are more useful and practical for everyday use. I couldn't live without my BK2's, but a FFG Mora would be great, and since I dont think one is factory made, I made one to suit my wants.
John
 
Brian Andrews said:
I am a thin scandi lover as well :)

You pretty much pointed out the big draw back of the scandi ground knives. I find that the thinner stock still gives you a wide enough bevel to have the scandi control, and also to carve like you expect it to, but still thin enough to slice through less deformable objects.

My current favorite scandi/carver is 3/32".

I tried going down to 1/16" and while it cut like a demon, I wasn't happy with the bevel size (and loss of control) with that thin of stock. Although, it was one heck of a cutter for sure!

My latest 1/16" project was an Ulu. Of course, it is not a scandi, but it one heck of a cutter. I love the thin : )

Most makers will make anything you request. So, I don't think you will have issue finding someone to make what you want. The price point might be a little harder. I know I can't work that cheap :o

B
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A Sabitier 7" Cleaver with a 1/16th thickness

Chops and slices like a lazer
It had a very obtuse angle grind
And I sharpened it to a sloppy convex

It is resting on its sweet spot
It must be an awesome butcher's knife

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I had Adventure Sworn make this one for me. The blade is 3 1/8 and 3/32. Great slicer! Interesting that the scandi grind of the scandi knives adopted but not the thin blades overall.

carver6.jpg

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Shotgun,

On non Scandi thin blades. Have you ever seen the Green River Ripper blade? I've always wanted to buy one and put a micarta handle on. Very thin and nice shape!

http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/mercha...t_Code=4866-120-013&Category_Code=841-100-100
 
I have a Richards (Sheffield) Green River that I got in the 60s
And it is a thin flat steel
And works wonders
 
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