How To Bought my first Case knive in Tru-Sharp stainless, now what?

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Hi all, a very short introduction. I used to be a member here but lost those account details some time ago. I am glad to be back because I always enjoyed this place.

Now to my question :)

Today I bought my very first Case knive, a trapper in Tru-Sharp stainless. From what I read about Case, I have to expect a facory edge that will likely need deburring.

How should I go about this considering the tools I currently have at hand? They are a Fälkniven DC-4 stone, a DMT blue/coarse stone and a plain leather strop.
 
Either of your diamond hones can do a good job reducing or eliminating the burrs - at least to a point they're thin enough, your plain leather strop can finish it up. I've liked DMT hones for how clean they're capable of leaving the edge after sharpening, as compared to other diamond brands. The Fallkniven DC-4 is also pretty good by comparison - I have one of those, and many of the DMTs. When using diamond hones, I generally prefer finishing the edge using a 'Fine' diamond (DMT 600 / 25 micron), which also matches Fallkniven's diamond spec @ 25 micron on the DC4. But Case's stainless also responds very well to good-quality stones in aluminum oxide, like a Norton India Fine stone - overall my favorite for Case's blades in either stainless or CV, especially for setting new edges. And for subsequent refinement and touchups after that, good ceramics like Spyderco's medium or fine hones work very well with Case's steels and many others.

The whole key to good deburring is all about gradually decreasing pressure as you progress from setting a new bevel and then to refining and deburring. Just a featherlight, brushing pass or two on the diamond can clean up most of any burrs left. With diamond especially, the absolute lightest touch you can manage is always best for the finishing touches on the edge. This is always good practice in general, for any sharpening - but with a plated diamond hone, because it cuts the steel so effortlessly, anything heavy for pressure is overkill and will also do more harm than good to the fineness of the finished edge.
 
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I believe Case Tru-Sharp is plain old 420HC, nothing special. It is probably run a little softer than Buck's, so easy to sharpen on just about any hone.
 
Yes, 'Tru-Sharp' is 420HC. Case spec's its hardness in the HRC 55-57 range - a little less hard than Buck's 420HC (HRC 57-59). That means the burrs will be a little more ductile ('bendy') on the Case blades and will take slightly more work to clean up. The burrs on Buck's 420HC blades tend to be a bit more brittle and will break away sooner, once they're thin enough. In terms of just sharpening either of them, they feel almost indestinguishable from one another on something like an India stone (aluminum oxide), which handles both of them easily.

I've found that the slightly softer Case 420HC, because it's not quite as brittle at the edge, will tend to retain a finer, more hair-popping shaving sharpness a bit longer, so long as it's dedicated only for that sort of fine cutting - it'll tend to roll or deform more easily in heavier use at that high finish. The slightly harder Buck 420HC tends to be a little more brittle at the edge. At a higher finish, it'll be more stable for heavier work like cutting cardboard, etc. But really fine, shaving-sharp edges tend to go away more quickly on the Buck blades, even by a little too much stropping at times. But the working edge left on the Buck, after the hair-popping sharpness goes away, is more stable for heavier cutting.

And relatively narrow edge geometry, like 25° - 30° inclusive, will improve the functional (useful) edge retention in either of them. That's simply due to the thinness of the steel behind the apex, after the apex dulls a little bit. I set the edges in ALL of my knives in that range, and they hold up well in normal uses.

Most of what I carry & use these days is either or both of Case & Buck blades, in their standard 420HC stainless. So, I'm noticing these subtle differences between them all the time in use and when I touch them up.
 
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