bow problem...got a few questions

RescueRiley

RescueRiley

Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
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So I recently got my recurve ( a pse impala) just a starter bow ...back from a relative I'd llent it to. I went to put it together and realized that one of the pegs that helps stabilze the limb in the riser was missing..so I cut a small dowel to substitute. I strang it up took a few shots which all seemd to pull of to the left on clser inspection I saw the string kept slipping on the bottom limb. I brought it to the proshop and they confirmed my fears that my bottom limb is twisted. So I need to get a new set of limbs..My first question is, is it worth getting a new set of limbs or should I just spring for a new bow,,,My second question is, are twisted limbs and pronlems in general more likely to occur in a takedown bow?? would I be better off getting a solid bow? he good news is that my group was pretty tight with the twisted limb so I'm hoping once this is "straightend out" forgive the pun, that I'll be spot on.
 
As far as cost, I'd have to say you'll have to ask how much a new set of limbs is and see how much a new bow is. You may want to look at getting into a different bow entirely...Perhaps even a custom! :) As to the difference in this problem with a takedown or a single piece bow, there isn't one. The items below can contribute to the same problem with either type. Ask yourself the following questions and you'll probably learn how it twisted.

Now as far as the twist itself. Have you and the borrower been using a 'stringer' to string this bow? Or have you been using the 'push-pull' technique or 'step through' technique to string/unstring it? If you do NOT have a stringer, GET ONE! The other two techniques about guarantee a limb will eventually get twisted...

Also, how is the bow being stored? Is it kept strung or unstrung? How is it positioned when stored? Is it in a hard case? Is it hung up? Is it hung up horizintally or vertically? Is it being set on the floor in a corner on a tip? (SHUDDER!)

A bow needs to be stored either in a hard case unstrung, or hung horizontally, strung or unstrung or in a soft case. Some store them vertically by a hook/nail, but I don't prefer this method myself.

Also, beware having a bow in a vehicle in even 'mild' weather as they can act as an oven with sunlight. This is a good way for a limb to delaminate!!

Feel free to PM/email me if you have some more specific questions! I've had the same takedown recurve for 16 years now! :)
 
There is a way to straighten the limb, but I forget all the particulars.

With the busted limb stud, you might be better off buying another bow anyways.
 
The limb can be straightened with a heat gun. If you figure it's shot anyway, what have you got to lose?
Heat it and twist it the other way; hold it there a bit and see what you get.
 
I have an old Indian recurve in the garage with a twisted limb. I tried heating it and twisting the opposite way to get the twist out, but you have to be CAREFUL! Too hot, and you'll delaminate the limb for sure. The best bet is to use STEAM, but my guess is, if it actually comes unstrung it's too far twisted to straighten. My Indian will not come unstrung, but it doesn't shoot straight either!
 
THanks guys...when I asked my bro for it back he pulled uncased out of his damp uninsulated garage...mystery solved...Gonna have to think about this, Tried calling the company but they're closed till tuesday. I figure if the limbs are more than a hundred bucks I'll probably just get a new bow. I'm still too new for a custom, but I was thinking about a martin I like the rebel for the size 52 inches but I hear the shoter bows are less forgiving. Thanks again for the help.
 
If you can start off with a Martin x200 type bow you will be better off I would say. Heard too many de-lamination stories and poor quality from PSE recurves.

TS
 
I have a PSE Buckeye that actually came with twisted limbs. You can, in fact, get new limbs for your bow, probably for about $100-$150. The Martin X-200 is a nice recurve, from what I've heard. But getting a one piece bow won't prevent twisting from happening. Still gotta be careful.
 
If you decide on a new bow take a look at CheckMate and Quinn.Best for the money.Around $250.Trust me I have had a LOT of bows.
 
:thumbup: for chek-mate bows. Owned a Crusader and still own a Hunter II takedown. Gonna get me another TD Crusader, I really liked that bow, but the Hunter is downright awesome in it's own right.
 
Chek-mate bows are a very fair deal and good customer service, Built in B.C. I own a 60# hunter. All those I know who shot the x200 love it, smooth durable and affordable for a so called starter bow (but I say even advanced archers would like it).But seriously, the PSE is a good price, but again too many quality control issues...

TS
 
I have been looking at the chekmat falcon, and the martin rebel, I really like the loos of the rebel and the size although not woth out diasadvantages lends it self to blind and treestand use ase well as portability, it's 52 inches long, any thoughts?? any body heard anything about these?
 
In general a short bow might be easier to maneuver in tight places but will be a little more difficult to shoot accurately.It is a trade off that you have to decide on.The finger pinch on a shorter bow will be worse the longer your draw is and a particular bow might stack at longer draws also contributing to less accuracy.What you have to decide is how far you will be shooting and how much it will matter.

I would advise anyone to shoot a bow before purchase if possible.I've spent $1000 on a custom bow only to see when it arrived I didn't really like it.

I've owned a Falcon that I liked, although I found it louder than some other bows.Not bad and I didn't try too hard to quieten it. I've not tried a 52 in. Rebel as my draw is 30 in. and I don't shoot short bows well. I shoot 60 in. and up.
 
short bow = less forgiveness in shooting, R.H. has it right. A friend of mind modified his rebel to shoot faster (reinforced the tips for fastflight string, profiled the tips shorter added some more glass to the backing and dropped brace height right down) Let me say this bow is just on the edge, but then again he lives life on the edge. Moral of the story it is a very efficient bow, however, probably not suited for those just starting out in the trad game.

TS
 
cool thanks right now I'm looking at the martin x200, the checkmate falcon, and the fred bear grizzly, any thoughts ??? I'd like a takedown but the only ones that seem in my price range (less than 225-300) are pse's and I am officialy now not a big fan.
 
All good bows but only you can decide what is best for you.A bow is kind of like a pair of shoes.Not all models are good for everything and not one size fits all.What is your draw length?

A Quinn Stallion would be my top choice for that money but I like metal risers.Next would be the Falcon they have a 2 year full waranty.A take down Stallion would give you an option of heavy and light limbs and 60 in. to 64 in.

Have you contacted PSE about the warranty? I know of one guy they treated right.

I am not sure of the policy here but if it is ok I could post a web site for trad archery where you could look at a lot of used bows in that price range.
 
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