Bowie advice, please

daveinvegas

daveinvegas

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Jan 2, 2009
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I am working on a farrier's rasp Bowie (WIP photos in my photo album).

I should have asked earlier about this but I was wondering about the location of the point of the blade. I have located the point just a tad above the center line of the blade (about 1/4"). What say ya'll?

Also, the rasp is slightly bent. I would appreciate suggestions about how I might straighten it.

Thanks
 
Point location is really not critical in a mechanical sense. Some like the point of any fighting knife center of grip center, but Bowies are generally considered to be used as slashing blades, so then you might want the point higher to present more cutting edge when in the motion of slashing. I would think, anything center, or above, that looks good to you, and still has a respectable penetration angle to the point.
 
One of the advantages of the classic bowie design is the use of the sharpened swedge. Employed in a back-slash, it is VERY quick.

With that in mind, you may actually want the point lower than center, to maximize the length of the swedge. A sharp, slightly concave swedge used in this manner is absolutely vicious. At least on cardboard boxes; I've never been in a knife fight and hope I never am. :o

See Bill Bagwell's "Bowies, Big Knives and the Best of Battle Blades" for a more thorough description. Some of his fighters are nearly straight along the main edge, with a clip point similar to an old Viking seax.
 
I'd say app. middle of the handle

I straighten steel by having it on two blocks of wood and press it down with a glue clamp or some light tabs with a rubber hammer. (the last for the final ajustment)
 
OK, so I'll have to move the point down a bit.

Thanks

I almost forgot; the false edge on the top of the blade isn't supposed to be excessively sharp; is that correct?

Thanks again.
 

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Where the tip lays, the length and shape of the swedge and how sharp it is really depends on the intended use of the knife. If it is to be a utility/user bowie then the tip geometry isn't as vital. If the knife is intended to be a "fighting bowie" then I would say to follow Bill Bagwells advice.

Years ago I had the privilege of getting to spend a couple of days with Bill in Washington at the Riddle of Steel training camp. He is a wealth of knowledge about bowies and I still have the notes that I took while talking to him (they are around here somewhere).

I would say to lay it all out and then step back and look at it. Figure out what you think looks right and go from there.

SDS

ps-please post pictures?
 
I have a booklet about a very large 1800's bowie knife collection.
The bowies there with a clip have them sharpend. So I assume that that was how the 'originals' were.
I see no point in having a dull clip.
 
Does the book say specifically that they are sharpened, or do they just come to an edge, or are you guessing by the photos? The original intent of a false edge is to aid penetration. To get as good an edge as the main edge, the false edge bevels would need to be, or close to, the same angle. Most false edges on originals are obviously not that wide, but if brought to an edge would still inflict great damage in a forceful blow.
 
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