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Bowie Design Critique Please
- Thread starter deker
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
Well...here ya go...
Had some time on the CAD machine this morning while I'm waiting for somebody else...(and it looks like 10 more people have posted in the time I've taken to draw this up...hope my comments aren't redundant)
Here's your knife:
Here's the re-design:
This time with notations:
(looks like the "1" got cut off...it's supposed to be out by the tip)
1 - raised the tip
2 - straightened/flattened the spine back to the guard
3 - lowered the top of the guard by 1/4"
4 - raised and straightened the top of the grind (flat ground, I assume?)
5 - plunge on a slight angle
6 - straightened the bottom of the ricasso (choil)
7 - straightened the edge
8 - rotated the handle down (pivot point = top of spacer)
Reasoning:
a. Having all your lines moving in parallel lines really dresses it up.
b. Handles should drop at the butt. Yours is rotated such that (along with the blade spine) there is a "dip" at the guard. Not as strong/striking in design/appearance. Also makes the guard seem "off angle".
c. The tip is a bit low (relative to the blade). I like the tall belly...but a higher tip would look better
The overall dimensions are fine. 4.5" for handle is perfect.
The blade on my redesign is about 2" tall - a good bowie size.
If you like, (and this offer applies only to you, only right now...today)...post more ideas and I'll redo this CAD drawing until you like it...print it at 1:1 and drop a few copies in the mail - for use as a template.
Just trying to help a fellow maker out.
:thumbup:
Had some time on the CAD machine this morning while I'm waiting for somebody else...(and it looks like 10 more people have posted in the time I've taken to draw this up...hope my comments aren't redundant)
Here's your knife:
Here's the re-design:
This time with notations:
(looks like the "1" got cut off...it's supposed to be out by the tip)
1 - raised the tip
2 - straightened/flattened the spine back to the guard
3 - lowered the top of the guard by 1/4"
4 - raised and straightened the top of the grind (flat ground, I assume?)
5 - plunge on a slight angle
6 - straightened the bottom of the ricasso (choil)
7 - straightened the edge
8 - rotated the handle down (pivot point = top of spacer)
Reasoning:
a. Having all your lines moving in parallel lines really dresses it up.
b. Handles should drop at the butt. Yours is rotated such that (along with the blade spine) there is a "dip" at the guard. Not as strong/striking in design/appearance. Also makes the guard seem "off angle".
c. The tip is a bit low (relative to the blade). I like the tall belly...but a higher tip would look better
The overall dimensions are fine. 4.5" for handle is perfect.
The blade on my redesign is about 2" tall - a good bowie size.
If you like, (and this offer applies only to you, only right now...today)...post more ideas and I'll redo this CAD drawing until you like it...print it at 1:1 and drop a few copies in the mail - for use as a template.
Just trying to help a fellow maker out.
:thumbup:
Try #2. Incorporating some suggestions from people (better match on blade/handle ratio, deeper false edge, slightly longer clip, and a slight recurve). I know the handle still needs more downturn, but I have a harder tim drawing that than I do making it 
So, how about this?
-d
So, how about this?
-d
deker, dont make that thing how I wanna see it!! damn it!! lol
Anyway...I've been waiting since lunch for the neighbur to bring in her washing off the line, but its gone 5pm now....sod her!... I got some hot stamping/engraving to be done...
This thread should have a hundred replies in a few days....hot topic, g/l deker
Anyway...I've been waiting since lunch for the neighbur to bring in her washing off the line, but its gone 5pm now....sod her!... I got some hot stamping/engraving to be done...
This thread should have a hundred replies in a few days....hot topic, g/l deker
Well...here ya go...
This time with notations:
(looks like the "1" got cut off...it's supposed to be out by the tip)
1 - raised the tip
2 - straightened/flattened the spine back to the guard
3 - lowered the top of the guard by 1/4"
4 - raised and straightened the top of the grind (flat ground, I assume?)
5 - plunge on a slight angle
6 - straightened the bottom of the ricasso (choil)
7 - straightened the edge
8 - rotated the handle down (pivot point = top of spacer)
Reasoning:
a. Having all your lines moving in parallel lines really dresses it up.
b. Handles should drop at the butt. Yours is rotated such that (along with the blade spine) there is a "dip" at the guard. Not as strong/striking in design/appearance. Also makes the guard seem "off angle".
c. The tip is a bit low (relative to the blade). I like the tall belly...but a higher tip would look better
The overall dimensions are fine. 4.5" for handle is perfect.
The blade on my redesign is about 2" tall - a good bowie size.
Wow Dan, that's very comprehensive! Thanks for the explanations as well. Very helpful.
How can a guy turn down an offer like that?!? I'd really appreciate it!
-d
Yup, even my wife agrees that the second one looks better. This process is exactly the reason I asked all of you folks!
Thanks again!
-d
Well, odds are I'll be working on forging this one out this afternoon or tomorrow. I'm on a bit of a schedule and need to have this one done by May 19th for my blacksmith guild's knifemaking contest. At the rate I move It'll be a miracle if this one gets done. It'll be even more of a miracle if it looks like the design at all.
-d
fitzo
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2001
- Messages
- 6,648
Make yourself a quick profile template out of plywood or something to keep by the anvil so you can match proportions.
In case you don't know this trick, keep a stout hunk of hardwood (firewood) around to force the blade back into shape as it distorts from beveling. People call them "whackers" or "thwackers" and they work well to keep profiles intact gently.
Fisk showed a trick some years back of using a wedge of wood on the anvil along with your thwacker to get the profile adjusted to just the right angle when adjusting the clip, too.
In case you don't know this trick, keep a stout hunk of hardwood (firewood) around to force the blade back into shape as it distorts from beveling. People call them "whackers" or "thwackers" and they work well to keep profiles intact gently.
Fisk showed a trick some years back of using a wedge of wood on the anvil along with your thwacker to get the profile adjusted to just the right angle when adjusting the clip, too.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2006
- Messages
- 2,280
Its starting to look good to me. Just a bit more work and it will be there. A+--------------:thumbup:
Allan Molstad
Banned
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2007
- Messages
- 901
Im not a fan of the dropped-edge choil concept on a knife meant for any use other than for cooking.
I just think it's more trouble than it's worth and will only lead to snagging whatever you attempt to cut.
I think a far better design is to have the cutting edge flow into the flattened ricasso infront of the guard.
The flat ricasso still allows a finger placement, but with no dropped edge the knife will not always snag on you.
I just think it's more trouble than it's worth and will only lead to snagging whatever you attempt to cut.
I think a far better design is to have the cutting edge flow into the flattened ricasso infront of the guard.
The flat ricasso still allows a finger placement, but with no dropped edge the knife will not always snag on you.
A wedge of wood? A half-round would make sense to me, but I'm trying to picture how you'd use a wedge on the anvil...Can you clarify that a bit Fitzo?
-d
fitzo
Gold Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2001
- Messages
- 6,648
deker, I suppose a block radiused to your clip form would be fine, too. The point with the wedge is that you cut it at the specific angle you want the clip to be when you finish the blade. This often needs frequent readjustment as you forge bevels and such. Make the "wedge" (or desired shape) look like a right triangle, hypotenuse up. Butt it up against a stub in your hardy so it won't skitter. Lay the blade on the spine, the clip over the wedge. Smack on it with your thwacker to maneuver everything into conformation. This is just a way of using wood to avoid steel hammers and swages that may distort the target steel. A finishing step, so to speak, or a mild way to adjust things.
Did i make that even halfway clear???
I could show you in 30 seconds what I can't write clearly in 5 minutes. LOL There used to be a tutorial online but I can't find it. Perhaps someone else still has a link.
Did i make that even halfway clear???
I could show you in 30 seconds what I can't write clearly in 5 minutes. LOL There used to be a tutorial online but I can't find it. Perhaps someone else still has a link.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
- Messages
- 6,212
interesting deker before i make way im goigtno chop some too
Did i make that even halfway clear???
That makes absolute sense to me. I was taught to fix the clip over the horn of the anvil, and it's one of my least favorite parts of forging. I think this may help me "get it right" without all the cussin' and throwin' stuff
butcher_block said:
Have at it! Let's see what you come up with.
-d
Well, I got some practice forging in at least. Here's the recurve design forged out of some 1084. I raised the point a bit in line with Dan's suggestion. I know now that I definitely don't have enough meat in the billet for this project for this large a piece. I can probably work 11-12" OAL with the billet I have. On this one, I got the blade done and then stopped short of drawing out the tang. It's looking a little "tactical" so it may get a full tang finish...I'm just not sure yet so I figured I'd come in and make dinner instead
So, what do you folks think?
-d
So, what do you folks think?
-d
We're getting there it seems, I know what you mean about dinner, Just came in after finishing a pocket-hawk and armed with a chinese, never felt sexier, lol...I also stole one of my sisters lagers..ain't drank lager for a good 20 months...tastes goooood.
Btw, Is the guard going to be 1084 from the same billet or what?
Btw, Is the guard going to be 1084 from the same billet or what?
20 months without a lager! Please say that's just because you've been drinking stout!
Well, this one will either have a forged integral guard if I go with a full-tang or a mild steel or wrought iron guard if I go with a stick tang. I'm just not sure yet.
The one I started this thread for is a special case. It's for my blacksmith guild's knifemaking contest that we have at our yearly hammer-in. This year's theme is "recycled materials". The rules state the blade and handle material must be recycled. So, the billet I made is from banding strap and bandsaw blade sandwitched between a piece of railroad track spring and half of an old file. It's a 328 layer twist pattern. The handle material will be some apple wood from my firewood pile, and the fittings will be wrought iron. I'm taking my time with this one since I'm out of recycled materials and the contest is only a few weeks away.
-d