Bowie Sheaths - Types / Styles / Opinions?

J. Keeton

J. Keeton

Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
1,209
So I just finished up a new Bowie and decided to embark on a sheath for it... this construction is foreign to me. To this point I've focused on pouch sheaths for guard-less knives.



Naturally I jumped into some research and I watch Paul Long's video "Advanced Blade Sheaths." The video was great, but I wish he would of gone further into the template and design on the demonstration sheath. I think I can get the dimensions right, but I'm debating now what style sheath I want to make for this knife.

The sheath he made was beltloop-less with a stud on the front. I've seen this design frequently and always wondered if it's desirable from the buyer's perspective? It seems like a good style for a "safe queen" / "art knife"; however in use I'm wondering how much utility it has? My impression is that to use a sheath like this it needs to have a custom frog made or be tucked into the users belt; is this right?

Paul Long's Video Demo Sheath:


example of frog:



Due to the complexity of these sheaths for guarded knives, I'd actually like to start with this design, but was just wondering on the desirability and utility of it.

Open to any and all thoughts on the topic!

Cheers,
James
 
You can easily add a belt loop to Paul's design and I believe he briefly shows a pattern with one in his video. A frog on the basic design is also a good option and is common. His design is intended to be slipped into a belt were the stud acts as a stop. In theory, gamblers carried them in that manner for some reason.
Personally, I have found sheaths for knives with a double guard to be easier to make and fit than other types because you have a firm stop and only need to worry about welt thickness to get a snug fit.
Frankly, I don't think many people carry bowies around, particularly one as nice as yours, so the sheath is more eye candy than necessity.
Randy
 
Robber58 said:
You can easily add a belt loop to Paul's design and I believe he briefly shows a pattern with one in his video. A frog on the basic design is also a good option and is common. His design is intended to be slipped into a belt were the stud acts as a stop. In theory, gamblers carried them in that manner for some reason.
Personally, I have found sheaths for knives with a double guard to be easier to make and fit than other types because you have a firm stop and only need to worry about welt thickness to get a snug fit.
Frankly, I don't think many people carry bowies around, particularly one as nice as yours, so the sheath is more eye candy than necessity.
Randy
Click to expand...
Thanks for your response and thoughts! I did see the belt loop version shown for a few seconds in the video. Looked awesome, but the complexity seems significantly higher for my first go. I am getting a little deep in the rabbit hole though... just bought some stingray inlay and a leather splitter..... 😅
 
Side question: On yall's templates, how far do you space the welt off the edge and spine? I was thinking 1/16th to 3/32 of an inch.

I'm guessing the answer to the above question is dependent on the thickness of the knife? If my knife at the ricasso is 0.187'' and my leather is 0.125'' then a slightly larger offset from the edge/spine to welt could allow for it to squeeze in?

Lol, I wish there were some formulas for this! hahaha
 
J. Keeton said:
Side question: On yall's templates, how far do you space the welt off the edge and spine? I was thinking 1/16th to 3/32 of an inch.

I'm guessing the answer to the above question is dependent on the thickness of the knife? If my knife at the ricasso is 0.187'' and my leather is 0.125'' then a slightly larger offset from the edge/spine to welt could allow for it to squeeze in?

Lol, I wish there were some formulas for this! hahaha
Click to expand...
I use about 1/16 or a bit less. I just estimate it and draw it in by hand. No need to agonize over that on this type of sheath. I don't believe that amount of difference in thickness will affect the gap much. I only run into problems with that when making sheaths that require inserting a significant portion of the handle in. That will begin to pull things in. Knifemakers tend to put more constraints on leather than leather workers since they come from dealing with very precise fits on handles, guards and scales. I do both and have learned that leather is way more forgiving and relaxing to work with.
Watch that stingray. It will deflect needles and ruin leather knives.
Randy
 
Robber58 said:
I use about 1/16 or a bit less. I just estimate it and draw it in by hand. No need to agonize over that on this type of sheath. I don't believe that amount of difference in thickness will affect the gap much. I only run into problems with that when making sheaths that require inserting a significant portion of the handle in. That will begin to pull things in. Knifemakers tend to put more constraints on leather than leather workers since they come from dealing with very precise fits on handles, guards and scales. I do both and have learned that leather is way more forgiving and relaxing to work with.
Watch that stingray. It will deflect needles and ruin leather knives.
Randy
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips Randy!
 

Regardless of material, the frog style sheath is very comfortable for a large knife, concealed or otherwise.
The frog stud or post can be purchased at Tandy leather. Various sizes and styles are available, not very exspensive.
 
Man with no name said:

Regardless of material, the frog style sheath is very comfortable for a large knife, concealed or otherwise.
The frog stud or post can be purchased at Tandy leather. Various sizes and styles are available, not very expensive.
Click to expand...
Daymn, can't argue with that. Pretty slick!
 
I really underthink the whole thing on this type of sheath. I cut a straight line on my leather and flip it over rough side up. I then place the knife on the leather with the guard butting up against the straight edge and the blade pointing to the left and the edge up. I trace around the blade with a pencil and then am done with the blade till the sheath is finished. Take my dividers and set them at 1/2". I add a half inch to the top and bottom of my blade shape running the lines out at the tip so they intersect and then cut it out. Flip it over and draw an oversize back piece.Edge side is welt and top side not unless a really thick blade, 1/4" plus, otherwise nothing. I don't adjust leather thickness at all, leather is 8/10 oz. Although on the shields on the front I might use a lighter leather. If there is gonna be a frog that fastens on the stud I use 8/10 for the shields. Only templates that I have for this type of sheath are the shields. As described yields a r/h type sheath whether with stud or with frog. The stud only type sheath I hear referred to as a sash sheath. This clearance when cutting also yields a sheath that the knife stays put in, great retention. I have many customers that carry them horseback. Should be mentioned that my stitching groover is set at 1/4" and that would make a difference regarding fit.

Just for info I make kitchen knife sheaths the exact same way, what I call a Slip Sheath. A great friction fit.


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Really the only difference is no shields and no stud. A guy had me make up a bunch of Green River blanks for his kids and grand kids for Christmas one time:

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The last bowie I did went to Norway, here with a box of other Christmas goodies, this one had a frog and a bowtie:

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My customer wanted a regular sash sheath as well as one with a frog and a bowtie:

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Ya get the idea.
 
Getting started on my end:



Note1 - I cut two pieces longer then they needed to be so I can hold on to something when splitting...
Note2 - the back piece needed to be flipped long ways and re-cut... douhhhh


---------------
Horsewright Horsewright thank you for the description and pictures! Amazing work as always! I actually cut out two different welts... one from 0.125 (8oz) leather and the other 0.156 (10oz)... my blade has a ricasso of 0.167... On my template I spaced the welt out 1/16th from the edge and spine... I'm thinking the 10oz is the way to go? The only reason I ask is because I don't want it to be super loose... maybe the 8oz is the right call and it can stretch in there?

Cheers,
James

PS: I ordered some Barge thinner... since my barge has gotten really thick. I won't be in till Tuesday so I was thinking of using acetone on a small batch of it.... Not sure if this will work... I have these other items on hand currently (turpentine / paint thinner / paint stripper / brush cleaner / alcohol). Will report back.
 
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Not bad for my first inlay attempt I think... I messed up and didn't follow Paul's directions.. I should have split this piece... big step down to the inlay even though I have a backing/spacer piece pushing it up. You can really see the step in the chevron, which isn't great... but I'm going to continue with this.

 
Horsewright said:
Snug is always a lil better as a guy can always stretch a bit. That point on your shield will lift during life. Anyway to artfully round it hair?
Click to expand...

Ahhh good point... ;)
I should have thought of that... I think that ship may have sailed.. not sure how I'd modify it and not damage what's under.
 
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