Box Elder Burl Fighter w/ Leather Sheath

When I saw a thread started by Dave Kelly I almost sprained my wrist trying to get the mouse moving faster and clicking to see what great stuff I'd see! EVERY and ALL Dave Kelly stuff I've ever seen is done darn near to perfection! Same here: blade profile, grind and finish; wood selection, sculpting and finish; hardware fit and finish; leather work; photography...everything! Dave if you don't mind my asking, what oxidizer and process(es) did you use to patina the silicon bronze? All the best, Phil
 
Thanks you guys!!

Can't believe you still have that knife (and 2 1/2 sheaths) Joe, that was the first knife of this fighters design.

Dave if you don't mind my asking, what oxidizer and process(es) did you use to patina the silicon bronze?

Hi Phil,
Here's the way I do it now, I may find or find out about a better method later.


List of tools and materials used;

*CAUTION* Chemicals used are acidic, wear protective clothing, gloves, goggles, respirator and good ventilation.

Metal etch, you can use a mild sulfuric or phosphoric acid or use a product named Metal Etch by Jasco

Antique patina, I purchase from Reactive Metals Studio http://www.reactivemetals.com/ they carry other useful products and some good reading also

Cotton applicators, I use thin round cotton applicators I buy from the pharmacy, I think they're used for applying make-up.

Fine Fibral wool, a non metallic abrasive wool. The brand I use is no longer made but Superior Abrasives sells I believe the exact same product called Shur Brite Wool

Polishing paper, I use 3M polishing paper in 1200, 4000 and 6000 grits

Mineral oil and/or wax, I'll use mineral oil if the rest of the handle is stag (oil is good for the stag also) and Renaissance wax if the handle is wood



My current method;

1) After shaping the bronze bring finish to almost mirror (no visible sandpaper scratches), I'll use the 3M polishing papers with firm backing so I don't deform the shape.

2) Etch the surface of the bronze with the mild acid, (around 5% solution), visibly all this should do is dull the finish giving the patina a better bite.

3) Apply patina with cotton applicator, I use a diluted solution, 3 parts distilled water - 1 part patina. Keep rubbing the patina on until you reach a consistent, desired color.

4) Using the fine fibral wool rub the bronze until you stop removing the patina, it'll probably look blotchy. Apply more patina then rub again with the wool, less patina should now be coming off. I'll repeat this until no patina rubs off, usually 3 - 4 times.

5) Apply wax or oil, if my handle is wood I'll apply a few coats of Renn. wax, if my handle is stag I'll apply the mineral oil on the whole handle, it protects the patina and keeps the stag from drying out....plus it looks good!, no matter what the handle material use the wax on the bronze if you prefer

6) Start a new knife


Thanks again,
Dave
 
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This is a great one , Dave.

The guard turned out very well, the flare goes nicely with the sculpting, and the bronze patina is lovely.

John
 
Dave, THANKS so much for the extensive reply! That had to take you some time to think out and type up. I really appreciate it. Cool link too. I enjoyed reading about using daikon radish in one of the patina processes for mokume with silver in it. I used to grow a fair amount of daikon. Little did I know it could find its way into a metallurgical application. Aloha, Phil
 
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