Brass/Bronze Cast

[Aware]

I appologise if I have violated any rules submitting this thread, but was unsure where I should post it.


I would like to know if there is anyone here who has succsessfully cast bronze or brass knife/sword furniture, be it lost-wax or sand;
I recently decided that I would dress an Iron blade which recently helped me experiment with a simple charcoal forge and a cornerstone disguised as an anvil, lol;


I know, I know, Iron?!?! why?! Because I just had to experiment on something cheap and locally available,I promise you I shall get some 01 asap;

?!No anvil?!?! I've just been given a 25lb+- tinsmiths one, and picking up a 200+ lb london pattern one tommorow. So please don't judge me just yet.


Well, rather than going ahead with the wrought iron guard/pommel I had in mind, I figure, Why not get it cast to deliver a contrast to an otherwise monotomous theme.
Also being my first ''knife'' I wish at least to have it on a shelf or put to some use, rather than discard....something about not using powertools and 30 hours filing the damned thing,perhaps

Although I can not negotiate this immediately, for the next two weeks wages are for my new anvil and one hundred salvaged firebricks n a few slabs of A1.

I would be happy to send a .Bmp of the desired design, to anyone who feels competent to challenge this mysterious request, I don't want to post a public picture because I feel someone may steal the style If I cannot myself realize it..... I know I'd ''borrow'' it if you guys posted it.heh

Much appreciated,
Aware.

 

[grease-man]

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction, however, if you are new to bladesmithing/knifemaking and plan on forging, I'd avoid O-1 and A-1 for the time being. O-1 is not as forgiving as some people make it out to be. It's never forgiven me, not even once! The air hardening steels have a narrower temp range to forge in. O-1 will make a fine knife, but the heat treat has to be done correctly with the proper soak time at temp. Starting off you may be better off with simple carbon steels like 1084, 1080, 1075 etc. They forge well and the heat treat is less touchy. You could, of course, send the blade out for heat treatment. I wish you the best of luck! -Matt-

 

[Aware]

Thanks Grease-Man,
I'm only going for 0-1 because its the only tool steel I can find on ebay right now, and in 18" x 6" billets, It's a great price, though I must confess, I'm going to have to try out some wire-cable ''damascus'' till I feel confident folding and fire welding, I experimented with a strip of stainless (The handle from one of my Mother's kitchen cupboards,hehe) the other day when I was bored,it did weld, though to what degree of success, I'll never know, But considering I'm firing the charcoal forge with a four litre double shot pump, intended for my white-water raft, I'm very pleased
I need to get a few fullering tools and/or a cross pien hammer though,so I'm able to bring the bar out to length again;
on the subject, I'm surprised how many artisans here appear to grind away hammer signatures, Have you ever know anyone to use panel beaters/coachworking hammers? They look like they could deliver precise blows, and at around $10 for a 7-piece set, mighty tempting,

Last question (so many ! lol) ... Any ideas what crowbars/wrecking bars are made from, I saw them and thought *that'll make a nice HD chopper with a knurled grip...*

I'm now looking at things which may serve a different purpose, and though I read somewhere on here, a member warn us that, file-working honeymoons usually result in scrolled table edges,chairs etc, lol, but I'm trying to contain myself, though I just had to chop a pine chair in half the other day,hehehe