Brass tube removal/ DIY Micarta handle replacement thread

Thanks for posting this. Have been meaning to research it myself. I have etched and stripped a couple. I would like to remove the handles on the next one.
 
A location to purchase various torx bolts and other fasteners would be ideal too. I would love to find titanium torx bolts.
 
I haven't attempted this yet, but when I do it will be with a drill press. Mine is just the cheapo Harbor Freight model. A decent hand drill can probably get the job done, but knowing me I'd ding up the scales.

I eventually want to add liners to my Jackmandu, but have been short on project time lately and still need to pick up an arbor press to install new tubes. I get the convenience of torx hardware, but prefer the look of flared tubes on my 'kin.

Imagine AKS or USA knifemaker would have all the stuff.
 
Are the scales glued/epoxied on before the tubes are flared?
 
The scales are not usually glued/epoxied based on what I have seen in others posts on scale removal, and based on some minor scale shifting on a knife or 2 after baton work - although that may just be bad hitting. Someone who has removed a lot of scales would have to confirm.

This is a timely post as I have some micarta blocks I want to make some scales out of and replace with torx or the like. My main question is how to know which "depth" of bolts to buy so it gets nice and tight.

Also - If I were to go the tube replacement route, how do I know how to measure the tube lengths to ensure the same thing (assuming the tubes come in lengths to be cut down). Or if they make standard tube sets for this purpose, how to guage tube length for different handle types, mag v non-mag, hand sanded by me, or from the shop etc...assuming there is a bit of a science and an art in getting both the correct tube length and torx/sex bolt depth etc...

I do not have a press although I have access to one. And I think I would also trust myself with that first!

Anyone have good success using a hand held drill motor?

C
 
Be careful when drilling handle tubes. There’s a tragic story here somewhere on this forum about a guy who let a knife get away while drilling on a workbench slashing his stomach several times before he could stop it. I always face the cutting edge of the blade in the Counter clockwise direction while drilling just in case. The first time I met Jerry he recommended always dulling the edge to make it safer. This didn’t really make sense to me at first! but it was before I realized how easily INFI could be resharpened.
 
For the common tubes on Busse 3/16" drill bit will remove the tube. Flaring dies are available at "USAKnifemaers"...Chuck at Alpha Knife Supply doesn't carry the flaring dies. A threaded connector to fit the diameter of the holes in the tang is required for Torx Screws.
 
drift draft said:
Be careful when drilling handle tubes. There’s a tragic story here somewhere on this forum about a guy who let a knife get away while drilling on a workbench slashing his stomach several times before he could stop it. I always face the cutting edge of the blade in the Counter clockwise direction while drilling just in case. The first time I met Jerry he recommended always dulling the edge to make it safer. This didn’t really make sense to me at first! but it was before I realized how easily INFI could be resharpened.
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One thing I do is clamp the blade to the drill press table or in a vise because the bit will most likely want to stop during drilling and the drill will keep what ever the bit is stuck to spinning like a helicopter!!! Bad Bad Bad accidents:eek:
 
So far I have removed 1 of 5 tubes out of my Short Butaniku with only patience and a hand held drill. These brass tubes are "Butt-Holes" to say the least.
 
Ryker said:
How likely is the tube itself to spin in the handle?
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With a sharp drill bit not likely to spin unless you just "Dwell" at the initial drill entry and don't continue to cut the flare clean from the tube as quickly as possible. This is the scenario where the drill bit gets stuck on a lip of material and starts the helicopter effect!!!
 
They are not brass, they are stainless steel. A lot tougher than brass. Maybe they used to be brass once, IDK. Anyway, please go slowly :)
 
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