Brazing or Silver brazing tutorial???

M

Michael Bennett

Joined
Mar 2, 1999
Messages
666
I'm looking into learning about brazing. Specifically, what tools (ie, torches, etc.) would I need? Does propane work? Oxy-propane? MAPP? Acetylene?

Also, I understand it is a much stronger joint, being made at 800+ degrees F, than regular solder or silver solder and is used for securing threaded rod onto tangs. What's your opinion?

What other things would I or should I use? Fluxes or brazing rod? Can anyone recommend a good tutorial, book, class, etc?

Thanks!

Mike
 
My understanding is that it is an exceptionally strong joint, far stronger than a knife would require, and thus an excellent choice for same. I'd like to know "how to" also. It was mentioned here not long ago, but no specific details that I know of.
 
It sounds like it would work great, as for threaded tangs I've found it awfully easy just to draw the tang out a little longer and round the end on the anvil. I have a steel plate with a 1/4" and 3/16" holes drilled in it and when I get the tang rounded to close to the size I want, I heat to bright orange and hammer the tang into the hole over my hardy hole. You might need to dress it a little, later on the grinder, just before you thread. But this way you don't have to worry about any joint. Of course, doing your tangs this way you need to forge the tang out first and then the blade, but thats the way I do all my blade forging so its no biggy to me. Just my 2 cents.

Bill
 
I have been using a Oxy/Propane torch (Home Depot, kit cost like $50) to do my brazing, but I am already looking at alternatives. Oxy cylinders cost like $8 each and run out in about 15 minutes.

I have tried plain Propane and MAPP but had no luck, I think it needs the kick of Oxy to get enough temp in a small enough flame. (Or maybe I am just impatient.)

I use the flux coated rods, and simply heat the area I want to braze, tapping with the rod periodically until the rod starts to "stick" just a bit. Once I get a bit of "sticky" going on I begin working the rod under the flame to spread the flux and on whatever I am brazing. Keep it up until the brass/bronze starts to melt and it will flow kind of like solder from that point.

I have never been trained in it, so there may well be a better way.
 
I use silver braze(hard solder)(works about 1400 degrees, regular brazing is done about 1800 degrees) and I heat with propane. The material is a little pricy, but a little goes a long way. My tang extentions are 3/16 round, I mate the pieces, then flux them put a 1/8 inch long piece of solder on the joint, heat untill the metal flows. I did 2 saturday and the hot work took 15 min. (with a oxy - acceteline rig it would have taken about 30 seconds each) but it can be done with propane.

I hope this is helpful
Eric


you can get it from www.Mcmaster-carr.com look up silver solder I got a coil of the extra strong alloy, but you can now get a smaller amount.
 
Actually I harbored the same questions. Without being properly trained in welding/brazing, I found i was wasting materials and I really didn't know what I was doing. I decided this summer to do something about it. I checked with my local area vocational technical school and found that they offer individual welding courses for $60 (this includes all the gas and oxy you can burn). Now that I am over half way though the course, I am better educated as to what set up I should buy for my intended purposes. Actually brazing is the joining of metal through a capillary melting action. the silver brazing would be more than sufficient for the tang work. My instructor even indicated that with patience, the MAPP/oxy set up would deliver.But then the start up costs of oxy/acetelene would be more than the cannisters of oxygen alone. Once informed the choices are better made. my two cents worth.--Dan:cool: :cool:
 
I buy 1625 degree bronze brazing rods at the hardware store for $.45 each in 3 ft length. I use a propane torch burning mapp gas and 20 mule team borax for flux(just dip all the parts in water then in the box of borax) I flatten the rods to about .010" (thinner is better) with a hammer then cut small peices and place them in or on the joint. I give each piece a couple of quick file strokes just before putting it all together.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top