Breaking Taps like a .... BOSS!

Brian Avila said:
No idea what a spiral point tap is.
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The are sometimes called gun taps since they shoot the chips forward and don't require backing out as hand taps do. If you don't reverse a hand tap to break the chip, you can break the tap. I use spiral point taps in a Procunier tapping head under power and all goes smoothly. I am not tapping with the sizes you are though. Check out the spiral point taps, I think you will find them super nice. Use your drill press as a tap guide with a spiral point tap to make a bit easier as well. Not under power though. My Jacobs 16n Chuck has 3/8" Chuck key holes, so a 3/8" piece of stock will allow me to drive the tap by hand and not under power. Hope this helps.
 
Brian Avila said:
I purchased it as hss from Enco. I drilled the hole. Debured it. Used tapping fluid, tap magic, used my hand tap handle. It was straight but seemed to be really really tight. I have tapped a lot of holes by hand and didn't really have problems till this one.
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Let's see the order number for the exact tap


If it's a hand tap, it it a taper tap ?

Use spiral point machine taps instead, they have to withstand the twisting action of machine tapping

drill a bch larger not 70% thread engagement because the Ti is a bit gummy sticky / closes up after the hole is drilled.

#46 would do just fine


You're probably not tapping straight
Put the tap in the drill press chuck, turn it by hand as you feed down

Get one of these, you will wear out a tap before you break it
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=8428564&PMAKA=291-5006




http://www.knifehelp.net/media/docs...d Construction of the Liner-Locked Folder.pdf
 
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Okay well here is what I have found after hand tapping thousands, yes I said thousands of holes mostly in titanium about .060 thick. I do the one size larger drill bit size and also have a simple inexpensive maybe $20 tap holder with a shaft that is in the top. You place the rod in your drill press, it gives the tap holder alignment but the handle spins free. I believe Midwest knifemakers supply sells one type and KBC has a little developed one for less that $25 I use mostly 0 X 80 screws with 2X 56 frequently . The 2 X 56 I still do by hand but I now have an automatic taping machine I use for the 0 X 80 screws. These are thread cutter type taps and I some can be absolutely junk. I decided to try a " new" brand today. Just one hole and a half and the 2X 56 new tap was binding back and forth didn't matter nor did lots of some great tapping fluid I use on all my holes. Trying to tap holes without a drill press fixture is saying I won't be able to tap for 0 X 80 screws because they will all break and if you are managing getting 2 X 56 threads cut, Mr. you are doing very well. With respect to all who are doing it the hard way and didn't know better but are trying to help. Frank
 
Brian Avila said:
Wish I had a tapmatic. Don't see them for $125 ever.
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Well, it does require a bit of diligence. I think it took me about a month of checking twice a day until I came up with mine. There is one for auction right now and it is sitting at $100. After getting mine, I honestly think they are worth the cost even at full retail. The clone that the count linked to is a great choice because it has a JT33 taper which is the same taper on many of the small benchtop drill presses. For around $500 you can have a killer, dedicated tapping setup that you can pay for with one knife sale. I have a pretty well equipped shop at this point but for me, money spent on vastly improved efficiency or on safety are always good investments.

Bob
 
Well, my knives are not in high demand. And they don't really sell so. It is all by hand now.
 
+1 to bigger holes for Ti
+1 for using a drill press without the motor
+1 for never using hand taps again, the spiral taps are SO much better.

Ooh, I never thought of reversing the spring. That should work nicely!
 
Brian Avila said:
I hear forming taps are better as well
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Form taps must be used with a power tapping mechanism. The pressure on the threads combined with the torque of starting and stopping each time you turn the wrench or drill chuck will quickly snap some costly taps. Form taps are effective because of the speed at which they are designed to operate.

Bob
 
RangerBobTX said:
I've broken enough taps in my life to know that hand tapping 0-80 and 2-56 threads was not going to be an option when I started making folders. I picked up a used Tapmatic 30x on Ebay for $125. I had to buy an appropriate collet for it which was about $23 from Enco and I have not had a broken tap in 50+ holes in Ti. Huge time savings also! I've been running it in my mill but I'm now on the lookout for another drill press that I will dedicate to the Tapmatic.

Most tap drill recommendations are for 70% threads but they are all just recommendations. You can adjust the minor diameter to suit the material and the need.

Bob
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Bob, do you remember which collet that was that you got from Enco? I'm in the same boat myself.
 
Brian,
This happens to everyone when learning machining skills and is the cost of experience, it's part of paying you're dues. I almost exclusively use 1-72 screws on my folders and hand tapped holes for over 10 years till I bought a tapmatic. I usually go 1-2 drill sizes over what the drill chart calls for. If your hole is .004 larger that is only .002 on each side of the hole which is not much.

Wait till you decide to tap .160 titanium, that is when the fun starts!!!
 
I bought a JSNY self reversing tapping head NEW for $258 several months ago. I use it for 0 X 80 screws. I broke 1 tap on start up but have not broken any since I change the tap when I see it is starting to fail. Yes I have a drill press set up for only its use. I see that Midwest Knifemakers Supply has that "piloted tap wrench" for sale at $14.13 that works in your drill press And I have used to do hundreds, ( yah just hundreds with this one) before I moved to another. It requires turning by hand and of course the amount of force required to turn it should tell you before the tap fails. To see some of my work, you can go to the Custom Knife Gallery of Colorado. Frank
 
If I can get the folders to work I will probably buy a tapmatic thingy, if I can sell the prototypes of the folders.

But my machinist/gun builder friend uses something similar to that pilot tap wrench in his shop so I just made something like that and will test that out with my drill press.

I will have to test this out when I get more taps. because I broke everything.

-brian-
 
A spiral point is used to drill a through hole and has a longer lead. A bottom tap is used for blind hole and has less lead. Was your drill sharp? It could have walked a little bit. You should also make sure that you use a small center drill to land leave plenty of chamfer so that after drilling there is enough chamfer to start your tap.
Brian Avila said:
No idea what a spiral point tap is.
Click to expand...
 
A lot of makers with self reversing taping machines will tell you not to try doing 0 X 80 screw holes since you are apt to break every tap you try. Not true if the machine is any good and you have a rubber collet for it. Unless you are going to make lots of folders or your hand and wrist are getting weaker the hand turning tap in the drill press does a great job. Maybe save your money to get a surface grinder which you may be much more in need of. Frank
 
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