BRKT pros.....help me ID this blade!

Les

Les

Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
432
I have wanted to obtain a BRKT blade to try out for some time now. I found what I honestly believe is a GREAT deal on a Limited Edition blade from WRT right here! Wow!

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621749
Post #2.....

Can anyone help me ID the model, type of steel and the grind?

I am ready to use it! I've a small Dozier collection, and I have read stellar reviews of the BRKT products as well. I am VERY happy today!:D
 
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That is a BRK&T E.L.K. (Essential little Knife).

A non-typical Barkie,

…440C, hollow ground, convex edge, tapered tang, the first inch of the blade tapers to a fine point.




"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
I thought it might be an ELK!
Thanks Mike!


Anyone with an ELK care to tell us how theirs performs, if it is as strong as A2 or if you have changed or modified it?

Would anyone recommend changing the convex edge to a traditional beveled edge, or is the convex edge coupled with the hollow grind a good cutting combo?
 
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The ELK is a great little knife, a very efficient edge slicer with a great point for fine work.

I like the edge on mine, stays sharp and sharpens up without much work.

I like to combo mine with a bigger full convex knife, finding that combination will handle most tasks I encounter in to woods.

Not a bad little hunting knife either.


I also like it as a EDC knife for around town or at the office.




"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
I believe the E.L.K. was one of the first, if not the first, stainless steel model offered by Bark River. If memory serves, it was hollow ground, which also makes it different from most barkies.

It's a nice little knife, very strong.
 
Thanks for the info, guys!
I know 440C is a great steel. It will see harsh conditions both salt water and freshwater.
Should I leave it convexed? 99% of what I sharpen is conventional edges on DMT stones, but Siguy lives nearby!

Simon, E-mail sent!
 
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IMHO, convex edges are the easiest to maintain.

Most all of my knives have been converted to convex.

Don’t be concerned about convex sharpening, with a little practice (or help from Simon) you’ll be an expert in no time.





"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
Mike, I'm not worried about a convex edge on a convex grind.
I'm wondering about a convex edge on a hollow grind. Is that too thin for hard work like batoning?
 
hollows arent quite the best for batoning. the will work well, it is just harder to get them started in the wood. a convex edge is generally tougher than an edge that youd put on with dmt stones, so i would go the convex route. siguy should be able to set you up there.
 
Les said:
Mike, I'm not worried about a convex edge on a convex grind.
I'm wondering about a convex edge on a hollow grind. Is that too thin for hard work like batoning?
Click to expand...


I agree with BF that leaving the convex edge intact will provide the strongest edge.

As to baton work, though the spine is fairly thick, the hollow ground blade is only 3” long with a thin point, it would not be a knife I would choose for any heavy duty batoning.

But the knife is a great slicer and works well whittling and notching.





"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
I'm an axe/hatchet user. So, I'll probably treat this ELK like I do my Doziers (but leave the convex edge).
I'll bet the 440C is very weather resistant.
 
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